200 engine overhaul kit question
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=154787
Printed Date: 08 May 2025 at 2:54pm
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Topic: 200 engine overhaul kit question
Posted By: beard66
Subject: 200 engine overhaul kit question
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2018 at 3:04pm
I've been looking at rebuild kits for my ac 200. I went to use it yesterday and discovered that the oil was way over full and the radiator was way low. I haven't investigated any further but I fear the sleeves have went bad. Had this same problem a few years ago with my 7000.
My question is will a rebuild kit for a 7010, 7020, and an 8010 work for a 200. I looked on agkits.com and this kit is what they had listed when I searched for a 200. I know they are all 301 engines but didn't know if the parts were all interchangeable. Thanks for any help in advance!
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Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2018 at 3:49pm
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Parts are all interchangeable and those kits should be 15 to 1 compression ratio. Personally, when I overhaul a 200 and I know it isn't a heavy use tillage tractor, I install a 180/185/190/190XT overhaul kit. These should be 16 to 1 compression and will start better when cold. You do whatever you want.
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Posted By: beard66
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2018 at 5:06pm
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Thanks Dr. The kit I was actually looking at is 16 to 1 compression and has the slotted main bearings. Just for curiosity, will I lose any power if I use it? I mostly use the tractor for lighter work but occasionally I pull a 21 ft. Disk and an 11 shank chisel with it. I'm hoping to still have enough power to do so.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2018 at 5:19pm
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Power is based upon fuel delivery and turbo boost. You will see no change in power with 16 to 1 versus what should be in it now at 15 to 1. Those other models 7000 and up need to be 15 to 1, so I question the suppliers information accuracy.
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Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2018 at 12:22pm
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You may want to check to see if you have a copper sleeve head or not. Those tractors you listed will all have copper sleeve heads, so that means they do not come with replacement copper washers for the injectors. Not a huge expense, but still inconvenient when you are in the final stages of putting things back together. Check your bottom bores in your block where the o-rings seat. There's a good chance they will be pitted and need to be repaired. You can have them bored and sleeved, or you can also use a good epoxy to smooth it out, then use an engine hone to take all the excess off and smooth the surface (I did this to mine and it has held up for 1000 hrs and 8 years since I did it). I went with the high compression kit from Reliance, if I remember correctly. One of the big differences in the late kits vs earlier kits is I believe they left more clearance on the upper portion of the piston for the later turbo engines to reduce the risk of galling from thermal expansion.
Hurst
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1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours
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Posted By: beard66
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2018 at 8:18pm
So Monday I took the oil pan off the tractor and cleaned the lower end of the engine off and started looking for leaks. Didn't see anything right away so I left it till Saturday with coolant still in it to hopefully find something leaking. Didn't see any drips on the sleeves.
I decided to pressurize the coolant system to see if that would help finding the leak. Before I did I unhooked the oil lines from the oil cooler hoping it would just be that and not a sleeve.
I put 10 pounds of pressure on it and even after plugging in the block heater I only saw one drop of coolant on the #2 sleeve. Nothing ever leaked out of the cooler.
I'm wondering if I've got something else leaking besides the sleeve. It just seemed like a small leak for how much coolant that was in the oil. I put around 2 gallons of coolant back in it to fill it up and the oil was way over full.
Is there any other places it could be getting in? I thought maybe a head gasket. Sorry for the long post, just trying to tell you everything I've done so far.
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Posted By: JC-WI
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2018 at 10:37pm
just a thought, maybe a pin holed sleeve, and piston sitting right on it and restricting it to a slow drip...
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2018 at 10:50pm
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pressure when cold will leak worse....Don't use the heater
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Posted By: beard66
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2018 at 12:29am
Thanks to jc and steve! The Piston in the sleeve where I saw the drop of coolant was towards the top of the stroke when I finally saw it. I turned the engine till it was all the way up after that with no real change. So I guess what I'm asking is it more common to have pinholes at the bottom or top of the sleeve or can they be anywhere in between. I only had this happen one time before on my 7000 where multiple sleeves had holes but they were all down by the bottom close to the o rings.
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2018 at 9:28am
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You are leaving pressure applied for at least a day,right? Takes time.
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Posted By: beard66
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2018 at 11:23am
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No i only had it pumped up about 4 hours and probably only two hours before I plugged it in and warmed it up. I didn't realize it needed to be a whole day. It's too late now to try anything else as I have drained the coolant and removed the oil cooler and started disassembling the top end. I'll update this post later after I find the problem. Thanks for all the help so far everyone!
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2018 at 11:47am
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I had a 220 one time that dumped a fair amount of coolant in the oil. It was obvious from the radiator being low and the shaving cream foam under the valve cover. Removed the oil pan and could see nothing dripping. Pressurized the cooling system to 12 psi and left it overnight. Nothing was dripping the next morning. Plugged in the block heater, and finally, after another 6 or 8 hrs we got some dripping around one sleeve. Not every engine reacts the same to the leak test. Antifreeze leaks easier than water, so don't expect water to always leak.
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Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 04 Nov 2018 at 11:47am
Think i would be checking the head and any soft plugs in the rocker area also - these might show up hot where sleeve leaks would be cold
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 05 Nov 2018 at 9:23am
you have pulled the pan - you are well on the way labor wise - just pull the head and check the sleeves and everything else. then make the decision. You might be ok with a set of orings and gaskets to a inframe… at least you will know. Antifreeze in the oil will lead to brg failure...
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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