Farm Equipment - B with issues

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B with issues

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=154773
Printed Date: 05 Nov 2025 at 2:35pm
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Topic: B with issues

Posted By: Allis in wyoming
Subject: B with issues
Date Posted: 12 Oct 2018 at 10:31pm

Hey all I'm new here but have gotten lots of knowledge from the discussionsin the past year. My question is I have an early OHV engine we have replaced the head gasket, valve train and carb all were shot. Also replaced coil plugs wires points condenser, basic tune up.with a light over haul. Now I got it running but it will only run 3-5 minutes then dies. Let it sit for 15 minutes and it will run another3-5 minutes and so on. The cab is still full of fuel still have full volts at the coil. Could it be a valve lash issue? I grasping at straws can't get anything to work. Any help is greatly appreciated and will to try any tips or suggestions. Thank you for all the help

Replies:

Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2018 at 5:19am

Welcome to the forum!!!

My guess would be either a bad coil or condenser. Most of the newer ones are made in China and the quality is not good. I went through 3 condensers on one of WD45's a few years ago, before I switched it over to Pertronix.

If it has a distributer, it's either not a real early B or someone has switched it from a mag. I believe they switched production tractors from magnetos to distributers sometime in the early 50's.

You should be able to tell the year by the serial number, right near the shifter.

Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2018 at 7:06am

As soon as it dies quickly pull a plug wire off and see if it will jump spark to the plug end. If you have spark it most likely will be a fuel obstruction somewhere. I have found obstructions in the sediment bowl neck that screws into the tank that would only let small a amount gas thru. Quick check for that is to remove the plug from the bottom of the carburetor to watch the flow. You need a steady flow of gas after the amount of gas the bowl holds comes out.

Posted By: Allis in wyoming
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2018 at 7:56am

Thanks guys, I will go back over the basics on it again today, I feel like I have been through the ignition and fuel system so many times it just can't be in there but it is the only areas that make sense. If I post the VIN would you be,able you be able to tell me what more about the tractor? This is my first Allis, we had Farmall on the farm/ranch in ND and grew up with an M. This little Allis is perfect for the small paddocks we have at our new ranch in Wyoming. I love the tractor but it seem more finicky than the on Farmall M. Thanks again for your help I will look over those areas again

Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2018 at 8:01am

From the serial number, we can tell you the year it was manufactured, but not much more. Other than the very early (Waukesha engine)B, they all had basically the same engine.

Posted By: chaskaduo
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2018 at 8:15am

Rubber fuel line collapsing, gas tank cap not venting, crud sucking to the gas tank outlet then releasing after a bit ???

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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp

Posted By: wfmurray
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2018 at 9:29am

My B cut off and it was etyhol gas had sealed screen in the sediment bowel.

Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2018 at 9:30am

6 volt coil and 12 volt battery? That 15 minute recovery time is typical for an overheating coil and also for a gas tank cap that isn't venting. A modern car cap won't vent. NAPA still sells venting caps.

Maybe the shop manual will help:
http://geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/Allis-Chalmers-G-B-C-CA-Service.pdf" rel="nofollow - http://geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/Allis-Chalmers-G-B-C-CA-Service.pdf

Gerald J.

Posted By: Allis in wyoming
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2018 at 10:50pm

Thanks for all the great tips and help, and the manual! I didn't get to work on it today as there was a blizzard moving in tonight and I had to get the new hay shed enclosed before it hit. I will try all these tip in the shop tomorrow and let you all know if I find anything.

Posted By: bradley6874
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2018 at 6:03am

When it cuts off does it stumble then die or just cut off try playing with the choke when it starts to die if you can keep it trying to run it's fuel if the choke doesn't change anything it's probly fire

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You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul

Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2018 at 10:41am

If you can keep it running by giving it choke then also consider an intake leak. As things heat up a leak can form at the intake and it will start sucking in air. You can give it a little propane from a torch at the junction of the intake at the block and if the engine RPM speeds up then you have a leak.

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1957 WD45 dad's first AC

1968 one-seventy

1956 F40 Ferguson

Posted By: Allis in wyoming
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2018 at 6:57pm

Thanks for all the help and ideas, I took a hard look at it today and took off the oil line going to the,distributor housing, it was plugged solid, Cleaned it up and put it back together runs like a champ for the moment.

Posted By: HoughMade
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2018 at 9:39pm

Seeing as how the early tractors with the same engine didn’t even have that oil line, it seems like that would not cause it to cut out, but here’s to hoping it runs fine for you.

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1951 B