Roto baler problem
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=170992
Printed Date: 21 Jun 2025 at 3:09pm
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Topic: Roto baler problem
Posted By: js case
Subject: Roto baler problem
Date Posted: 10 May 2020 at 1:18pm
| Any experts out there on the roto baler. We used one on the farm when I was a kid but dad always kept it running. All I got to do was pickup all those little round bales. Bought a white top a few years ago just to show kids what it was like. Looked to be in good shape. Finally got it in field last summer and could not get to bale. Bale would start rolling but then kick out almost as soon as it started. I worked all afternoon trying to get it to bale with only one bale by dark. Haven't looked at it since but would still like to get it working. I would appreciate any information anyone has to help me get this baler going. |
Replies:
Posted By: NE GA Allis
Date Posted: 10 May 2020 at 1:58pm
|
If the white top balers are similar to the older balers, then I would start looking at the trip latches located at the back of the baler at both ends of the two rollers that separate when the bale is ejected. If the latches are latched, next thing I would look at is to make sure that the mechanism that causes the bale to eject is not sticking. The part I find to stick the most and cause the bale to eject is the arm that has the tension disks on it for the twine. If that arm is not pulled back into place by its spring, then the baler will always be trying to eject the bale. I’ll get some pictures uploaded. ------------- Keeping Allis alive with: 2 B’s, 1 C, 6 CA’s, 2 WD’s, 1 WD45, 3 D15D’s, 1 D17 |
Posted By: NE GA Allis
Date Posted: 10 May 2020 at 2:27pm
 The blue arrow is pointing at the latch. The end pointing to the front of the baler moves up and down. To be latched it needs to be down as far as it can go. The red arrow points at the end of the trip arms. If you can pull it back and separate the trip arms any amount, then the latch is not properly latched. ------------- Keeping Allis alive with: 2 B’s, 1 C, 6 CA’s, 2 WD’s, 1 WD45, 3 D15D’s, 1 D17 |
Posted By: NE GA Allis
Date Posted: 10 May 2020 at 2:36pm
 On this photo, Blue Arrow: twine tension discs Green Arrow: spring that pulls the tension disc arm back to place. Just showing you this so you can verify that the spring is there and which direction it pulls on the arm. Red Arrow: this is the cam that turns and lifts the trip latches to eject the bale. If this is always rotating, then the tension disc arm is not back in its place. To my knowledge if you check in the two places I described, then I think you may find your problem. The timing for ejecting the bale starts when the press roller pulls the string in the baler and pulls on the tension disc arm, which allows the cam to turn and lift the trip latches. Hope this helps and some other members can verify this. ------------- Keeping Allis alive with: 2 B’s, 1 C, 6 CA’s, 2 WD’s, 1 WD45, 3 D15D’s, 1 D17 |
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 10 May 2020 at 4:46pm
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X2 on the latches and twine tension. Also there are springs behind the plungers near the latches that can be broken. You have to remove the castle nut and the plunger to look at them. GREASE everything that has a fitting and OIL everything that moves that doesn't have a grease fitting. The twine knife needs to be razor sharp. ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 10 May 2020 at 9:40pm
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On your white top, string does not have to catch in press roller for arm to go across. Ball of twine in up side down will cause it to eject bail early. Castle but PaulB talked about needs tighten just enough to pull head in to arm. MACK |
Posted By: js case
Date Posted: 11 May 2020 at 8:54am
| Thanks guys for all the information. Seems like I have inspected most of the items you have brought up but I will for sure go back and go through them all. I guess thinking about the situation I may have not described problem correctly. The bale does not build after it starts. Many times the chamber would pop open and not eject the bale. Hay would just feed through and out the back. After pulling the chamber open to remove small bale, I would push back so it was locked and then try again. Same thing would happen. Chamber would just pop open again. One thing I did not mention is that many of the springs were broke and I did have to replace them. I did not use factory springs but just matched as good as possible. I wonder if that could be some of my problems. Also how tight are the belts supposed to be. Thanks again for any info. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 11 May 2020 at 10:43am
| Is the brake tightened up? Always store loose. |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 11 May 2020 at 5:39pm
Try running across the ends of a few windrows, to start bales. Hay goes in parallel to the bale chamber, and starts to roll easier. Also remember that these balers like dry hay, better than wet, and like a full, double windrow, raked side by side, just barely touching each other... ------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 11 May 2020 at 9:50pm
|
Top belts should be tight, lower belts loose until there is enough hay in there to tighten them up. If the big gear on twine tube drive is turning while making a bale, it's going to open. Make sure the gear stop is hitting center on gear latch and not full of dirt. MACK |
Posted By: HD6GTOM
Date Posted: 12 May 2020 at 1:04am
| Where are you located? I been running them for 50+ years. I am in southern Iowa. If you are close I could come look at it. |
Posted By: js case
Date Posted: 15 May 2020 at 11:36am
| First of all , thanks for the again for the help. The brake was mentioned and I did take brake apart to check if frozen before i started. Tightened up but not sure how tight it should be. Kind of watched bolt threads to tighten. I am aware of the windrows. Usually was my job to rake when I was a kid. Had ac AC tedder/rake whatever that model was. Always had to roll two side by side. Kind of had fun doing that. Not sure to top belts are tight. I will check. I am north east of ST Louis so thanks for the offer to come and help but we are a good distance apart. I will keep trying. Worked with machines all my life but this this has me pulling my hair out. I am just missing something. Thanks JIm |
Posted By: js case
Date Posted: 21 May 2020 at 10:13am
| Looked at the baler again. According to the picture posted the green arrow shows a spring hooked to the rod and pulling back to the left. My baler has a spring hooked to that same rod on a cotter key and pulls to to right. Looks like a factory spring and factory mounting. Also have a triangle that pivots behind that rod and it has a hole in it like a spring would go into it. Also have a rod to the left up behind the gears with a hole in it like a spring should go into it. In the picture is the spring shown hooked to this rod ? Should there be a spring going from the rod to the triangle however that does not look correct to me. Looks like the triangle should do something . |
Posted By: NE GA Allis
Date Posted: 21 May 2020 at 12:20pm
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Hopefully someone with a white top baler can verify what you have. The photos I posted with the arrows are from a baler from the 50’s. It might be different. Also it may help the others if you posted photos of the string mechanism you have. ------------- Keeping Allis alive with: 2 B’s, 1 C, 6 CA’s, 2 WD’s, 1 WD45, 3 D15D’s, 1 D17 |
Posted By: js case
Date Posted: 26 May 2020 at 4:51pm
| Found a white top to look at. I am missing the spring which pulls to the left. It is hookd to the triangle I talked about and then to the rod I talked about. Could very well be the cause of all my problems. Sure wish I could find OEM springs. Guess I will just try to match up a spring. |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 26 May 2020 at 5:30pm
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Maybe Alex has them? He has a lot of NOS Allis parts. Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: NE GA Allis
Date Posted: 26 May 2020 at 5:38pm
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Agrimson tool Co. has the springs listed. Not sure if they still sell them or not. http://agrimsontool.com/springset.htm" rel="nofollow - http://agrimsontool.com/springset.htm
------------- Keeping Allis alive with: 2 B’s, 1 C, 6 CA’s, 2 WD’s, 1 WD45, 3 D15D’s, 1 D17 |
Posted By: dr p
Date Posted: 26 May 2020 at 7:15pm
| They do. Got a box full last fall |