185 Hydraulic Cylinder Removal.
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=164142
Printed Date: 27 Jul 2025 at 1:32am
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Topic: 185 Hydraulic Cylinder Removal.
Posted By: DaveB3020
Subject: 185 Hydraulic Cylinder Removal.
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2019 at 7:42am
| HELP!! My 185 has a leak in the left, 3 point cylinder. I am planning to rebuild it so, I started to take it off the tractor. Not as simple as that as I learned. After I finally got the spring clip off the forward pin, I found that neither the cylinder or the forward pin will come off. I'm guessing corrosion. Can someone who has done this please tell me how the got the cylinder off? |
Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2019 at 8:33am
| Take it apart in chassis and reseal it. Not easy, but easier than fitting a stuck lower pin. |
Posted By: Gatz in NE
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2019 at 8:34am
|
Spray some penetrant where the pin is in the cylinder end, then if you can get a small pin or punch (1/8" ?) into the hole where the hair-pin clip came out and rotate the fwd pin back and forth; it might loosen it up. Also, if you can get a slim pry bar or bent screwdriver behind the pin next to the diff housing, then tap the fwd pin in a little & pry back out to loosen it that way. Short of that, weld a nut or "ring" of some kind, something to grab onto, on the exposed end of that pin.
|
Posted By: allisbred
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2019 at 8:44am
| Start soaking with penetrating oil asap. Take the back side off first with a small vice and sockets, this will allow more room for the front side.. Try not to rush or you may damage the housing. For the front, I used a tie rod end fork and kept adding washers as it started to move so I didn’t have to use the torch. It worked for the last (2) that needed repaired. I polished the living heck out of them on a lathe before reassembling. The pins from the factory were same size as bore. |
Posted By: allisbred
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2019 at 8:49am
| I like Dr Allis’s idea! That is probably better than the effort removing the front pin. |
Posted By: DaveB3020
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2019 at 9:01am
|
Thanks for the help. I'm not sure how you used the tie rod end. Can you give more detail please? |
Posted By: DaveB3020
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2019 at 9:04am
| I considered rebuilding the cylinder in chassis but, it requires me to get into the cylinder through the hose port which is located on top of the cylinder and since the cylinder will not drop down very far, the room is very limited. So I guess I'm asking, is there enough room? |
Posted By: allisbred
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2019 at 9:15am
| The tool has a very steep angle (wedge), and a rod screwed in to beat on with a hammer. I worked from the front side of the tire and removed the hydraulic filter for more clearance( if working on right side cylinder). |
Posted By: DaveB3020
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2019 at 9:55am
| allisbred- I'm assuming this is a tool you fabricated? Can you send me a pic? |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2019 at 10:24am
| Left cylinder rebuilding in chassis has been done before, YES. |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2019 at 10:33am
Think he's just talking about a tool used to pop out tie rods...
|
DaveB3020 wrote:Posted By: allisbred
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2019 at 11:53am
| Yes, just a purchased automotive tool. This is no miracle tool, still needs driven out. Im not smart enough to post a picture on here though my phone. Reworking cylinder without removing would still be best, even if you need to block up the tractor to give a little extra height. I have always managed to get the pins out, did the 200 last year a was the easiest, took a few hours on the 2 of the 185’s with a few bad words but did succeed without damage to the tractor or cylinders. |
Posted By: DaveB3020
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2019 at 11:56am
|
Are you talking about a pickle fork? |
Posted By: allisbred
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2019 at 12:33pm
| Yes—can’t see your photo, most people don’t know what they are calling them a pickle fork. I use them often when driving out pins. This will help you from beating up the ends even though they are fairly hard pins. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2019 at 5:40pm
 ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: DaveB3020
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2019 at 8:37am
|
I have an update on removing the pins from the forward end of the 3 point hitch hydraulic cylinders. After you know how, it is actually fairly easy. Left cylinder: (Spray everything with PB Blaster) First: For both cylinders, remove the forward pins first. Removing the rear pins will make it hard to remove the forward pins because it binds them which makes it hard to punch out. Second: Find the small access hole (about the diameter of a pencil) at the bottom of the housing that holds the pin. This hole is there to give you access to the spring clip that holds the pin. Mine were filled with mud which almost made the hole hard to see when you are looking for the first time. While lying on your back, use a punch and hammer the spring clip upward. The top of the spring clip will poke out the top of the housing where you can grab and remove it. Third: Remove the batteries and the battery box (not as many bolts as I originally thought). This will give you access to the pin. Use a hammer to drive a chisel between the end of the pin and the housing. That wedging motion will start driving the head of the pin toward the left wheel. Eventually, your chisel will push the pin as far as it can because your chisel will reach its maximum diameter. You can then insert a second chisel in the space you just created when the pin moved. Using the first chisel, you can drive the pin until it reaches the mounting hole. At this point the pin is flush with the hole. using only one chisel, I placed the tip of the chisel on the pin at a diagonal. Striking the chisel on the side, due to limitations of the diagonal movement, I was only able to get the pin to move a short distance but enough to create a recess in the mounting hole. Using an everyday nut from the bottom of a toolbox as a spacer, I set this nut inside the recess of the hole and continued the diagonal motion with the chisel until the pin was almost out. I was now able to grab the pin with channellocks and work the pin out. The right side is exactly the same with the exception of removing the battery box. Note: A pickle fork will not fit into the housing to drive out the pin but, that idea gave me the direction to get this done. Note: If you plan to reuse these pins, polish them a lot and grease them heavily before reinstalling. Note: I will be more that happy to take phone calls from you to help. This was initially a pain but now that I have done it, it is not that bad. 502-553-6895 |
Posted By: coggonobrien
Date Posted: 17 Sep 2019 at 12:12pm
| We were successful in rebuilding ours following the Dr's instructions |