Expensive saws use hardened replaceable sprockets, regardless of the type, they last longer.

An inoperative oiler will accellerate wear, but you'll have other, more obvious symptoms if that's happening.

The type of wood you're cutting, and the moisture content, will certainly have an impact on chain load.

Debris IN the wood... meaning dirt... will SERIOUSLY erode a blade, bar, and sprocket.  When cutting up a tree, I always cut the top portions up FIRST, and leave the trunk for last, as the trunk section is always full of embedded dirt.  Wind blows dirt into the bark, which overgrows, then seals the grit in, one ring-at-a-time, leaving you with basically an abrasive de-sharpening log just like putting the bar into the dirt.

BTW... if you're cutting, and touch the dirt with your bar, it's immediately dulled.  Pull off the chain, clean off the sprocket, and put a fresh chain on and continue, then take the dirt-chain back, rinse it out with solvent, and resharpen it, your chains, bar, and sprockets will last much longer, and your saw will cut much better.

Locust is awesome hard stuff, it really resists rot, and challenges any sawmill and chainsaw... only thing like it that I've cut, is Osage Orange ('hedge'), and it makes great tool handles.  Carbide tooth chains are very expensive, but if you're cutting lots of hardwoods, they really help.

Also- you didn't mention what make and model saw you're using, but there's many different types of chains-  there's 0.043, 0.050, 0.058 and 0.063 gauge (width of the drive spurs that pass through the bar groove), and several different pitch sizes (distance between link centers).  If you're running a blade that isn't correct for the sprocket (it is possible), then it'll chew heck out'a both sprocket and chain.

Ah. 

Well, OLDER Craftsman saws were often products by Huskvarna, but most everything since 2017 is from China, imported by MTD.

My guess is that you have one of the newer saws, and betting that the sprocket is very soft.  If you're doing any significant cutting, I'd recommend moving up to a professional grade saw, get several extra chains and a sharpening kit. 

Also:

Always either run out all the fuel, or dump it out when you're done.  Always use fresh gas, I recommend no ethanol (it is incredibly hygroscopic, and attacks the carbeurator's zinc/aluminum die castings) and high quality 2-stroke oil.

ebay and amazon has sellers. anything you get will be made in chimna! Check the oil volume output,---bet its very low!

You can convert most saws to standard sprockets if you want to go that route, so that may be another option for you.

dry locust will take out a new sthil saw too so dont be too hasty about going that route! Work with what you have as long as it is running,--and yes I do use sthil saws too along with a half dozen other brands!

I used to cut dead locust with a Homelite SXLAO with a 20 inch bar. never had any sprocket problems on it and it had the manual oiler as well as the auto oiler, so I still think you have an oiler problem on your saw!

ac fleet wrote: dry locust will take out a new sthil saw too so dont be too hasty about going that route! Work with what you have as long as it is running,--and yes I do use sthil saws too along with a half dozen other brands!

I don't know why you'd say it'd take out ANY PARTICULAR brand of new saw...  I know guys that are so ignorant of chainsaws that they'll destroy ANY saw, of ANY manufacturer, within just a few minutes... it isn't the TREE that's the saw's greatest problem.  ;-)

The proper way to remove the clutch or sprocket (if it's necessary to do so), is to 'stuff the cylinder', either with a tool (a plastic ball on a plastic stick that 'just fits' through the plug hole) or stuff a couple inches of rope in there with a pair of hemostats or needle-nose, then use the 1/4" impact as noted.

I think the biggest issue you'll run into, is finding a replacement sprocket.  If it's an imported saw, the best possible option, is finding an aftermarket (prounounced "Oregon") sprocket, rather than a generic import, as the former will be properly heat-treated, the latter will be much less likely so.

In order to find out what chain type, the best thing to do, is take the saw, bar, chain, etc., to someone who works on lots of saws, and they'll identify it by sight.  You can measure the thickness of the bar's groove (feeler gauges), or the width of the drive tabs (probably 0.043 or 0.050 with caliper or micrometer), and the spacing between links (probably 3/8"), then count the number of links in the chain to get a clear picture of what you have.

Darwin, there've been upwards of a thousand different saws that've worn the CRAFTSMAN name.  There's inboard and outboard clutches, all sorts of sprockets. There's absolutely no way for us to identify with any accuracy, what you're dealing with.

Rather than have us guessing, take pictures of this saw, and post them.  Show the clutch, bar, and chain assembled with the cover off, so we have SOMETHING to work with.