generic ignition switch
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=183647
Printed Date: 08 Jul 2025 at 4:21pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: generic ignition switch
Posted By: edmo
Subject: generic ignition switch
Date Posted: 03 Oct 2021 at 2:20pm
| Ok, so I thought my ignition switch on the 180 was responsible for some battery drain issues and decided to replace it. My neighbor, an auctioneer who brings home boxes of miscellaneous from farm auctions that sell for a buck, had a new switch that looks just like the one I am taking off. Thought it worth a try. The switches are the universal ones that have a three arm star on the back with ACC, BAT, and IGN in the recesses between the arms, and the ST in the center of the star. Box said it was rated for 32A so thought I'd try it. Since I use the existing push button momentary for START, I was going to leave the ST on the new switch empty and just run a jumper from the push button to the IGN on the new switch. That sound right?? The reason I'm asking is because the previous owner had the ST going to the relay (magnetic switch), via a red/white wire, that went to the manifold heater through a 10A wire. The other terminals on the old switch seemed to go to the right places per the schematic. |
Replies:
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 03 Oct 2021 at 4:23pm
|
sounds good... the START terminal would not be used as you said... ALl your wanting is a ON- OFF key switch, not using the momentary START position.. You turn the key ON.. battery send power thru the IGNITION terminal to your PUSH BUTTON for cranking. DO you need a hot wire after the motor starts to run a light or oil pressure signal, etc ? That would have to be a SEPARATE wire off the IGNITION terminal ... if your ACC terminal is not HOT in the IGNITION position. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 03 Oct 2021 at 4:27pm
maybe something like this... Looks like ACC is hot in both positions. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 03 Oct 2021 at 7:39pm
|
Previous owner had it right. ST position is to be used for the manifold heater relay. ------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080 |
Posted By: edmo
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2021 at 11:55am
| OK, the other issue I found with the switch is that with the key in O position, my ohm meter shows continuity between all terminals except for the ACC which has not wires attached. It shows considerable resistance, but nonetheless there are no completely open circuits. I assume that is not right. BTW this is the new switch and connected exactly like the old one was. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2021 at 3:28pm
|
hopefully not... In the O position, nothing is connect to nothing.. You turn the key over to the accessory position to get that... and you turn the key the other way to 1st positon for ignition and 2nd position to crank ( start)........... dont think you should see anything in the O position ?
Ohm meter should work, but i would set on the bench and connect a battery ( or 12 v charger) to the bAT terminal... then take a small idiot light and touch one wire to the NEG battery terminal and the other to the IGN and see if it lights ( in positon #2)... then the ACC and see if it lights ( in position #1)..
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: edmo
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2021 at 4:40pm
| afraid so. I didn't write down the ohm readings, but didn't get the OF reading like when I touch the meter leads together. Afraid its just from a jumbled mess of rewiring in the past. Bought some #2 welding cable and will be making a battery disconnect. At least I can use the dang tractor while I'm trying to figure it out. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2021 at 5:55pm
|
OK...so not necessarily the switch... When installed on tractor, you may get some continuity thru generator , lights, etc... depending on how you are testing the INSTALLED switch. ?? ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: edmo
Date Posted: 05 Oct 2021 at 7:27am
|
Thanks Steve, I see what you mean. I wouldn't know what what to make of the ohm readings anyway with the key off. I suppose one of them might suggest which circuit is draining my battery, but I'm in over my head which doesn't take much. I'll put all the connections back as they were and see what happens. If the thing starts and the wiring don't smoke, I'm good. |