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WD45 engine locked

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=153552
Printed Date: 21 Aug 2025 at 3:39pm
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Topic: WD45 engine locked
Posted By: tonyk
Subject: WD45 engine locked
Date Posted: 31 Aug 2018 at 12:12pm
Water drained from the carburetor into the engine block and I drained it, but engine is locked. tried pulling tractor slowly with my truck and shifting into gear, but it would not engage. Any ideas?



Replies:
Posted By: Jim Hancock
Date Posted: 31 Aug 2018 at 12:50pm
Hi Tony. 
Welcome to the forum. 
Pull the plugs and squirt transmission fluid in there and let it sit a day or two. 
Put it in 3rd or 4th gear and engage the  hand clutch. 
Every time you go by the tractor, rock it by turning the rear wheel and watch for the fan blades to turn. 
When they do, it'll be free. Change the oil and filter when you're about ready to fire it up. HTH. 


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How blessed we are by HIS GRACE!


Posted By: HoughMade
Date Posted: 31 Aug 2018 at 1:27pm
Yep, that's the way to do it.  If iy was recently free it could only take a few days.  If it's been a while, then a couple of weeks of this may be necessary.

Slow and steady wins the race.  I wouldn't be pull starting it just yet.


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1951 B


Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 31 Aug 2018 at 9:43pm
Forcing a stuck engine to turn by pulling it or shoving a rear tire can cause serious damage by bending the connecting rods that are trying to push a piston up. The bent rod adds friction to the piston and the connecting rod bearing and is weakened and with the engine running can break and the remains of the piston rod often poke a hole in the side of the block or the oil pan.

Its much better to take the head off and add rust solvents and to drop the crank shaft and pull down on the connecting rods or pull the piston stuck to the sleeve and press the piston down with hydraulic press or hammer and block of wood.

Gerald J.


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 31 Aug 2018 at 9:47pm
I don't under stand. (Water drained from carburetor into the engine lock).   MACK


Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 31 Aug 2018 at 9:50pm
I always use a  50/50 mix of acetone/transmission fluid. The acetone really eats the rust, but it also evaporates quickly, s I put the plugs back in finger tight.
 As said above, unless you have a different problem, it should free up easily.


Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 31 Aug 2018 at 10:29pm
may just be a stuck valve and if it does turn over by rocking it you will have bent a push rod so at least pull the valve cover and push all the valves there isnt that much spring preassure  all the intakes that were closed are probley stuck , did air cleaner get filled with water?


Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2018 at 9:18am
Originally posted by MACK MACK wrote:

I don't under stand. (Water drained from carburetor into the engine lock).   MACK


x2!


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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080


Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2018 at 9:19am
Originally posted by Gerald J. Gerald J. wrote:

Forcing a stuck engine to turn by pulling it or shoving a rear tire can cause serious damage by bending the connecting rods that are trying to push a piston up. The bent rod adds friction to the piston and the connecting rod bearing and is weakened and with the engine running can break and the remains of the piston rod often poke a hole in the side of the block or the oil pan.

Its much better to take the head off and add rust solvents and to drop the crank shaft and pull down on the connecting rods or pull the piston stuck to the sleeve and press the piston down with hydraulic press or hammer and block of wood.

Gerald J.


I agree with this 100%.  Never pull a tractor in an attempt to free up a stuck engine.


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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080


Posted By: lowell
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2018 at 9:43am
Kind of hard to drain water from the carb into the engine when it is a up draft carb


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2018 at 6:37pm
Water gets in the engine from around the muffler. It can run down the outside of the muffler and seep right into the manifold. It can't leak into the engine from the carb.

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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2018 at 6:39pm
I suppose it could come in through the breather, too, if the cap is off and it sits long enough.


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2018 at 6:50pm
Originally posted by WF owner WF owner wrote:


I suppose it could come in through the breather, too, if the cap is off and it sits long enough.

It can get in the air cleaner if the cap is off, but it CAN'T get into the engine from there without cranking the engine over and sucking it in..

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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2018 at 6:59pm
Originally posted by CTuckerNWIL CTuckerNWIL wrote:

Originally posted by WF owner WF owner wrote:


I suppose it could come in through the breather, too, if the cap is off and it sits long enough.

It can get in the air cleaner if the cap is off, but it CAN'T get into the engine from there without cranking the engine over and sucking it in..
If it fills up the air cleaner, the manifold and carb would be full too. I don't see why it couldn't run in to the engine the same way it does through the exhaust, through an open valve.


Posted By: AllisChalmers37
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2018 at 11:19pm
Originally posted by DSeries4 DSeries4 wrote:

Originally posted by Gerald J. Gerald J. wrote:

Forcing a stuck engine to turn by pulling it or shoving a rear tire can cause serious damage by bending the connecting rods that are trying to push a piston up. The bent rod adds friction to the piston and the connecting rod bearing and is weakened and with the engine running can break and the remains of the piston rod often poke a hole in the side of the block or the oil pan.

Its much better to take the head off and add rust solvents and to drop the crank shaft and pull down on the connecting rods or pull the piston stuck to the sleeve and press the piston down with hydraulic press or hammer and block of wood.

Gerald J.


I agree with this 100%.  Never pull a tractor in an attempt to free up a stuck engine.


Trust me from seeing it done with a DD15. For a gasoline engine pull the plugs and use a pump to get the water off the top of the Pistons. Same with a diesel just pull injectors instead of plugs. The one I seen did start when it was pulled but it has a nice clunking noise due to some bent rods.

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1937 WC, 1950 CA, 1959 D14, 1967 190XT, 2006 Ram 3500



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