6060 Filters
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=170126
Printed Date: 21 Aug 2025 at 10:45pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 6060 Filters
Posted By: Captain_Bill
Subject: 6060 Filters
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2020 at 12:46pm
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Greetings from Greeneville, TN. I just acquired a 6060 AWD, open station from my old boss. Before I joined the Marine Corps I worked on a farm in PA for 5 years. He had a 6060 that I drove on occasion. I haven't seen the tractor in 27 years now. It has been sitting in his junk pile for quite sometime, so I will have a fun time getting it working again. I automatically figured I should purchase a water pump, fan belt, alternator, batteries, and filters. I found a fuel filter for it on here, however is there an inline fuel filter as well, just like most diesel trucks? Typically, trucks have 2 filters. If it has the inline, what size? What about an air filter? It has the pre-cleaner option on it and wasn't planning on ordering a new bowl, unless it is cracked. But, there should be an air filter for it. Is it in an innie and an outie style? Where is the best place to get an oil and hyd filter? I checked ebay, but I am having a hard time making sure they've properly cross-referenced the after market parts. Of course I am going to get new tires for it as well, as they are probably in bad shape, but the tractor is free, all I have to do is pay the shipping. And fix it of course. The only thing I know to be wrong with it is it wasn't getting fuel to the engine, so my best guess is injectors. After that he parked it in his junk pile and upgraded his fleet. So, my next question is, where is the best place to get injectors?
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Replies:
Posted By: Jim.ME
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2020 at 1:31pm
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Welcome. The first "parts" I suggest you get are the service and operator's manuals for it. With those you can get familiar with the systems and maintenance. You can get the OEM manuals at the AGCOpubs website. Here is a link to it. http://www.agcopubs.com/default.aspx?model=6060&brand=44127&keywords=&searchForm=0" rel="nofollow - AGCOpubs That site will give you the right publication number to look for, if you don't want to purchase there. A note on service or technical manuals, if it says "packet" you get the pages to put in your own binder, "assembly" would be already put together in a binder. A packet is usually less expensive. You will see, and can purchase, a parts book as well on that site or you can use the AGCO Parts Books on line for free. Here is that link. https://apb.agcocorp.com/login.aspx?region=NorthAmerica" rel="nofollow - AGCO Parts Books .  Beware of some of the aftermarket reprints (many OEM manuals are reprints now for past tractors and equipment, but usually a decent quality). Some of the aftermarket ones are poor print, photo, and diagram quality due to scanning processes. Some of the vendors on this site may have manuals they can vouch for quality wise. Personal opinion is the I&T manuals are not the manuals you need to start with, often incomplete in details, but can provide some backup info sometimes. Used OEM manuals on eBay can be good buys at times. I would not start buying parts without assessing things first. Does it even turn over or is the engine stuck from setting? If it was parked for lack of fuel to the injectors the injection pump could be bad. After setting for "quite sometime" the injection pump may be stuck now as well. Be careful even turning it over as if the pump has stuck, it could be damaged more if turned. injpumpED may weigh in on your pump and injectors. Others will be along with more info for you. |
Posted By: Captain_Bill
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2020 at 1:41pm
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Thank you! Fuel gets to the injectors, just not to the engine. And I agree with you on the manuals. I found some on ebay. As far as buying parts, I am just buying parts I know will be a good idea to replace. For ex, the water pump might be fine now, but if it goes out this summer, I might be stuck or worse. Might as well change it now. I bet the fan belt is dry-rotted, so might as well replace it. All of the filters should be changed, as well as the fluids. This is just my starting point. I am hoping it will not turn in to an expensive project, although it might. I need 18.4 28s for the rear and 11.2 24s for the front. I think those alone will be expensive. I am hoping I won't need a new injector pump, hyd pump, turbo, etc. all expensive parts. Thanks again for the reply.
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Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2020 at 2:55pm
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If it's been sitting a long time, the fuel may have gummed up the pump and injectors. I see this all the time. It may appear to be pumping fuel up to the injectors, but my bet is the shut off inside pump is stuck, or pumping plungers are stuck, so the only fuel you see is just from the internal transfer pump, not the actual injection event. Injection systems aren't really designed to be user serviced without some experience. Most do-it-your-self-er cause more problems than they saved lol! Welcome to the forum, and the AC world. That should be a fantastic tractor! ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: Jim.ME
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2020 at 3:07pm
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You will want to go through the parts book to confirm these numbers, but here is a list of Allis Chalmers filter numbers I got from the book. Inner air filter # 70263434 Outer air filter # 70263435 Engine oil spin on filter # 74027979 Fuel water spin on separator filter # 74394407 Fuel spin on filter # 74028945 Hydraulic spin on filter # 70253952 prior to Serial Number 4383 a cleanable suction strainer was used. starting with serial number 4383 there is a spin on suction filter # 70270958 The fan belt # is 70263408 Those are the numbers in the book, you can use the link to AGCO Parts I gave you before to confirm them. Most if not all should be able to be crossed to different brands by a parts store like NAPA. No sense in my crossing them to another brand, as I don't know where you want to purchase them. You can also check the vendors that advertise on this site, they may have them. Not to say you aren't correct in saying it may need injectors, but here is another thought to consider. Even though the injection pump puts fuel to the injectors, seen by cracking the high pressure lines at the injectors while cranking, do you know it is developing enough pressure to open the injectors? A safety item in case you don't know about it. Keep hands and fingers clear of the high pressure fuel from the injection pump and injector nozzles. Fuel can be injected under the skin and cause serious health problems including death. Same for hydraulic systems under pressure. HTH Jim |
Posted By: Captain_Bill
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2020 at 3:53pm
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Thanks! I also sent you a private message. Just want to be clear, I have not yet seen or diagnosed the tractor. The problem, that caused the farmer to junk it was fuel not getting to the engine. So that was the original discrepancy. After it has been sitting years and years, I can't trust what it is doing now. Just my opinion, step one is to change all fluids, filters, belts, alt, water pump. Then, diagnose the fuel issue. My thinking here is that it after it has been sitting for a while, other issues will pop up once it is running. No sense in fixing the fuel issue and then running the tractor with bad fluids/filters. I am going to turn this over to a mechanic and let them figure out, because you are correct, I don't know injectors. I am taking a stab at what's wrong and buying parts because I don't want to delay the repair of the tractor, waiting on parts. Thanks again for your insight. I will let you know how it goes.
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Posted By: Captain_Bill
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2020 at 3:56pm
| Thanks for the info on parts! This is huge. I was gonna order them from sellers on ebay, but wanted to verify that what they said was true about compatibility. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2020 at 4:02pm
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Yea, I saw the pm, just figured I'd answer here to cover it. Guessing something happened to the pump long ago which is why it was parked. I'd certainly not do any fluids or filters until I got it running, unless the fluids are nasty looking. I'd focus my thoughts on getting the pump off and properly serviced, probably injectors too, since it's been sitting. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: DanWi
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2020 at 4:36pm
| One thing you should do along with having the injection pump and injectors serviced is go thru the fuel system drain the tank get fresh fuel in it and make sure you have a good flow of fuel all the way to the injection pump. With a good amount of fuel in the tank just hold a rag over the fuel fill and stick an air nozzle in there and you should be able to get a few pounds of pressure to push fuel out of the line. |
Posted By: victoryallis
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2020 at 7:58pm
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We got a good guy on this site that goes by tbran. Look him up he’ll take care of you. He’s from your part of the world. ------------- 8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760 |
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2020 at 8:19pm
Personally for me, step 1 would be to remove the fuel tank and get it cleaned out real good with myriatic acid. Quite common for algae to form in these tanks. Also clean the stuck off valve out at the bottom of the tank and make sure the line going to the filter has no obstructions - I've had a wasp in my fuel line before (wasn't alive!). Also get the pump rebuilt, especially if it has been sitting for a long time. When everything is good to that point, then go ahead with all of your maintenance. I would also recommend getting the alternator and starter rebuilt (or load tested at minimum), clean and boil out the rad as well. You are getting this tractor out of a junk pile and you are planning on using it regularly for farming. Go through it front to back first to make sure EVERYTHING is 100%. It may cost a more now, but that will help prevent downtime when you are in the field. Good luck and show us pictures! ------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080 |
Captain_Bill wrote:Posted By: skateboarder68
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2020 at 8:39pm
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Agree on taking the fitting off the bottom of the fuel tank and draining all old fuel. Make sure the rubber line going to the fuel filter isn’t restricted. Agco still has this fuel line if needed but the fitting on the bottom of the tank is notorious for blocking or restricting the flow of fuel. Especially on a tractor that has been sitting THIS is where I would start. Once you have good flow to the filter and you are replacing the fuel filter there are 2 plastic bleeder valves that you slightly unscrew to bleed air out of the system. One on the filter base and one on the injection pump itself. But start at the tank. Good luck! Edit: the bleeder valves are how a 6080 is setup, I am assuming a 6060 is the same. I could be wrong ------------- Orange & Silver still earnin their keep on the farm: R62, Series IV D17 nf, 185, 6080, 6080 fwa, 220, 1968 D21, 7045, DT240. |
Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2020 at 8:39pm
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Even though you are a long way off , Tn is a long state - we are pretty familiar with what you are dealing with - give us a call - you can PM me or call us -- bgequip.net … appreciate your service - will help you out... ------------- When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money.. |
Posted By: Captain_Bill
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2020 at 10:24pm
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I cannot tell you all how much I appreciate your time and advice. I going to take each of your recommendations. So far, I’ve ordered an alternator, water pump and fan belt. I still need to order a fuel filter, oil filter, had filter and air filter. I will hold off on the injectors and pump until we start at the tank and work our way from there toward the injectors. My reason for ordering parts before I even see the tractor is because I don’t want any delays once work begins. I was in the fighter plane biz in the Marine Corps and the worst thing was waiting on parts to fix planes. I’ll keep everyone posted and post some photos. I’m really looking fwd to being reunited with this tractor. Quick question: is there an in-line fuel filter on my tractor as well as a spin type? If so, what size is that in-line? I found and have ordered the spin on fuel filter. Thanks again! |
Posted By: Jim.ME
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2020 at 5:53am
| The parts book shows the two fuel filters I posted the numbers of for you, both are spin ons. One is called the fuel water separator and is first in the fuel line coming from the tank. After that, also in the fuel line, is the fuel filter, located prior to the fuel line connecting to the pump. It is a set up similar to a lot of trucks. There is no fuel tank filter or screen shown in the parts diagrams. The spin ons are in line filters, just not the little ones you have a hose stuck on both ends of, if that is what you are looking for. You can review all the parts of the fuel system if you go to the parts book at the link I posted for you. If it ends up having one of those little filters it was added by someone, not a factory set up, I would say. |
Posted By: Captain_Bill
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2020 at 8:46am
| Thank you very much for this info! |