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7020 PTO noise and fluid loss.

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=147465
Printed Date: 24 Aug 2025 at 5:33pm
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Topic: 7020 PTO noise and fluid loss.
Posted By: Blustery Knoll Farm
Subject: 7020 PTO noise and fluid loss.
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2018 at 12:27pm
7020 PTO rattle and oil loss. There's a fairly loud rattle from the rear end. It is mostly heard at low engine speed. It is there whether the tractor is moving, or stopped. It also doesn't matter whether the clutch is in or out. Throttling up, or putting a load on the PTO quiets it down.

I need to add about a gallon of oil to the PTO fill every 40 hours to keep it in the sight gauges. It's not leaking on to the ground. Today I noticed that the transmission oil is over full. It wasn't that far up the dipstick last time I checked.



Replies:
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2018 at 5:39pm
They all rattle at low rpm....normal. Sounds like the seal between rr and trans needs replaced...lots a work but cheap!


Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2018 at 5:46pm
gear noise is kind of normal, the oil transfer is either the pump drive shaft seal or the seal between the geroter pump (trans supply pump) and gear pump. I would pull the pumps and replace them all.

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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..


Posted By: Patrick4316
Date Posted: 30 Mar 2018 at 12:37pm
Hey SteveM,
I do have the same issue on my AC 7020 PD.
The seal between the rr and transmission is it on the PTO shaft ?


Posted By: fourthgeneration
Date Posted: 03 Apr 2018 at 10:10pm
Ours was doing that so I changed the hydraulic pump shaft seal between the piston pump and gear pump and it fixed. If this doesn’t fix the oil migration then it’s a big job to fix.


Posted By: Patrick4316
Date Posted: 11 May 2018 at 8:41pm
Thank you fourthgeneration
I will start from the easy change and see it will be fixed.
I noticed migration from rr oil to overflow transmission. Now I’m loosing frequently control of my steering while turning.

If someone knows if the oil migration may result to loss power on the steering wheel?


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 11 May 2018 at 10:47pm
For the power steering to be affected by low hydraulic oil levels on the SIGHT GLASSES, it has to be 10 or 12 gallons low on oil  !!!!!    So, I guess I'd start by letting the tractor sit on an absolutely level spot overnight and check the oil in both compartments when cold.  The dipstick in the cab is 7 1/2 gallons of oil and the rear end is about 18 gallons. Oil "transfer" between compartments can only be verified by proper and accurate oil level checking, not by "I think my power steering is acting up". I cannot stress enough the idea that the tractor has to be sitting on a LEVEL spot side-to-side and front-to-back.


Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 12 May 2018 at 2:04am
hey Dr...now don't yell at me! but that carrier bearing between the rear end and the tranny, won't oil flow thru that over night to level out the 2 levels? just asking! I don't know how long it takes on the problem that Knoll farm has. I've always wondered about this.


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 12 May 2018 at 6:13am
I've worked on several hundred of those 7000 and 8000 series tractors with that pinion seal. I have never had a leaker. Not one.  That is not to say there hasn't been some, but it is not very common. When rating the failures in percentages, the transmission getting low and the rear end getting high, I'd say 90% of the time ( in my area) it is the dual pump seal, which may mean a different dual pump due to a spun bushing. It is clear to me that month after month on this website, there are people that don't even understand which dipstick or which sight glass holds what oil. And then they are trying to diagnose a problem, where there may not even be a problem. They really can't even tell you if the oil is transferring front to rear or front to on the ground underneath the tractor. They just think they are losing oil.  If there is really a transfer problem it has to be systematically diagnosed. That means you start with the tractor on a level surface and you use this same parking spot every time until you figure it out.  If the problem is a fast transfer, fine. Go operate for 2 or 3 hrs and park it on your test spot. Let it sit for at least 15 minutes and determine what the oil levels are. This also means 3 point hitch DOWN every time for consistency.  This checking the oil levels once a month and then claiming there's a problem isn't any way to diagnose a potential oil transfer issue. It needs to be daily and write down the hrs of use. You all realize if you have a new farm tractor that is in warranty and you claim the engine uses oil what you have to do to get it repaired????? You will be expected to provide dates, fuel fill gallons and engine oil added for at least 200 hrs. That means every time the tractor is refueled, the engine oil added (if any) and gallons of fuel burned have to be logged on a data sheet. So, you worked the tractor for a day and burned 100 gallons of fuel and added one QUART of eng oil.  AGCO, Cat, Deere, Cummins (with that info) isn't going to do anything. Now, you provide 30 days in a row of that exact same data, then maybe they'll do something. That all being said, when you think you have an oil transfer problem, you better have good "data" or no one will be able to help you.


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 12 May 2018 at 6:36am
Another thing. When checking transmission oil levels with the dipstick, look on BOTH sides of the dipstick and check the level more than once to get a accurate reading. This is always best when the oil is COLD, but I realize sometimes it can't be cold. Check it more than once.


Posted By: wekracer
Date Posted: 12 May 2018 at 6:41am
Am I correct that when seal in the pump starts leaking that oil transfers from the reared to the transmission. I have been watching my 8050. I know the cylinder on my disk leaks a little and the couplers seap and I have to add a gallon of hydraulic oil about every 20hours of run time but the transmission is over full. It has been for several years but i think it’s getting higher. It gets parked in the same spot in the barn so I need to start writing it down how high over the marks it is as you suggest. I thought about pulling the pumps this winter and just resealing them. I know their original.


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 12 May 2018 at 7:01am
The seal inside the dual pump that has a high % rate of failure, always transfers down in the transmission and up in the rear end. The hydraulic pumps drive shaft seal will leak from the rear end into the transmission area. This seal is easily changed while the pumps are pulled out already.  It is also easy to check by draining the trans oil and watching that seal when it sits.  I had one 7080 back in 1979 that had a weird oil transfer problem. It would go from the rear end into the transmission, but only when the Customer roaded the tractor 15 miles. I kind of had a plan with that very good diagnostic information from the Customer.  The rear end had been taken apart previously a couple years earlier by a another AC dealership. They had installed the top live PTO shaft seal in backwards. Pretty easy day. Remove the hydraulic valves and lift arm housing, pull the PTO shaft and install a new seal the correct way (spring towards the rear) and reassemble.


Posted By: wekracer
Date Posted: 12 May 2018 at 11:18pm
Thanks doc. I’ll quit worrying about it. Part of the problem is it’s so darned hard to tell just where the level is on those dip sticks.


Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 12 May 2018 at 11:32pm
Wek...that's because you look to fast!


Posted By: Patrick4316
Date Posted: 12 May 2018 at 11:37pm
Thanks,
All the oil transfer issues diagnostics from the forum are pointing to my hydraulic pump drive shaft.
1 from the diff. Housing and 2 in the pump shaft (gerotor and gear).

Thanks
Great inputs



Posted By: wekracer
Date Posted: 13 May 2018 at 7:11am
Originally posted by shameless dude shameless dude wrote:

Wek...that's because you look to fast!


A guy can’t spend all day checking his dipstick Shameless


Posted By: Patrick4316
Date Posted: 25 May 2018 at 7:47pm
I pulled off the pump, opened the gear pump


Posted By: Patrick4316
Date Posted: 25 May 2018 at 7:54pm
B


Posted By: Derfhell
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2020 at 12:26pm
Is anyone still out there?


Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2020 at 5:20pm
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

Another thing. When checking transmission oil levels with the dipstick, look on BOTH sides of the dipstick and check the level more than once to get a accurate reading. This is always best when the oil is COLD, but I realize sometimes it can't be cold. Check it more than once.
Absolutely! I pull and wipe all dipsticks 2 or 3 times to get one accurate reading. Just yesterday I pulled a dipstick on the 200 and it was different from one side to the other. Did it twice more to be sure I had a good reading. I don't think people realize the stick only has to touch something oily on the way out or rub it's oil off to get a bad reading.

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I am a Russian Bot


Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2020 at 5:24pm
Originally posted by wekracer wekracer wrote:

Thanks doc. I’ll quit worrying about it. Part of the problem is it’s so darned hard to tell just where the level is on those dip sticks.
Sometimes I think the dipstick should be black (shameless shut up Wink) so you can see the oil better. Maybe flat black.

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-- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... -
Wink
I am a Russian Bot


Posted By: lowell66dart
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2020 at 5:38pm
As the Doc suggested if you pull the pump get a good light and you can see the seal leaking. Not a bad job.

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AC 6080 (8030,7060,200,175,D-17HC, 6040,160,6140 all gone) Farmall 1066 & 656 Hi-Clear (for sale), White 2-62 High Clearance, JD 4255 Hi Clear.


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 27 Apr 2020 at 9:42pm
I replace the pump drive shaft seal when ever the pumps are out. Made a driver to drive the new seal in straight.      MACK



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