D12 rebuild
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=188231
Printed Date: 02 May 2024 at 8:17pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: D12 rebuild
Posted By: hunter321
Subject: D12 rebuild
Date Posted: 13 May 2022 at 9:43am
| I'm 15 and need help with a d12 rebuild information |
Replies:
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 13 May 2022 at 9:57am
|
Good job on the new post Hunter.. Just break it down into specific questions on what your working on first - second.... Sounds like you need ONE piston and liner, but not sure if you have a 138 or 149 inch motor ? When you get a chance to go look at the tractor, grab that motor serial number. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 13 May 2022 at 10:03am
| I will |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 13 May 2022 at 10:07am
| I was told that I needed to lapp the valves. How do I do it. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 13 May 2022 at 12:24pm
|
IF you set the head on a table , on its side , with the intake and exhaust ports pointing UP and you are looking at the valve heads..... you pour water or gasoline into the ports and look at the valve heads and see how bad they LEAK liquid into the combustion chamber... If you have excessive leaks you remove the valves and springs, wire brush the valves and the ports and seats...... then the "LAP" is actually polishing the VALVE face to match the head SEAT face to get a better seal... you put an abrasive paste on the mating faces and rotate the valve to "lap" it in... if the valves are REALLY bad, then the seat has to be "CUT" with a grinding wheel or steel cutter to get it close enough to "LAP". ..... here is an idea. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQiHgK0Qgjc" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQiHgK0Qgjc ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 13 May 2022 at 1:23pm
| Who told you to 'lap" the valves ??? If there is a compression problem, verified by a compression test, while the head was still on the engine, you need to GRIND the valves and seats. You cannot do this, unless you are a machine shop with all the valve grinding equipment that it takes to do such a job. So, let's have the whole story. Is the cylinder head off or on the engine ???????? |
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 13 May 2022 at 1:48pm
|
Get yourself a GENUINE Allis Chalmers service manual. A parts book is also very helpful. As mentioned there are differences in those engine depending on the serial number and what might have been done previous to you. You need to properly asses what you have to know what you need. ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 13 May 2022 at 4:10pm
| I was given this tractor by one of my moms friends and it hadn't run in years the engine was seized from water damage. When we took the engine apart only 1 pistion was stuck. We pulled all 4 honed 3 and have to pull the fourth. The head is currently at my house disassembled and the rest of the tractor is still at my moms friend's house. One of my dad's friends told me to lap the valves. I haven't but the valves are out of the head |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 13 May 2022 at 4:26pm
|
since it is already disassembled... you would normally clean the valves, do a little lapping and see what the seat looks like....if you hold one in and pour gas thru the port as mentioned, you can see if the "lap" is working or not... Normally a visual check can tell. I would imagine your friend said to "LAP" , just as a standard CHECK when you have everything disassemble... to verify the seat is OK. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 14 May 2022 at 7:38am
| If that's the plate of doo-doo you've been handed, the valves should all go in the same exact location as they came from. |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 16 May 2022 at 12:02pm
|
This is what I found on the head. M4831-1. B21m I think |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 17 May 2022 at 9:02am
|
I dont think the head number will help much.. You need the MOTOR number on the back edge on the left side.... 10- xxxx or 12- xxxx ............ and verify the piston diameter to prove that it has not been changed from factory parts. ... since you only want to replace ONE of the pistons, it needs to MATCH the other three. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 17 May 2022 at 12:48pm
| So I need the number on the engine and the number on the piston |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 17 May 2022 at 3:50pm
|
not a piston number... just measure what the diameter is.... 3- 3/8 , 3- 7/16 , 3- 1/2 inch ... ?? ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 17 May 2022 at 5:24pm
|
Serial number stamped into the flange where the engine and transmission meet on the left side of the tractor.Jul 17, 2017 Type: Row-Crop tractor ------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! |
Posted By: JK in Pa
Date Posted: 17 May 2022 at 5:36pm
| If you can match the piston number you are good to go. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 17 May 2022 at 8:07pm
|
John has a good point.. You have the other 3 pistons out of the motor... Look at the bottom side and see if there are any casting numbers...But still verify the motor serial number and piston diameter. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 19 May 2022 at 1:58pm
|
I'll check the diameter later. I found this on the piston I think it said GE385. Either a 5 or a s |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 19 May 2022 at 10:01pm
| The diameter is 3.47 in |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 20 May 2022 at 4:36am
Sounds like a 149 C.I. engine. IF that is an s, standard, not bored...  ------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! |
hunter321 wrote:Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 20 May 2022 at 10:06am
|
where would i be able to find a pistion and sleeve. diamiter is 3.47 in also what sight has the best prices on engine parts. if i can i want to get the parts for one store but if some are cheaper elsewere i will use two sights
|
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 24 May 2022 at 1:24pm
| Should I look at a tractor salvage yard |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 24 May 2022 at 9:44pm
|
It would sure be best to get a piston that matches the other 3. That will keep the motor balanced and run smooth... If you cant find a "match" then your either stuck buying 4 pistons , or miss matching the 3 + 1 and see what happens.. again, your piston should be something like 3.495 if it is a 3- 1/2 inch BORE in a 149 motor...... if it really measures 3.470 ... thats ODD.... What does the cylinder bore measure ? if you MOTOR serial number is 10 - xxxxx then it would be a 138 inch motor and the bore would be 3-3/8 inch ( 3.375) ..... so the piston would be about 3.37 inch
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 25 May 2022 at 8:14am
| I'll take the piston to the tractor shop as well to make sure the measurements are correct |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 25 May 2022 at 8:19am
  
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Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 25 May 2022 at 8:20am
| The markings I found on the piston |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 25 May 2022 at 9:07am
Hunter, i am not familiar with the FACTORY design on the D12 piston... But MOST allis pistons are not domed like that. You may have an aftermarket piston already.. Maybe someone more familiar with the piston will chime in here.... ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 25 May 2022 at 9:53am
| the top of the pistion is not domed |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 25 May 2022 at 10:02am
|
so thats a shadow on top ? The piston is FLAT or does it concave DOWN ( dished in ). ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 25 May 2022 at 10:35am
 Top is raised like this |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 25 May 2022 at 11:48am
yes... thats what i was thinking.. I thought the ORIGINAL pistons were caved inward like a dish... You may have pistons that have already been changed out once... You MIGHT be able to buy one of those aftermarket pistons to match yours.... but , note that that kit is 3-9/16 bore , so the pistons would be 3.560 or so ........... you still need to verify what your BORE or PISTON diameter is. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 25 May 2022 at 12:03pm
|
Ok I will verify with the tractor shop. So I have original pistons? |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 25 May 2022 at 4:37pm
No, i think your motor has been rebuilt sometime in the past... I "think" the 149 inch motors had concave pistons like this.... Maybe someone who knows the details will chime in.. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 25 May 2022 at 5:26pm
|
Yes, FACTORY pistons for the 138,149 & 160 engines all had "Power Crater" (dished) pistons. Those shown from the engine are aftermarket ones. I have NEW 3-1/2" Power Craters pistons and rings, Although no sleeves. ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 25 May 2022 at 6:33pm
| Does it affect performance of the engine |
Posted By: Lon(MN)
Date Posted: 26 May 2022 at 6:37am
|
I have two D14s. One has the power crater pistons the other has the domed pistons. Both run well. I have used sleeves and power crater pistons. ------------- http://lonsallischalmers.com |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 26 May 2022 at 7:40am
| So I don't need to get original pistons I am fine just getting 1 aftermarket one |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 26 May 2022 at 9:07am
|
The BEST solution is that all 4 pistons MATCH IN DESIGN.. Does not matter what that design is, as long as they all MATCH.. Your biggest problem right now is the DOMED piston in the picture is 3-9/16 ( 3.560 inch) and you said your piston might be 3.470 inch .... if you get a NEW piston and NEW liner, then they will fit... but would be BEST if the diameters were the same... Maybe that is not possible at this point. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 27 May 2022 at 2:12pm
| I currently don't have the money to buy a whole piston kit should I check salvage yards |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 27 May 2022 at 4:49pm
|
It would be BEST if all 4 pistons matched... You need to CONFIRM what is the diameter of the DOMED piston you have.. Can you get ONE of the 3-9/16 pistons from Yesterdays Tractor to match your 3 ?? If not, then you should get a set of 4... they can be used if you find a good deal. Remember the NEW come with liners and piston rings so you dont have to BUY them extra.. I have never put a motor together with pistons that dont match.. The difference in compression and weight will effect the balance.. You COULD luck out if they are close.. You could also have a potential future problem if they dont match. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 28 May 2022 at 7:44am
|
Best practice is to have them all match. That said, you might be surprised to know how many car engines have had one cylinder bored out larger than the rest with no one ever being able to tell the difference in the way it ran. These tractor engines run relatively slow and have relatively low specific power output; for moderate usage you would never be able to tell that there was a mismatch. I personally know of one local WD 45 that threw a rod out through the block. The old farmer simply removed everything related to that cylinder, put some fiberglass patching over the hole, and ran it with three cylinders. I wouldn't run mismatched pistons in a competition pulling engine, but anyone who can afford to play that game (I cannot) will be able to also pay for matching parts. |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 29 May 2022 at 9:42am
|
I'll check at the salvage yards near me for a match for the other 3 pistions. If I can't find one I'll get the kit |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 29 May 2022 at 12:35pm
|
https://www.ebay.com/itm/265667132499?hash=item3ddafebc53:g:~-QAAOSwiC9iasTl%20" rel="nofollow - https://www.ebay.com/itm/265667132499?hash=item3ddafebc53:g:~-QAAOSwiC9iasTl
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2022 at 4:03pm
|
I found this site with engine information https://www.tractordata.com/industrial-tractors/000/4/5/450-allis-chalmers-d-12-engine.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.tractordata.com/industrial-tractors/000/4/5/450-allis-chalmers-d-12-engine.html |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2022 at 6:10pm
| I can't find any pistons online to match the current set and I don't have the money for a brand new engine rebuild kit. Still have to get the size verified by the tractor mechanic near me |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2022 at 10:01pm
|
LIke Les said, its a slow running low HP motor.... so not super critical they all mathc.. BUT still a good idea......YES... you need to verify what is in the tractor TODAY... The ORIGINAL DATA is 60 years old.......... things change.... you know your pistons are somewhat DOMED and that was NOT original. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2022 at 10:54pm
|
So it wouldn’t be the end of the world if 3 matched and 1 was different. Forgot to mention this is a d12 industrial with a back hoe and loader |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2022 at 8:24am
|
Its not the end of the world.... But you still dont know what is in the tractor now... Hard to look for replacements to even try to match. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 16 Jun 2022 at 10:58am
| Ok I will confirm with the mechanic what's in the tractor currently |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2022 at 12:32pm
|
https://www.google.com/shopping/product/1?q=allis+chalmers+d12+aftermarket+piston+head&client=ms-android-verizon&biw=360&bih=647&tbs=vw:g&sxsrf=ALiCzsbI__rBUhOSvHxmyEH7QSpxud5KJg:1655326403209&prds=epd:8886771715549346648,pid:8886771715549346648,prmr:1,cs:1" rel="nofollow - https://www.google.com/shopping/product/1?q=allis+chalmers+d12+aftermarket+piston+head&client=ms-android-verizon&biw=360&bih=647&tbs=vw:g&sxsrf=ALiCzsbI__rBUhOSvHxmyEH7QSpxud5KJg:1655326403209&prds=epd:8886771715549346648,pid:8886771715549346648,prmr:1,cs:1 I found this |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2022 at 2:08pm
| That isn't what the other three look like is it ??????? They have to match in looks and bore size !! |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2022 at 3:13pm
|
READ Lons post several up from here..( May 26)..... I have two D14s. One has the power crater pistons the other has the domed pistons. Both run well. I have used sleeves and power crater pistons. Get a set from him and buy new rings for them... You STILL dont know the bore of the 3 you have ..
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2022 at 3:14pm
| I was told it would be fine |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2022 at 3:25pm
|
hunter, it is not FINE, but it "MIGHT" work .... Your taking a chance that the weight and compression "might" be in the ball park with different pistons... You have 3 domed pistons and dont know the diameter. The replacement you show is a crater piston and is 3.5 inch diameter.... It "MIGHT" be OK, but only if you have no other choice. Lon said he has a set of USED... I would at LEAST check him out and see what the price is..for a matching set.  ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2022 at 5:21pm
| Lon has TWO sets of used....one set dished.....one set domed. He doesn't have them mixed in an engine. |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2022 at 10:05pm
|
I am getting information on those pistons. Still wondering if I had to if I got the exact same piston dimensions but a different style it would work |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2022 at 10:23pm
| In order to be CORRECT, the pistons must weigh the same, have the same design top and be of the SAME exact compression ratio or the engine will shake and vibrate. |
Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2022 at 1:53pm
|
The only valid reasons to use mis-matched pistons are if you are dead broke or the correct parts are simply not available in an acceptable time frame. Good used pistons are a viable option. Even if it means postponing the purchase of your new I-phone, try to get the correct parts. |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 27 Jul 2022 at 4:50pm
| I know this is kind of a dumb question but could I hook up a small trailer to my truck and lay the loader of the d12 on it and strap it down and pull it home like that. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 27 Jul 2022 at 5:21pm
| A loader mounted on a D-12 ? Lift up the bucket and back the trailer under the bucket ?? Let the bucket down on the trailer and strap the bucket to the trailer so you can pull the tractor home ?? How many miles are we talking ??? You'd be a lot safer having the bucket raised up 2 ft, blocked with angle iron stops on the cylinders and having someone PULL you home with a tow rope at speeds no more than 10 MPH. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 27 Jul 2022 at 5:41pm
|
I made an A-frame out of 3 inch channel that bolted to two holes in the bucket... and had a hitch pin out front....... pulled out of the woods to home that way.... Could work on the road a LOW SPEED... SHORT DIstance. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2022 at 12:02am
|
We would go slow on back roads. Maybe 15 miles stopping regularly to check it |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2022 at 5:59am
| I would jack and block the loader up, then get someone with a rollback or trailer with a winch tp do the move. My experience is doing something like you're talking about usually ends up being a bad experience and ends up costing more (sometimes a lot more) in the long run. |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2022 at 10:16am
| Thanks to everyone who has given their experience and knowledge in this. We where planning on pulling the loader putting it on a trailer and pulling the tractor home with our Oliver 1650 |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2022 at 10:24am
| Make absolutely sure the transmission is FULL of oil before towing it, or you'll get to work on the transmission too. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2022 at 11:46am
raised bucket up 18 inches and put band clamp bracket around cylinder rod to hold it there.. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2022 at 3:08pm
| What is a band clamp bracket |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2022 at 8:57am
|
i cut a 2.5 inch pipe 10 inches long, split in half... put around the hydraulic lift cylinder rod and "CLAMPED" so it stayed in place... I welded ears on each half and bolted them back together that time... On another job, i use a U CLAMP -- or MUFFLER CLAMP to go around the pipe as a BAND.
you lift the bucket 18 inches off the ground, then measure how much ROD is sticking out of the cylinder--- and add a pipe to hold it there.  ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2022 at 11:41am
| I need to find a tie rod end |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2022 at 7:49am
| Can I just get a universal tye rod end |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2022 at 8:40am
|
you need to figure out the THREAD on the shaft so it fits on the tie rod..... Then the TAPER shaft should be as close as possible........ You might be able to go to NAPA or something like that and compare several in stock and get one that is CLOSE... Factory part seems to be $$$. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 27 Jan 2023 at 9:36am
| what is the original bore of the d12. i am trying to find the right size sleeve puller or make one |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 27 Jan 2023 at 9:38am
| i have a 8 pound slide hammer, if i made a sleeve puller for it would that work |
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 27 Jan 2023 at 11:47am
| Might. I cut a 3/8” disc slightly larger than the sleeve OD and drilled a hole in the center the correct size for the set up I used. |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 27 Jan 2023 at 12:57pm
I've pounded sleeves out with a piece of hardwood and I've had them come out very hard with a sleeve puller. You never know until you try them.
|
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 30 Jan 2023 at 8:20am
| What is the outer diameter of the original d12 piston sleeve |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2023 at 8:44am
| I'm not having any luck finding the original bore size. I need help figuring it out so I can make the correct size sleeve puller |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2023 at 11:49am
|
According to Tractordata.com, the bore is 3.375. Copied and pasted from their website:
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2023 at 12:53pm
|
hunter, normally the motor is OUT, turned upside down and you POUND the sleeve out from the bottom....... is your motor still in the tractor and your trying it pull from the TOP ? ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2023 at 3:10pm
| Yes the motor is still on the tractor |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2023 at 3:14pm
| Wrap some tape around the crankshafts connecting rod journal to keep dirt out of the oil hole and to PROTECT the journal from damage whilst you remove the cylinder sleeve(s). |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2023 at 9:41am
| i am working on amking the 3.375 inch metale plate to pull the sleeve, should i make one that will fit inside the sleeve to keep it in place |
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2023 at 12:10pm
| Couldn’t hurt. Would help with alignment during set up to pull |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2023 at 12:26pm
|
the 3.375 is 3-3/8 inch.... that is the bore INSIDE the LINER... that is not the hole in the block or the OD of the liner. ............ the OD is probably more like 3.60 inch .... i would measure the NEW liner. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2023 at 1:37pm
|
When I "made the puller" for 201-226 engines I didn't get fancy. Two straps of 3/4" steel with 25/32" holes, a length of 3/4" all thread, some spacers to go on the deck and a couple of 3/4-10 nuts. The sleeve sticks down far enough the bottom doesn't have to be perfect. Once the O-rings clear they come right out. I think your engine would be similar. |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2023 at 2:34pm
| is the pistion sleeve flush with the bottom of the engine block or is there a lip |
Posted By: Gary
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2023 at 7:41pm
|
No the sleeve is not flush with the block at the lower end of the Liner. The Liner protrudes probably more than an inch. I would fabricate a lower pulling plate at least 4 1/2" diameter so you will be able to use it on other Engines, Eg WD with 4" pistons. G |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2023 at 9:27am
|
i just bought a new pushrod fro the d12 but now i am confused because it is different than all of the other pushrods i have except one the first picture is what i bought and one just like it was allready in the head. the second picture is what all the other pushrods look like   |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2023 at 5:21pm
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All that matters is the length and that it fits into the lifter on one end, and the rocker, on the other... ------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 01 May 2023 at 8:52am
 i finally got the d12 home thanks to clark towing llc
|
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 01 May 2023 at 5:22pm
| I need more ideas for pulling the sleeve the slide hammer is not working |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 01 May 2023 at 5:28pm
|
you need a puller... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgrbOnZ0m5Q" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgrbOnZ0m5Q ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 01 May 2023 at 5:49pm
| That won't work the sleeve is chipped and broken at the bottom |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 01 May 2023 at 6:43pm
|
Hunter, you have taken on quite an ambitious job even for a seasoned mechanic. I give you a lot of credit for taking this project on, so your heart is definitely in it. Pullers do work well but it does seam to look like your sleeves are really stuck. I’m curious to know if the sleeves were broken at the bottom before you started or if they have broken as you have tried to pull them? I know it will cause you more work but I would be on the safe side and pull the engine. That way, if you can borrow a engine stand to mount it to you could flip the engine over and drive them out after you pull the crank. Most likely, seals, bearings, gaskets, will need to be replaced. Crank my need to be touched up. To do a proper job, you need to get it apart to see how bad the damage is. I’m not trying to discourage you but I don’t want you to struggle so much that you become discouraged. Rob ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 01 May 2023 at 7:49pm
|
I have a engine stand and tools. Now that It is home it is a bit easier to work on |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 01 May 2023 at 8:08pm
| The sleeves are wet sleves |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 01 May 2023 at 8:23pm
| Is there anyway to not pull the engine and still replace the sleeve |
Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 01 May 2023 at 10:02pm
| you will probley have jack up one side of the front axle to get the pan out or remove the front axle to get the pan off then you can in frame it but you need to mesure the crank journals you may have to pull it any ways to have crank work done |
Posted By: hunter321
Date Posted: 03 May 2023 at 10:36am
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I'm not sure if the sleeve I have is a wet sleeve or not. How do I tell. If the replacement is not a wet sleeve I will need a new sleeve and Piston again |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 03 May 2023 at 12:29pm
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all of the small Allis engines are wet sleeve... You are going to have problems jacking the sleeve out from the bottom, etc, with the crank in the way.. You should be able to pull from the top with a puller. Sleeve only needs to move up about 1/2 inch and then it will lift out easier.. In the end, i would pull the motor and lift the crank out.. Sounds like a lot of work, but you will learn a LOT OF INFO for future jobs... A couple of extra weeks now "in the shop" will be good in the long run. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |