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CA Wheel Hardware Question

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=155677
Printed Date: 21 Aug 2025 at 12:29pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: CA Wheel Hardware Question
Posted By: 1955CA
Subject: CA Wheel Hardware Question
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2018 at 4:47pm
After I finished snow plowing my yard today I took a minute to look at my CA. 

I'm not sure what these are called, but should only three of them have the square head locks for the spin-out rims or should all four? I only have three of the square heads on each side so wondering if someone broke them off or if it is supposed to be like that?

I got all the wheel bolts loose but never attempted those square heads yet. One is broke off but you can still see part of it.

Can any of these still be bought new or do I have to find salvage if I can't get those square heads out?

The rims and center hubs are worse than I thought too. But I know I can get new rims. Not sure about the centers though either.



Replies:
Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2018 at 4:49pm
Here is the one that has no square head. It is the same on both rear rims. Is this right?


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2018 at 4:50pm
And my rims are worse than I though. Tractor has been sitting and a chunk of rust fell off since the last time I looked at it. Now I can touch the tube, LOL.


Posted By: littlemarv
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2018 at 5:13pm
Right or wrong, my CA is the same way.

-------------
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H


Posted By: Randy WI
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2018 at 5:32pm
Mine has the same setup and my eccentrics are froze and will not loosen up grr. Randy


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2018 at 5:33pm
Oh OK. Maybe there are only three of the four that are supposed to have the heads then.

I wasn't sure if maybe somebody broke them off.

I looked at all the stop bodies that are listed on Steiner's, Oklahoma Tractor and Yesterday's Tractor but none of them look like what I have.


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2018 at 5:35pm
Thanks Littlemarv.

Randy....do you think they can be heated with a torch to free them up?


Posted By: Wayne180d
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2018 at 6:37pm
They only have 3 and a blank.


Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2018 at 7:29pm
I freed up a CA and a WD45 set. I am not sure how I went about it as it was several years ago. I am sure oil, heat and a hammer would have been involved as it is how I work on rusted fast moving parts.


Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2018 at 7:35pm
I found this for you. I didn't watch all the video but did watch enough to confirm the use of a vise and a hammer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2qXT3GGc5w" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2qXT3GGc5w


Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2018 at 7:39pm
Only three have a X entries one is a blank. You put that one on first. The other three have a square piece with a cutout that sits against the excentric bolt. Don't loose the little rub block when you take it apart. On one of my tractors I had to take all the bolts out that hold them to the wheel center lay the assembly flat on the ground and beat the center out of the rim. Once out it was fairly easy to loosten them up in the vise with a torch hammer and wrench.


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2018 at 7:41pm
Thanks a lot everyone. I should be able to get it all apart. I just hope the center isn't too far gone where those bolt on. I see lots of scale at the edges.

A friend of mine was going to patch my rims, but They may be too far gone. But at least I can get new rims.


Posted By: Walter(MO)
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2018 at 8:09pm
CA, D10, & D12 only has three eccentrics.  I took the two bolts out that hold the clamp to the center and slide back on the rail so I could remove the clamp from the rail.  You will need to tap the bolts with nuts loose so you can get the bolts out.  This allows your to tap with hammer so you don't damage the threads.  After removing bolts you may have to tap the clamp to slide it back on the rail far enough to work the clamp out with your hands.  Remove one clamp, freed the pin and put back in before you do no. 2 & 3.  To loosen the eccentric pin soak with penetrating oil. Remove wire snap ring so you can tap with hammer back an forth until pin comes out.  Polish off all the rust and when clean resemble with anti seize.  


Posted By: Rayhowling
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2018 at 8:44pm
I agree with Walter(MO) on taking the eccentrics apart and using anti seize on the nuts and bolts. We still have a 1956 Allis CA that my Dad bought new and the first 10 years we would put a mounted sickle mower to mow hay and then spin the wheels out to cultivate corn in 36 inch rows and in a couple days spin wheels back in to cut more grass for hay. Some times the wheels would get spoon in and out 4 to 6 times a year. By keeping the eccentrics oiled or anti seize will keep them free. The tractor is also stored in a shed when not in use out of the weather. The CA is still used for running grain augers and light work. A handy little tractor.


Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 18 Nov 2018 at 8:21am
Walter(MO) is completely correct.
Only thing about anti-seize is that you DO NOT put any on the blocks at all.  ONLY on the bolts and nuts and the hole that the eccentric goes through.
Make it a practice to move them every spring when you're doing your early maintenance.  I do ALL of my tractors spring & fall.

Now, down to brass tacks,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Take all the bolts and nuts off the eccentrics WITH the tractor blocked up.  You don't want it falling over on you when you are taking the eccentrics off.  I use a chunk of good 1/2" rope to tie it to the tractor final so it can't fall over.  A chain hoist is even better if you can do that.  I get em all LOOSE first, but leave the nuts on the other 3.  Take just one off at a time.  As stated, without the bolts in place, it'll slide down the rail and come off easily.  About the time you get the second one off, the others will just fall off and the tire will fall also.  BE CAREFUL.
Now the eeeeeasy part,,,,,,, Got a wood heating stove anywhere?  If not, you just start a campfire.  Got it going good?  Now just toss them in there, minus the small moveable eccentric block.  Leave them in there till the fire dies out.  I wait till the next day.  Now you can use two old junky screwdrivers to take the snap ring off and the eccentric pin out.  Shine all the parts up with a wire wheel and then use anti-seize on the pin so it'll move easily next time.

The wood stove is by far the EASIEST way to get everything loose.  The whole thing will literally fall apart after you get the snap ring off the back.  I have spent a LOT OF TIME pounding, twisting, cursing and a lot of different juices trying to get them loose with very little success.  This works and I won't do it any other way!!  Success speaks for itself!  You can thank me later.

Let us know how you come out.


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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 18 Nov 2018 at 9:27am
Well, I'm in luck Ted. I heat with wood! Thanks for the tip!

So do I just set them on top of the woodstove or or put them right inside?


Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 18 Nov 2018 at 6:33pm
Originally posted by 1955CA 1955CA wrote:

Well, I'm in luck Ted. I heat with wood! Thanks for the tip!

So do I just set them on top of the woodstove or or put them right inside?


I put mine in the woodstove for the night.  Take them out in the morning and tap the locks with a hammer to loosen up.  It saves a lot of cursing and frustration!


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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080


Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 18 Nov 2018 at 10:13pm
Yep as Myron (DSeeries4) says, throw them right into the fire.  The heat just does something to the rust and it just falls away.  You'll be amazed!!
As long as you're heating with wood, you could just do one or two a day if you didn't want to take them all off at once.  Just a thought.


-------------
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17


Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2018 at 8:35pm
Let me know how you come out when you're done.


-------------
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17


Posted By: 1955CA
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2018 at 8:46pm
OK Ted. Won't be for a bit yet. I'm still working lots of hours so not much time to play at the moment. But it was good doing the research here. I learned lots again. The members here and this site are great!


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 24 Nov 2018 at 1:27pm
Folks,
Brute force and awkwardness work real good on any of these eccentrics, if they haven't been off in a while!
I agree with taking the wheel apart. Then using your best method for freeing them up.

Regards,
 Chris


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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.



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