Allis B sleeve oring
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=167314
Printed Date: 23 Aug 2025 at 3:43pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Allis B sleeve oring
Posted By: gman54313
Subject: Allis B sleeve oring
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2020 at 2:23pm
I started this project of repairing my old 1940 allis B because it was leaking rad fluid into the oil. Soon found the sleeve O-rings to be leaking. OK so I commence to tear the engine down and fix/repair what needs to be fixed and repaired with a lot of help from this forum. Much thanks. Today I had some time to install my new sleeves and while cleaning the block webbing where the sleeve o-ring would seat I notice somewhat massive corrosion on the surface where the O-ring's may be seated. My question is by looking at the pics do you think this is a issue? is there a product I can use to build this area up. I suppose I could do an exact measurement to see exactly where the o-ring surface should be but looking at the groove in the sleeve there is a lot of movement for the o-ring. I guess I am looking for some advise from the experienced.  
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Replies:
Posted By: gman54313
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2020 at 2:25pm
| I should mention all four holes look pretty much the same. |
Posted By: Boss Man
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2020 at 4:31pm
| Pitting doesn't look that bad in the pic. Should be able to install new o-rings and run it. I've used Devcon, which is a liquid steel similar to JB Weld, to fill pits. If they get real bad a machine shop can bore the block and install a new lower deck. |
Posted By: gman54313
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2020 at 8:40pm
| Thanks boss man do you have any idea of the temp. inside the block? The devcon I looked at says 250 F is this the same devcon you used to fill in. |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2020 at 9:02pm
| Do you all see the pictures I see? Looks like a cylinder head with one valve removed. Or M I loosen it? MACK |
Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2020 at 9:59pm
| Mack, it sure looked like a burnt valve but it can't be because it's the block and not the head. Wonder if there is a timing issue? |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2020 at 10:24pm
| The temperature of those O-rings should pretty much be whatever the coolant is...…….160 to 180 degrees F. |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2020 at 7:14am
If you can put the sleeves all the way down and rotate them 360 degrees by hand you can fill the voids with bondo or JB weld and sand/ flapper wheel back to where you can again rotate the sleeves 360 degrees. It looks very clean but does not look like it has been flapper wheel sanded.
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Posted By: Boss Man
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2020 at 7:15am
I see a upper deck with the counter bore, the lower deck with the next sleeve exposed. Not sure how you're getting valves. Need a bigger screen maybe? lol
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MACK wrote:Posted By: Boss Man
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2020 at 7:16am
Been a few years, but it sounds right. Like Doc said temp should be about the same as the water.
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Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2020 at 9:55am
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gman, To me the block looks very very clean! Nice work. (Mack ,I also see a block with the sleeve removed.) I must admit that I am not a good judge of the corrosion vs sealing, but from the pictures I might use the recommended sealer and fill those voids. sand smooth. You will probably sleep better at night. Thanks for the update on your B! Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2020 at 10:03am
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MACK, bit of an optical illusion. I saw the same thing until I studied it awhile. |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2020 at 11:41am
| The rough edge of the chamfer could very well tear the O ring going in. That should all be smooth. The sleeve does not want to be tight going in without the O rings. |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2020 at 11:50am
You put wet sleeves in at 160 to 180 degrees? I never had a problem removing them from the pack and installing them at the room temperature I was working in at the time be it winter or summer.. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2020 at 3:09pm
| LOL! First MACK,then Dick. You guys are loosing it! Doc was referring to what temp the repair patching mat'l needed to stand,nothing about installing temp. |
Posted By: gman54313
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2020 at 5:40pm
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Thanks to everyone for their input and recommendations. This afternoon I fired up the propane heater in my garage and mixed up some JB weld and applied to the surface to fill in the rough surface. I will let it cure and take the round flapper sander to it and refit my sleeves. Incidentally I had all four sleeves fitting in the block nicely and was able to rotate them 360 degrees very easily. I will just have to re-sand the JB weld to get them to fit again, but as mentioned earlier I will sleep better. Cheers Greg AKA Gman |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2020 at 9:09pm
| The JB weld will not stay in the groves. If it don't fall out when you smooth the surface, it will later. MACK |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2020 at 9:21pm
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Greg, MACK and others have way more experience than I do. I would at this point be pondering my next moves?? I have done these same things. I move out on something that I think is right and along comes a different idea. From what you have said and done you will get through this issue! Your work fitting the sleeves and checking the fits is right on. Good job! Its a lot of cleaning to get them to fit and seat properly. I had a question. The inside to your water chamber (block) looks way cleaner than the ones I have seen. Anything special you did in there? Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: gman54313
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2020 at 7:28am
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Chris, the water chamber was basically flushed and air blown I was amazed at how rough the casting is but I guess that's the way it was 80 years ago. Greg |
Posted By: Fred in Pa
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2020 at 11:42am
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HYLOMAR gasket sealer n maker . Do a search on it and get the correct type u need for ORINGS n LIGUIDS . Used it for over 30 years it works if you use it correct way on the gas engine . Diesels I always do repair sleeves in bottom if ate out to bad . ------------- He who dies with the most toys is, nonetheless ,still dead. If all else fails ,Read all that is PRINTED. |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2020 at 4:29pm
| The Oliver Company sent a bulletin to all there dealer in the 1960's to use bondo to repair the bottom bore. This was when they were having a problem with deep eating out of the top of the bore. Uncle owned an Oliver dealership and I was installing new sleeves and ask him if the block needed to be replaced. I personally have not seen an Allis block eat out as bad as a couple Oliver blocks I worked on. I have also used JB weld on both Allis blocks and an Oliver block with out a problem. I am sure they're several other types that will work just as well. These happen to be two I have used without any problems. |
Posted By: gman54313
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2020 at 9:19pm
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Fred, Thank you for your feedback I went to Hylomar's website and I think the Hylomar RED 100 is the right product, but I will call them tomorrow to make sure. Thanks Greg |
Posted By: gman54313
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2020 at 9:23pm
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Dick L. Thank you for your feedback. I asked my machinist today what he would use and he told me JB or similar. I am interested in the Hylomar red 100 this might be an option if when I sand out the JB if it falls out. Thanks Greg |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2020 at 1:55pm
| Belzona dealer told me their product was under Cat part# used to "repair" counter bores. |
Posted By: Clay
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2020 at 6:37pm
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I have used Belzona Super Metal to do many counter bores. My dad and I did our 180 diesel back in the mid 80's. Still working great with no leakage.
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Posted By: gman54313
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2020 at 8:55pm
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Fred, I managed to contact the Hylomar customer service and after 10 minutes of detailed information of what I was looking for Hylomar recommended the Hylomar RED 100. Thank you for the tip greg |