Towing a 7060
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=147807
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Topic: Towing a 7060
Posted By: ABDave
Subject: Towing a 7060
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2018 at 7:45pm
Well as you may remember from my first post, I have acquired a 7060 with a stuck engine. It's located 1 1/2 miles from my place and I would like to tow it home. There is a 'TOW' location on the Hi-Lo shift, but the tractor has been sitting for at least 12 years and I'm not ready to tow it in case some damage might be done. The oil level in the transmission is on the Full mark.
Question; Is OK to tow it?
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Replies:
Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2018 at 9:28pm
several years ago, I was in town with my 7010, delivered a load of grain to the elevator, when pulling on the scale after unloading the clutch cable snapped. there I sat! called the old lady....oooops...I mean the loving wife, she came in with the car. pulled it home with a Plymouth fury, but I was in it to steer and brake, the engine was running, and I had everything in neutral. (PD tranny) it didn't hurt anything....but then it was running pumping oil. i'd put it in nuertral and pull it, might stir up the oil and splash it around, that would be a good thing I would think! maybe Doc or Mack will chime in on this
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Posted By: victoryallis
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2018 at 9:40pm
Manual should say but like shameless said it’s doable. When I shelled out the dropbox on the 7580 the 7060 towed it home a couple miles.
------------- 8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760
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Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2018 at 9:41pm
I would not tow it that far, especially after setting that long. Hi and lo gears could gould to pinion shaft from lack of lub. MACK
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Posted By: ABDave
Date Posted: 21 Feb 2018 at 10:41pm
Thanks MACK. I'm not familiar with the drive line so I thought it best to ask.
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Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2018 at 2:13am
Good to hear you're going to follow Mack's advice. Transmissions are so complex anymore to ever tow them. Let us know how the tractor turns out. Hope it does good.
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Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2018 at 8:40am
Maybe a dumb question, but how in the heck would you steer it?
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Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2018 at 9:16am
so what about just filling the tranny to the very top probley would not hurt every thing to soak up if it has been sitting that long leave the filler cap off or loose so it can vent good . i understand oil aint cheap but probley dosnt take to much more to way over fill it. heck a mile and a half aint far walk a long side it a herd it if you had to
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Posted By: Mike Kroupa
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2018 at 9:17am
Addressing the steering question. There are check valves built into the circuit to contain the hyd. oil. It still takes considerable effort for the operator to steer, but it can be done. Non-operational for that long though, I would anticipate that most of the oil has bled off. Good Luck, Mike
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Posted By: Joe(TX)
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2018 at 10:45am
Another problem would be that you would have no brakes. They wourk off the hydraulic system.
------------- 1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A
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Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2018 at 10:47am
Huh. Must be my 7045 bleeds down quick. It sat for a couple weeks, and the batteries were shot. We towed it maybe a 100 feet to get it out of the way in a hurry. It was very difficult to move the steering wheel, but I could and it had no effect. Only way I could keep it steered was jabbing the brakes.
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Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2018 at 10:58am
Just another 'what if', but what if you overfilled it like Hud said and used another tractor and you pulled it about the same speed as the average person walks? That would take a while, but just thinking out loud.
------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Posted By: kurtleimkuehler
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2018 at 11:22am
Your in Alberta, just wait for an ice storm, put chains on your other tractor and slide it home.
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Posted By: Shawn PA
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2018 at 11:22am
The 7000 series have brakes when it's not running. I don't Kno if it sat that long? I'd be afraid of there being water in the oil and it getting mixed in the tranny or hydraulics. Just my two cents worth. Shawn
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Posted By: kurtleimkuehler
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2018 at 11:30am
Well were going to have to start somewhere its been sitting for twelve years in the brush. Hire a rollback truck if your that scared or will it damage it to move it 10 ft.
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Posted By: dawntreader74
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2018 at 5:53pm
pick the back end up with a good tow truck; bring it home' an back it in the shed. someone has to have a wrecker somewhere by you. would work just fine. thin your not moving the back wheels at all..
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Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 22 Feb 2018 at 9:49pm
If it was here in north Mo. Yesterday, you could have slid it home on ice.lol MACK
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Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2018 at 6:10am
I like the tow truck idea as it comes with two side benifits, you would be on his insurance while he is hooked up and second when you get home he could back it into shop before unhooking.
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Posted By: skateboarder68
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2018 at 7:46am
I would just tow it home slow like 3 to 5 mph. If something bad happens I would consider it as money saved from not digging into it any deeper. Could always part it out. Some tow companies would charge a good chunk of what it's worth. Just my .02
------------- Orange & Silver still earnin their keep on the farm: R62, Series IV D17 nf, 185, 6080, 6080 fwa, 220, 1968 D21, 7045, DT240.
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Posted By: ABDave
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2018 at 11:06pm
I often help a local towing company that has a tandem rollback. I will be using that and probably have it in the shop early next week. I'll try to keep the speed down when I winch it unto the deck too.
As for steering I found the steering wheel just spins without any resistance so I assume it has sat long enough for the system to have drained back.
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Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2018 at 11:06am
Having had to tear a rear end apart to fix a seized high range gear on the pinion shaft, I can add that MACK as usual is dead on. The gears are pressure lubricated on that shaft, and while you can certainly pull them around the yard, I would NOT pull them down the road.
------------- Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7
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Posted By: dawntreader74
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2018 at 6:02pm
the only right way to move that is with the wrecker' by picking it up by the back end. air up the front tires some' an your good to go..
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Posted By: old farmer
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2018 at 7:00pm
You will need to find a way to lock the front tires so they don’t wander from side to side.
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Posted By: dawntreader74
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2018 at 7:11pm
wrecker man knows to put a chain an binder on the front axle to hook the steer arms together' them guys do it every day.
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Posted By: ABDave
Date Posted: 27 Feb 2018 at 11:51pm
Well here's the latest. I hauled it home, removed the exhaust manifold and found rust powder in the ports of numbers 3 and 4. Took the head off and found the ATF i had put in each cylinder a week ago was gone from all cylinders except number 4. Number 4 was still full of ATF but the water must have evaporated because there wasn't any ice on top of the piston. Number 3 showed signs of water having been in it, but the ATF had drained out indicating it may not be stuck as bad as 4.
I tried to move the crank by way of the front pulley but it doesn't even jiggle either direction. With number 4 still being full of oil I suspect it is stuck the tightest. So, I'm hoping to disconnect the rod on number 4 and somehow push the piston and sleeve out together. Then see if number 3 will break loose. 'till later ABDave
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Posted By: kurtleimkuehler
Date Posted: 07 Mar 2018 at 3:47pm
so whats the signs of water they parked it cause a cracked head?
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Posted By: ABDave
Date Posted: 07 Mar 2018 at 6:25pm
The tractor was parked due to my Uncle's bad health. It's last job was pulling a baler.
I'm waiting for the weather to improve so I can work on it again. That may happen within the next few days.
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Posted By: ABDave
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2018 at 11:00am
Well the weather gave me a short break (the shop is unheated) so I had the opportunity to find the problem, or problems, one might say.
Number three and four cylinders need the sleeves replaced and one piston. The other cylinders still show hone marks from an overhaul done approximately 1000 hrs before the tractor was parked. I will touch up the valves and seats, although after cleaning them they look like one would expect them to look at such low hours. Quite surprising considering water had ruined the sleeves. I damaged one piston while removing it from the sleeve, hence the need to replace only one piston. Bearing shells show almost no sign of wear.
The only real shocker when it came to obtaining replacement parts was the price of new head bolts. New sleeves were $130.00 each and a used piston was $45.00, rings and gaskets another $350.00, which is reasonable, but the head bolts were $1100.00.
Nature has thrown us a real curve here this spring whereby April has been unseasonably cold. As such it may be a while before I can get to reassembly.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2018 at 3:34pm
Seldom have I ever replaced head bolts. Only if they are badly pitted and never a whole set. To each his own.
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2018 at 9:13pm
DrAllis wrote:
Seldom have I ever replaced head bolts. Only if they are badly pitted and never a whole set. To each his own. |
I was scratching my head too.
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Posted By: ABDave
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2018 at 11:36am
Thanks for the comeback guys.
I re-read my post and realized I didn't include that I won't be replacing the head bolts. The worst that would happen would likely be a blown head gasket, but it will probably take the failure of more that one bolt to cause it. However, I will be replacing the rod bolts on the two rods that are involved because failure of those can result in a sudden crankcase ventilation system that I don't need.
I'll keep ya'll posted.
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Posted By: dawntreader74
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2018 at 12:29pm
Posted By: exSW
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2018 at 1:49pm
AC head bolts that high quality? IH and Cummins a pretty common upgrade is CAT headbolts.
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Posted By: Jwmac7060
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2018 at 2:17pm
When the drop box shot crap on our 7580 our 7060 pulled it in. 7060 also towed in the 8070 when the crank grenades through the block. Needless to say the 7060 is still here the other two are gone. 7580 and 8070 worst tractors AC ever made in my opinion
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Posted By: ABDave
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2018 at 10:07pm
downtreader74: I'm fortunate to have friend with a towing business that I drive for when he's in a pinch. He let me use the tandem roll deck.
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Posted By: dawntreader74
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2018 at 10:41pm
yes;; that must of worked out good;
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