7060 transmission brake
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=159199
Printed Date: 27 Jul 2025 at 5:21pm
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Topic: 7060 transmission brake
Posted By: Still.learning
Subject: 7060 transmission brake
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2019 at 5:01am
| Hello, was wondering if anyone has replaced a transmission brake assembly by removing hydraulic pump and working through that opening. Thanks |
Replies:
Posted By: GregStremel
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2019 at 6:23am
| Yes, my brother has done it on a 7060. Obviously must be done by touch. But it was MUCH easier than taking tractor apart. |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2019 at 6:33am
| Make sure all free play is out of clutch, no thick floor mat under pedal, and bushing is not worn out in linkage before you go to that oily job. I have never saw one worn out. MACK |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2019 at 7:09am
| Mack is right. I have NEVER replaced a tranny brake. It is always worn/maladjusted linkage on the clutch pedal. |
Posted By: Alvin M
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2019 at 8:14am
| front of cable has a u bolt slide it back so fork has just a little play a big washer I only replaced one brake disc that tractor was on big spreader used trans brake to stop tractor they don't wear out if used right I replaced a lot of brass bushings |
Posted By: Ben (MI)
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2019 at 8:38am
|
When this discussion is complete, PLEASE put it on the knowledge database forum! Thank you. ------------- Part time farming with a 1980 7060 and 1984 F3 hydro. |
Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2019 at 7:09pm
| I did one on a 7060 once that way. It was a tedious job,but if I would have had to do another one the next day,it probably would have been easier. This particular tractor had sheared the positioning pin in the piston. |
Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2019 at 8:02pm
 These pieces were out of an 8030. I had the transmission out of that tractor. Long arms help if you are going to do it up through the hole.
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Posted By: Still.learning
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2019 at 8:44pm
| Thanks for the advice and replies. I put gauges in the ports like the books says and I have 200 psi at both ports and one goes to 0 psi when clutch is depressed. Installed a new cable from the foot pedal to the valve and took all the free play out with the u bolt adjustment, bushings were ok. With the foot pedal depressed, I took a prybar and tried to pull the spool out further, but there was no movement. Will put a gauge on the line as close to the transmission brake fitting as I can, I assume it should also read 200 psi. , if it does then would you think the brake needs replaced? Thanks |
Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2019 at 9:28pm
| It's always possible to have warped clutch plates in the power director. If that's the case,then that small brake disc can't stop the clutch pack from turning very easily. |
Posted By: Still.learning
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2019 at 8:38am
| Thanks for the reply, as of now, I plan on changing the $40 pad and if that doesn’t stop the grinding, split it at the engine and fix power director clutches. Make sense to you? Thanks |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2019 at 7:16am
| Doesn't make good sense to me. I have changed ONE of those tranny brakes in the last 40 yrs and it wasn't fun. You have to drain all the transmission oil anyway to perform what you want to do. Why wouldn't you then remove the sump underneath the Power Director clutch and give the clutch a visual physical at EVERY possible spot to see if there is any space differences in the discs and separator plates ?? This means rotating the clutch 360 degrees to see all viewing areas. You already have the oil drained. All it will require is the removal of eight 3/8" bolts and some RTV to reseal when done. If you find something suspect, the brake replacement maybe isn't needed. It seems to me the late black belly units had a lube hole drilled in something that may have actually made the brake a little less effective than an older version ?? I'd have to research that thought. That's what I'd be doing, but you do whatever you want. |
Posted By: Leon B MO
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2019 at 7:45am
|
Two years ago I bought a 7060 that would grind no matter how warm the oil was. Wound up removing sump plate and found the spaces between clutch plates were eradic. Split tractor and found two of the waffer springs had collasped. Now at first start up, it will want to grind a bit until the oil warms up. But I can live with that. Good luck with your unit. Leon B Mo ------------- Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself". |
Posted By: Still.learning
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2019 at 11:46pm
| Hello, you guys were right. I finally found time to work on the 7060 with the air temperature now at 60 degrees. Left the oil get hot instead of just warm and the grinding of the gears decreased immensely. Don't need to split it yet. Thanks to all. |