Quick question and some advice needed on my D15 II.  Per the pic below, my 3 pt arms are not level.  I'm assuming I need to remove one and "clock" it accordingly.  Looks like I will need to pull the fender to get some room but what will I need to get the arm off?  Any recommendations on type and size of puller?  Plan on using heat?

I’d guess the right side has been moved.

The tractor is 4 hrs away on my farm and it will be a couple of weekends till I get there to work with it.  I'll get some more pics for you all to help analyze but in the meantime I'll plan for the worse.  I've only recently acquired the tractor so not sure what happened previously to create this situation.  

At the end of the day, this is a hobby tractor for a hobby farm.  Plan was to utilize this tractor for brush hogging and misc chores.  This tractor also helped me round out my "D" collection (D10/D15/D17/D19) and with a recent engine rebuild and freshening up, I'm not wanting to give up on it.    

 Have one D17 that somebody set the lift arms up one spline, raises everything up higher for sure. Don't remember it causing any problems set that way. 

 Just looked at a D14 book and shows the lift shafts are 2 piece and pinned inside so they are not able to be one spline off. So, it is either one arm set one spline off outside the housing, or the shaft twisted. So then comes the question, which shaft?

Good Luck

Not saying I believe it lol just a thought 

I'm thinking the right one has to be 'reclocked',as the left is the lowest one.

Before removing the HEAVY,AWKWARD section of 'rockshaft', I suggest trying to push the arm off by installing a series of 'wedges' between the arm and the casing. I'd hate to read that you whacked the arm once too hard and broke it.

Sad thing is I have a 'long armed slap hammer puller' here that might actually get the arm off

I've done the 'wedge from behind' on PITA small engine crankshaft pulleys that have 'magically, rust welded' onto the 1" crankshaft.

for sure clean the 'exit side' of the splines real good,get RID of ALL paint and crud in the grooves,maybe file them done a bit ,'dress'.

The more tools you take the better !Odds are if you take 90% of your garage up there, the arm will  come off in the first 5 minutes....leaving you wondering 'WHY, did I bring all this stuff ? '

Remove PTO shaft.

Inspect shafts for twisting.

Inspect ram coupler for damage.

That difference is less than one spline.

dang, I need to see which shaft IS twisted !!

 even though there's adjustable arms, won't it lift 'funny' as the ends of the arms are at different 'clocks' ? One of those 'gotta see it ,to understand' things....

BTW wife says you can have a rockshaft off one of my D-14s, if you take the WHOLE tractor.....

This has been quite the discussion and boy am I learning from you all...much appreciated!  I looked through my photos and happened to find this one which shows the arms from another angle.  They don't look like they have been touched before.  

I did remove the adjusters and brought those back home with me to clean them up as they wouldn't turn very well.  They work great now so when I'm back up, I can put them on and try to adjust accordingly.   

The LEFT (p/n 70227791) and RIGHT (p/n 70227792) are the same for D14s and D15s.

They are different lengths due to the Crank being offset to clear the ring gear.

Each shaft is drilled for a roll-pin; as is the Crank to match.

It appears from the shaft drawings that there are 15 or 16 splines on both ends.

For production purposes, these would all be clocked the same; otherwise there would be a never ending problem.

If at 16 deg, one spline would change the "clocking" by 22.5 deg

That's a lot of movement at the end of the lift arm.

The OP could measure his tractor's lift assembly as did AC720Man to see if the difference is that great.  If someone knows the exact count of splines and the distance from the center of a lift shaft to the center of the bolt that AC720Man is referring to, we can calculate what a one-spline index change would make.

This view makes it look not nearly as bad as the first picture posted.

One thing the OP could do is use a carpenter's square and straight piece of something to check the height of the arms.  Check from both directions.

Another thought..... if the broached splines on the arms are not clocked the same, that might cause the difference. But again, this would not likely be the case in production.

Looks like the arm has been whacked on the upper corner inside part of right lift arm.

Wonder if spline orientation is the same from the left side to the right side...?

You can remove fender and use a large puller like above to remove arm. This style puller can be set up as a 2 or 3 jaw. Clean up internal and external splines good with a wire brush and reassemble with anti-seize compound.  

I agree with steve(ill).  Looks like 16 spline shaft = 22.5 degrees per spline. If you move the arm one spline and the arm is 15" -16" long, the end of the arm would move 5-6". Way too much to fix your issue. So something has to be bent or twisted. I would crank on the lift adjustments to dial it in and avoid disassembly and opening a bag of snakes. 

Is there someone at or near you farm that could try and lift up the RT arm?

Other than the RT shaft having been twisted as a lot have suggested; and although not likely, if there's a great deal of free movement,  it may have even sheared.

Revisiting the 1-spline index; this would be too much of a distance on the end of a 15" arm when moved one spline, compared to the picture.

I tried counting the splines on my D-14, SC arms...15 or 16 ( fender is IN the way,kept losing count.....). Tried Google, a few pictures,but no GREAT shot of the end.

Still either 15 or 16 won't make a big difference to Gatz' drawing and numbers.

Sure hate to think of the force that did twist the shaft though !!!

Honestly, I'd put the tractor on a trailer and bring her home to SAFELY work on it. There is NO way I'd TRY to remove the rockshaft off without some kind of crane. Did mine, in my garaeg with overhead Ibeam, chain hoists,lotsa light, tools and it was 'ok',AFTER I dumped the diff oil into a 5G bucket....yeah that SHOULD have been 'step 1'.....

While it's home,reseal the ram and add a swivelled hose while it's apart !

As others have mentioned, I can probably "live" with this for awhile so it may be Summer till I get it down (wrapping up a Land Cruiser restoration so my extra garage space is currently utilized).  With that said, I did just purchase another D15 II that will be ready to "hit the ground running" so that helps buy some time as well.  I did have to explain to the wife that I "needed" another D15 II though in the meantime.