Gooseneck Trailer
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Other Topics
Forum Name: Shops, Barns, Varmints, and Trucks
Forum Description: anything you want to talk about except politics
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=178446
Printed Date: 25 Apr 2025 at 7:12am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Gooseneck Trailer
Posted By: JPatten71
Subject: Gooseneck Trailer
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 3:29am
|
I know this is proably a can of worms but what are your thoughts on gooseneck trialers. What brands do you like? Good or bad exceprices with brands? What kind of ramps do you peffer? Any must have feature or just nice features to add to your goosenecks? Any regreads about your trailer, or things you wish you added? ------------- Model CA, All Crop 60, Roto Baler |
Replies:
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 3:50am
|
Bought a 24’ single wheel tandem with fold sown rear platforms and slide out ramps a decade ago Company that built it is long out of business as you will find as look to older trailers Will recommend tandem Dual wheel axles and no they do not wear tires faster or are harder to pull Frame is narrower generally have Two nose jacks are far more stable and better capacity for that few set of times really need Get Grease lubed axle bearings not oiled try to avoid fold over ramps as look the easiest but are forever in the way and tend to get locked down if load heavy Extra side supports braces and stake pocket rub rails are a plus Add or purchase and install side under slung tool box as well expanded steel line the floor of the neck space for storage And YES buy a spare with the trailer As soon as receive if not painted purchase boiled linseed oil and mop the trailer floor with it Do this every other year |
Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 3:50am
| right now price is my factor, there are alot of good trailers out there, and made in alot of different locations. i guess i would be interested in dealers in your area mainly for repairs or replacement parts. there is a trailer manuf. place near me, they sell alot of all types of trailers, large dealer network, and after buying one of theirs, i'll never buy another from them. i still use the one i bought, but upkeep is quite high. the good brands are high priced, but prolly less expensive in the long run. Big Tex is a brand that comes to mind as a good trailer, there are others, my mind is a bit fuzzy right now to remember other names. good luck finding what you need! |
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 4:05am
|
Gator is a better choice than big tex these days Stillwell I would take as a gift Older trail masters are a good unit Are others but will need to inspect extensively any over five years old NO torsion ride axles as do not take contortion well and expensive to repair Check dealers as shameless noted for length in location, service and parts available Then check what trailers are being used locally by contractors and others Stay to a common theme Meant to add Single tires sidewall sway considerably and no amount of air will stop Duals also do not sink as fast in soft soil rolling resistance of singles is More than duals as sidewalls do flex more loaded Will have electric brakes Make certain it comes with a breakaway kit(now DOT Mandated) and that the truck has a battery charge output to the trailer |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 5:34am
|
I am seriously thinking about ordering a Kauffman tilting gooseneck. My cousin has a Moritz tilting trailer (16' tilt - 8' stationary) that I have used several times. I really like the idea of not lugging on ramps. I am interested in the FDWTG-8K-28D ( 14' fixed and 14'6" tilt). Here is a link to the one I am thinking of. https://www.kaufmantrailers.com/gooseneck-trailers/equipment-gooseneck-trailer/deluxe-17000-gvwr-equipment-tilt-gooseneck-trailer/" rel="nofollow - Deluxe 17000 GVWR Equipment Tilt Gooseneck Trailer by Kaufman Trailers Anyone have any experience with them?
|
Posted By: JW in MO
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 5:43am
I bought a 24’ Kauffman tilt, 14k axels and added the 16” on center framework. Only thing I would do different is get the 28’, mine is 14’ tilt, 10’ flat, the 14’ flat wasn’t an option then but is now. If something happens to mine, I’d order another Kauffman in a heartbeat. ------------- Maximum use of available resources! |
WF owner wrote:Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 5:44am
|
my 2 comments... whatever you get 1) be SURE your truck WILL pull it......safely ! 2) add BACKUP lights !! SHOULD be 'standard eqipment', nobody puts them on though. ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 5:59am
Thank you !!! I have no experience with Kauffman and was hoping someone did. We do quite a few parades and now my grandkids are interested in driving (they aren't content handing out American flags or candy anymore). I'm hoping to get two small tractors on the front (maybe an IB and SFW CA) and I know I can easily get a tractor on the back tilt section.
|
Posted By: JW in MO
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 6:46am
|
WF, I can barely squeeze my CA on the front of the trailer if I raise the lift latches up and extend them past the front bar and the rear tires against the front you barely have enough room to tilt the back deck to get another tractor on. If I load it forward, the tilt hits the rear tires, that’s why I’d get the 28’. ------------- Maximum use of available resources! |
Posted By: ac160
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 6:52am
| I have a trailerman 16' gooseneck with heavier axles and really like it. It trails good loaded or empty and it solidly built with brakes on both axles. I bought it used many years ago and has been low maintenance. |
Posted By: ac fleet
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 10:41am
 one like neighbor has---hyd. tail ,---dual wheel tandem.------------- http://machinebuildersnetwork.com/ |
Posted By: NEVER green
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 10:48am
|
DMiller, why greased bearings and not oiled??? Thought the oiled ones had less rolling resistance and other benefits. ------------- 2-8050 1-7080 6080 D-19 modelE & A 7040 R50 |
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 11:37am
|
Bearing preload is the resistance, once any heat the oil or grease flow regardless. Grease does not throw as will oil, ANY issue with a seal and the oil seal hubs dump, then you are sitting until fixed(DOT) Grease can throw a minor amount and only be messy, also as oil sits runs back off bearings, Are supposed to roll oiled hubs every few weeks to keep oxidation(Corrosion) down by keeping lube on bearings. Over the road trailer Sure, Oil Hubs, part time use around home maybe do something every so often, Grease. I pull and repack every two years. Hub oil draws moisture, should be changed as soon as color changes or goes opaque.
|
Posted By: JoeM(GA)
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 3:31pm
|
Dual jacks, winch, hydraulic ramps (Don’t laugh, the older you get, the nicer that button is!) Under deck lock box for chains and binders, and 10 feet longer than you think you’ll ever need ------------- Allis Express North Georgia 41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's, Ford 345C TLB |
Posted By: jiminnd
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 3:50pm
|
the only thing I will add, I had one with the monster flip over ramps, like the idea but only had spring assist going up for folding, laying flat on the trailer to unfold was a killer, I got rid of mine for that reason and haven't replaced it yet. ------------- 1945 C, 1949 WF and WD, 1981 185, 1982 8030, unknown D14(nonrunner) |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 4:07pm
I had one trailer with flip over ramps and my dump trailer has pull out ramps. As I get older, handling the ramps get more of a hassle. After I used the tilting trailer, I was sold on no ramps.
|
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 4:29pm
|
Hydraulic Fold Down Beavertail looks sweet. Mine is Mechanical and lever operated to get to ramp ends, could really utilize that entire fold down assembly and gets the Tail that drags on any high spot HIGHER.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HKEsYbI9O4" rel="nofollow - PJ Gooseneck Hydraulic Dovetail Loading a Case IH Maxxum 130 - PJ Trailers - YouTube
|
Posted By: allisbred
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 4:32pm
|
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 4:36pm
|
A talkative guy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxIu1kX9UOs" rel="nofollow - COMPARING GOOSENECK TRAILERS. IS IT WORTH THE EXTRA MONEY OR IS CHEAPER JUST AS GOOD? - YouTube
|
Posted By: ZachD89
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 4:49pm
I have a 35ft PJ with a 6ft spread axle with 3 flip down ramps. Really nice trailer. I pull it with my 3500 ram or my kenworth w900 tractor. The 3 ramps make it nice for narrow front tractors but PJ has what they call monster ramps now and they would be a lot better. Monster ramps are just two ramps that cover the whole width of the trailer. There are a lot of nice trailers out there but I like my PJ.   ------------- 37 A,37 Waukesha B,35 WC,38 WF,M crawler,49 WF,49 WD,53 WD45,39 and 40 RC,47 WC,41 B,39 B,48G,48,C,59D10,D21,IB,B10,B12,B208,B1,Roto Bale Loader, sp100 combine, allcrop 66, L3 Gleaner |
Posted By: Red Bank
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 8:58pm
 I borrowed my friends Gator trailer to pick up this tractor really liked it, it seems Gator thought of all the little things when they built it with steps and handles where you need them.
|
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 9:09pm
|
Getting back to the original poster, you have to decide what your needs (and desires) are, what your budget is, what your truck will handle, what features you want and how much you are going to use it. What may be the ideal rig for me, may not come close to what you want or need. Good luck !
|
Posted By: Dirt Farmer
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2021 at 10:04pm
| If you are going to have a hydraulic dove tail then go the extra mile and get the dual hydraulic jacks too, makes unhooking a loaded trailer much easier between weekend tractor shows. An electric winch on the front of the trailer is convenient, if ordering a new trailer it is a cheap add on for the mount bracket and install a winch at a later time. I have loaded several non running trucks and tractors on our trailer with the winch. Good luck with your search, there are many options out there. Talk to others at tractor shows and ask what they like and dont like about their trailers |
Posted By: NEVER green
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 10:03am
|
I dare say Red Bank that trailer and tires were pushed to the limit, of course Ive never been there.  ------------- 2-8050 1-7080 6080 D-19 modelE & A 7040 R50 |
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 11:00am
|
#1 What do you need to Haul? How heavy is it? #2 remember that if the trailer is rated over 10,000 pounds You must have a Class A drivers license. Also 10,000+ pound vehicle as classed a Commercial vehicle and MUST have an annual FMCSA inspection. Any dual tandem meets this standard. Now as for me I purchased a new trailer in 2010 that is a 20' LanChester aluminum, with OIL hubs, single wheels and torsion suspension. It pulls easy and rides great. This trailer has convinced me to never buy a new steel trailer. Steel trailers that are powder coated will rust under that coating before you know you have a problem. Painted trailers have just have enough paint on them to look pretty the day you first get it. As for length, trailers are like buildings, they're never long enough. I got slide in ramps as I don't like flip overs that limit the use of the space over the ramps and don't work well on uneven ground. I also like the slide in ramps as I have a loading dock at home so I just park the trailer there. Would I do anything different? Maybe 22' long and specify that the gooseneck not be so high so as to clear those newer type pickups that you need a stepladder to get in the bed. Other than that I'm happy with what I have. Make a list of what you want and how you plan to use it and go from there. To each his own on what they like. ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 12:10pm
Before everyone panics, you only need a Class A CDL if: Required to operate any combination of vehicles with a gross combination weight rating (GVWR) of 26,001 or more pounds, provided the towed vehicle is heavier than 10,000 pounds. (Source: https://driving-tests.org/cdl-classification-licenses/" rel="nofollow - https://driving-tests.org/cdl-classification-licenses/ ) Most dual wheeled tandem trailers / dually pickup combinations now fall into that requirement. We are starting to see some "operating out of license class" citations for that reason. Before people start saying "in my state", remember that CDL's are a federal license that is issued by the state that the licensee lives in. The regulations are federal, not state. |
Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 12:25pm
|
Low pro deck height of 30” can be handy for some applications? Regular deck height ~ 36-37”. Complete height I-beam boxing between two longitudinal I-beam frame is an important structural consideration. It should include front, middle, & rear boxing. Consider positioning trailer axles all the way to rear of trailer for best ride(less truck bucking) & better weight distribution empty or loaded. Depending on length of trailer, it’s longer wheel base can be more challenging to corner on narrow rural roads. Dexter axles have many parts distributors available. |
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 12:27pm
|
Only when a truck/trailer are used in Commerce do the FMCSA rules applicable. Not For Hire Personal use ONLY as for Farm or just moving Own machines is NO need of FMCSA Inspections. Transport a Friends tractor either for cash or barter and NOT be doing it for yourself is considered commerce whether you attempt to hide it or not. HOWEVER, step across a narrow line on the floor and become Class A Weight while moving a friends machine or flirting with issues by buying/selling machines(Commerce) and get caught, the dogs will be loosed. Fully intend to License the KW we have as 54,000BL Mo State Plate(Personal Plate) not getting a DOT Number nor interstate commerce license so is no more than a big pickup truck. Will need MO State Inspections, and being a Class 8 will require a DOT Inspect annually but only due to weight class. Will then be able to use to drag my Farm Machines to Nephews place(Our old Farm place in Salem MO) for him to use on maintenance of that place. Will also be able to transport materials I BUY to construct nephews cabin and storage shelter there, he will pay back LATER. Truck will have "NOT FOR HIRE" on both sides, removable signage.
|
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 12:44pm
If you are claiming that a vehicle over 26,000 lbs. is not a CMV, it can not be used in any way "for compensation" other than a vehicle registered and used specifically for farm use. I know a guy that has a race car (dirt track car) that has a triple axle enclosed trailer, pulled by a dually pickup (combination over 26,000 lbs.). Since they have the potential to win prize money, even though they do not haul anything for anyone else, they are considered a CMV. Same deal for guys with pulling tractors.
|
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 12:56pm
|
That is a point of fact. I will NOT be working to attain prizes nor trades goods nor monetary gain, NOT commerce. STILL requires a Class A as the GVWR of the truck and any trailer behind it puts it there, just NOT considered CMV as to DOT regs, do NOT have to run Logs or E-logs, do NOT have to carry load sheets or any other paperwork beyond License and Insurance. 'PERSONAL' Vehicle. All the license class law is based on GVWR of Towing and connected towed units. I will at times pull a RV with it, will still have a 54k BL license on it and still require scaling but nothing beyond that. Should I trade it out to a crew cab Class 7 tow vehicle with Air brakes same rules apply. Already determined during WRITTEN conversations with State DOT and FED FMCSA Rep.
|
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 1:08pm
|
https://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/hours-service/elds/agricultural-exceptions-and-exemptions-fmcsa-safety" rel="nofollow - Exemptions to the Federal Motor Carrier Safety Regulations (FMCSR) | FMCSA (dot.gov)
At a point in Time as NOT actually performing Interstate Commerce, Not carrying animals nor cargo for business purpose the machine becomes a Personal Conveyance of a Weight category requiring a Class A CDL with Air Brake endorsement.
|
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 1:31pm
|
The point I was trying to make is: 1. a trailer can be over 10,000 lbs. without a CDL . 2. If your combination is over 26,000 lbs., you will need a Class A CDL if you are engaged in anything that involves compensation. There has been a lot written in here about buying tandem axle trailers with dual wheels. A trailer with a high GVW will mostly require a Class A CDL.
|
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 2:54pm
|
If you are in Iowa, and you're driving a truck who's GVWR is greater than 10,000lbs, and your trailer has a capacity of greater than 10,000, it does not matter WHAT you are pulling, or even if you're unladen, you are subject to CLASS A requirement. IF you drive ANY vehicle with service airbrakes (even if it's a 1970 Puch Moped), you need at LEAST a Class B with AIRBRAKE ENDORSEMENT. The 'fine print' exceptions include: 'farmer' (generating over 20k/yr of income in 20+ acre farm either owned or rented), driving equipment owned, leased or otherwise registered TO that 'farm', and between field-farm-and-market of 150 air miles, and not hauling for others... the Class A is not required... BUT... if you have air-brakes, a Class A (trailer combination) or Class B (straight truck) CDL with airbrake endorsement IS REQUIRED. IF your tow vehicle is NOT commercial... with UNDER 10K GVW, you can tow ANY TRAILER YOU LIKE, without need for a CDL, PROVIDED that you don't 1) exceed the gross or axle weight ratings of the trailer, the truck, or Gross COMBINED Weight Rating of the truck... and that 2) you do not exceed a combination of 26,000lbs. You can legally tow a 46,000lb CAPACITY 52ft fifth-wheel semi trailer, with a 9980gvwr (3/4t) pickup truck... as long as the trailer brakes ARENT PNEUMATIC... and your total weight isn't over 26000. Seems silly? No, this is specifically to allow an individual to RELOCATE an EMPTY trailer with a light truck. Non-AIR brakes are a 'gotcha', though. Iowa is entirely free to pull over ANY pickup truck, but the SIGNS say Over 10,000lbs. Technically, if you're driving a 1973 Buick Electra Estate Wagon, and towing a 23ft SeaRay cutty-cabin, the combined weight being around 10,250lbs, they CAN flag you in, and they can inspect. IF a vehicle is owned or registered to a company OR HAS EMBLEMS SUGGESTING commerical business association, they CAN flag you in. Remember that, when you put a magnetic AC emblem on your orange Chevy with the 401 growling underhood. Last time I drove my F250 across Minnesota, I got flagged in. No trailer, under 10k. Full inspection, logbook checked, etc... why? It's got a company emblem. No CDL required, but Hours Of Service regs applied. Behind me, they pulled in a Chevy Cruze, with a PEPSI emblem on the door. Bottling company field sales guy. Level 1 inspection, logbook please... South Dakota will do it, too. ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 3:47pm
|
Our KW, NO Commercial Labeling whatsoever. Will Have PERSONAL CONVEYANCE and NOT FOR HIRE signage Can also Have PRIVATE COACH instead of PERSONAL CONVEYANCE. That per FMCSA and MO DOT sets it as a PRIVATE CAR with a weight tag. And Yes I did NOT argue the Driver License, Class A still required, just NO Log Book/record, No Load sheets for Inspection, No requirement for anything but Registration and Insurance. PERSONAL CONVEYANCE. No restriction as to using it as a Giant Sized Pickup Truck as NOT in use for Interstate Commerce. No extra permitting or special tagging or fuel permits required, IN WRITING.
|
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 3:50pm
| BTW, Check that New Dodge or GMC or FORD Full 1 ton GVWR when go to drive it off the lot. They HAVE Changed, there are quite a few with GVWR OVER 26001# depending upon options packages and is on the Data tag on the Door frame. Checked out a friends, his is 32,000GVWR. Already been explained to him by the License Office he now needs a Class B Minimum and a Class A to tow. |
Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 4:41pm
| So far - ALL FARM- use no problems anywhere yet - just have good equipment , chained down good and never answer the question with a question ! They hate that |
Posted By: Red Bank
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 6:06pm
|
Posted By: JPatten71
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2021 at 9:56pm
|
Yes GVWR and everything about CDL and weight matters but I was not asking about that, so leave that discuses for somewhere else. I was wonder what goosenecks other [people had and what they liked or dislike, or what they would change if they bought another gooseneck. Tilted deck or straight deck trailers that are low to the ground are good but I need the 102in deck so that is not an option. Ever the low profiles that are 102in that have the drive over fenders won't work either. Since you can not park on top of them with a 130hp tractor. Thanks to everyone that has shared info about their own gooseneck trailers would love to here more, but leave out the CDL and weight discuses, it is important but not on this page. Thanks again ------------- Model CA, All Crop 60, Roto Baler |
Posted By: NEVER green
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2021 at 9:37am
!!!!!!! Aint never seen a trailer like that, my dually axels are only rated to 10,000 a piece. NICE!! ------------- 2-8050 1-7080 6080 D-19 modelE & A 7040 R50 |
Posted By: JW in MO
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2021 at 9:52am
|
Here in the midwest, for the money, I find it hard to pass up either Kauffman out of Nebraska or E-W out of Whitesboro, OK. I had a 31' E-W, 26' flat, 5' dove and added the third spring assist ramp. I just got tired of picking up those heavy ramps to let them down, and the biggest factor, I kinda lost my nerve loading big tractors up that high because it's not always sunny, 80 degrees, and level lot to load on. I've cheated death too many times to push it anymore so that's why I went with the gooseneck tilt. I know Kauffman will deliver and rather cheap if you aren't in a hurry and they get a full load your direction. E-W, I'm not sure about other than if you pick it up in person, call and get directions first, your Garmin will take you on a scenic tour through some sharp curves and dump you out on a road that no longer exists. Owner there said, "Yep, happens every time." ------------- Maximum use of available resources! |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2021 at 11:06am
|
I just watched the YouTube video that DMiller posted on the previous page. There is a lot of good information in there. I know we all have a budget, but I have also bought things that were less expensive and wished later that I had spent a little more and got what I wanted.
|
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2021 at 7:16am
|
Have had conversations with others on the subject where it all boils down to license requirements and a internalized need by some to buck the system. If you need to haul a 18-20,000# backhoe or a small 14-16,000# crawler or even to haul raw materials in bunks of lumber where really can overload quickly then why buy too light and too chancy a machine setup? As noted in other conversations, have seen the people dragging a 13-16,000# Fifth Wheel or HUGE Holiday Rambler Bumper Pull with a Half Ton Pickup, a Escalade or Tahoe, have even seen Toyota Hilux Trucks dragging same. ALL taking a risk never intended for the machines and all looking to find disgust from insurers should they destroy someone else's lives while doing this. Have had my 180 and assorted machinery on my gooseneck SW Tandem I should NOT have as the braking system was at max capacity where a single failure would have been catastrophic. I keep my machines well maintained, maybe not photo quality clean or picture perfect to appear new but mechanically as sound as can achieve. I know others that will not go that far. Have seen the 16,000# backhoe on a single wheel gooseneck, it is ONLY rated at 13,000 for tires capacity, 14,000 IF go to heavy enough rated tires and that includes weight of trailer. So if cannot qualify for a Class A CDL as will not study up or will not take the tests or cannot pass the physical why are you skirting the law and doing just under requirements as that is just as unsafe to the rest of the public? It is NOT that hard to achieve a Class A if try, comes in handy if need Extra Work or cash or a neighbor needs a extra driver a few days and you have time. It is NOT hard to drive and operate within the law and be sensible of it. If arguing license expense, how much can you afford should a occurrence happen and beyond insurance you get sued for NOT having been licensed sufficiently or properly? Or receive tickets and fines for operating in excess of license requirements? I have a Class A, including Tank Hazmat and Multiple Trailers, I have all the endorsements except School Bus which I will NOT EVER try to achieve. I have a larger truck going together where will purchase a replacement for my old Gooseneck then sell it, most likely a Step Deck with air brakes and slide out ramps so can perform multiple duties of it. Have a 16' low deck car hauler with 16" load range E tires on it where it will become the pickup truck drag or behind a neighbors truck as does not require a CDL to pull. Otherwise my Large Truck will be a RV hauler over sized Pickup truck personal conveyance used under my CDL.
|