C Overhaul Kits?
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=190563
Printed Date: 19 Dec 2025 at 9:03pm
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Topic: C Overhaul Kits?
Posted By: AaronSEIA
Subject: C Overhaul Kits?
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2022 at 5:43am
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Eventually my boys C that burns a fair amount of oil is going to need an overhaul. Are all the kits out there basically the same? He's got a goal of 30 horse on the dyno. Does a solid 25-26 right now. Any ways to get him that 30 without pushing the RPMs much past stock? AaronSEIA
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Replies:
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2022 at 6:16am
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You'll never get to 30 HP with any "off the shelf kits". The 3-7/16" kits will add only a couple HP. Custom parts will be needed to get in the 30 HP area. No one make any off the shelf performance parts for the BE/CE engines. With standard parts all you can do is a bigger carburetor and RPMs. I've built engines with domed pistons and camshaft work that get 30+ HP. I don't plane heads as that gets clearances too close with domes. Stroking will also add power, with the added cost. Doing all that is physically possible within the confines of the CE block can get in the 60HP range, however the cost is extreme. ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2022 at 7:55am
| Get your new motor kit of overbore size if available. Do some calculations. Have a set of connecting rods made (longer) to increase the compression up to that 8.0 to 1 range (or more if you don't mind buying more expensive fuel) and a larger carb for more air flow. There are places that will make you connecting rods to your spec. |
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2022 at 10:10am
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Longer rods in a BE/CE engine with todays kits will only cause interference between the pistons and head, The kit pistons will come to the top of the block. ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2022 at 12:36pm
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The HEAD of the CE motor is domed... The pistons are flat and pretty much come up level to the top of the block.. If your trying to raise compression, you will have to shave the head, or weld a dome on top of the pistons.... as Paul said, then NEW KITS give as much compression as your going to get with FLAT pistons... and there are no DOME options. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: AaronSEIA
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2022 at 10:49pm
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Does anyone know what the C/R of the aftermarket pistons is? What's a reasonable expectation for power out of a C? Anything other than major engine work and RPM that'll help with a boost? AaronSEIA
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2022 at 11:04pm
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Compression ratio is probably 6.5 to 1... maybe 7 to 1......B and C tractors seem to have plenty of power for MOST applications... only way to get a little more is to add a little RPM like the CA ............... WHY do you think you need more power ? ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: AaronSEIA
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2022 at 6:06am
Because we want it. AaronSEIA
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steve(ill) wrote:Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2022 at 6:19am
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Here is a 4" stroke crankshaft in a C block. The picture shows where I ground the block web for clearance. I removed .150 off the head and installed Chevy small block valves. I custom made the pistons so the top of the under the firing chamber went in .250. I used a D 15 camshaft that I sent to Crane cam in Florida. I drilled the crankshaft for a pressure system and used the D 15 oil pump. I had a shop ballance the crankshaft and pistons alomg with the flywheel. I worked on the carburetor until it would run 4000 RPM smooth. I used an adjustable restrictor plate in the manifold that a normal inspection would not detect. With me doing the majority of the work the bill was a total waste of money. Way too much power to hold traction in a 3 MPH pull. http://media.fotki.com/2vH2NVLxevZ4.jpg" rel="nofollow - http://media.fotki.com/2vH2NVLxevZ4.jpg Some of the pictures I took when building. http://public.fotki.com/DickL/allis_chalmers_engi/installing_sbc_valv/" rel="nofollow - http://public.fotki.com/DickL/allis_chalmers_engi/installing_sbc_valv/ I only used the RPM power in one pull on a second hook when the leader was way over on his RPM. I never got wide open in this pull. The flager said don't go out in the mud. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hM4YbM8keMM" rel="nofollow - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hM4YbM8keMM |
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2022 at 12:06pm
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Dick: Is that the engine that you showed me with a BIG hole in the side of the block? ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: tractorboy
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2022 at 2:50pm
| Nice pull ! That C was walking the dog & sounded awesome! keith so. va. |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 10 Sep 2022 at 3:15pm
No that was the engine I built for a B and shortened the rods for the 4 inch stroke. One of them had a weld that didn't hold. I machined a 3/16 plate and used two head gaskets to use somewhat standard pistons. I spend hours making a fixture so the rods would be exact and true and then messed up on wone with the weld. My first and last try at shortening rods. That was the second 4 inch stroke crankshaft I had made for thos engines. That was after you were here to get the D 15 block. I think you got the head for the D 15 as well.
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