Always close radiator shutter completely when engine is started and keep it closed until engine reaches normal operating temperature; then open shutter amount necessary to hold this temperature. If burning low octane fuels, operate engine on gasoline until the temperature reaches 190° F. To 200° F., before switching to low octane fuel. This is readily done by shutting valve under small tank and opening valve under large tank. Never open valve under large tank before shutting valve under small tank as this will mix the two fuels. The minimum operating temperatures are 170° F. for gasoline and 190° F. for low octane fuel.  Strict adherence to these recommendations will guard against excessive dilution of lubricating oil, condensation and corrosion.

If I'm careful with how I accelerate, I can generally keep it around 180, though. I never worry about it running cold, for sure. 

Before I put shutters on my B, it would always run cold. I need to test the gauge though. The PO put it on, and without the shutters, it never got into the green. Ever. Even when running my All-Crop 60A in milo. Now that I've got the shutters, if I'm careful, I can regulate it so the temp hangs around the middle of the green zone. 

That's one place where Deere had a good idea...control the shutters from the operator's seat...

What about my 38? My housing is a tower looking thing with a squarish opening that matches the head outlet. The base is a match for the mounting point and doesn’t widen out. In the video I shot yesterday of my first run after the mag was installed, at the 20 second mark, one can see mine. It looks nothing like this. The water temp gauge hole isn’t drilled.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6h_AoC7qChE" rel="nofollow - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6h_AoC7qChE

A thermostat from an N might work, but it would be awfully tight in that short distance of hose on the B. The factory thermostats on the Ns were pretty long and tubular, but the new ones are quite a bit shorter. I'm doubtful it would work, but it would help to call Steiner or somewhere and get a measurement first. 

I suppose that is what I’ll have to do too, but my shutters are long gone. I’m thinking a canvas shroud like trucks use up north in winter might work. Trouble is my B doesn’t even have a place for a temperature gauge. Perhaps putting a gauge where the little block drain is would work. Not sure about the thread pattern there, or how I would drain the block if I fill that hole. There is not a lot of room behind the carb! Maybe I should drill out that odd not-a-thermostat housing and tap it for a gauge. I sure don’t want to bake the engine after all the work I have put into bringing it back to life.

sure hope not like mine - he must have used one of those old hook-type canopeners to cut the hole.

 

(deleted pix)

A hole saw would have done that job so easily.

Perhaps the tractor was designed for shutters only?

 

It looks like your tractor never had a thermostat. Get a thermostat that goes in the radiator hose like the one above. This one is for a Ford 8N. It is for a 1 1/2" radiator hose. Measure your Rad hose to be sure it will fit. Make sure it is a 180 not a 160 Degree unit.

here's a picture of my 1941 housing trying to give ranse an indication of how thick the original "bottom plate" was.

mine looks to be just a hair under 1/8" and is presumed to be factory.

Thanks Phil. That eases my mind.

Since I don’t have the shutters anymore, or anywhere to mount a temperature gauge, I am sort of up against it here. Even if I had the shutters there would be no way to know how hot/cool the engine is. My radiator is internally vented so my B was never meant to be pressurized. Those caps with a built in gauge have short little probes, and if the coolant evaporated it would quit working right.

I am tempted to drill out my tower/manifold thing and tap it for a sending unit and mount a gauge on the tool box where the crank handle stores. I bought a straight shank crank to replace my old one as it is absolutely wore out and it won’t fit on the mount point. That would be a perfect place for one.

This all sounds like a spring project, so time isn’t a problem.

listed in ford 8n parts, but says universal.  numeric gauge to 250, metal wrapped capillary line, 2" gauge.

I bought 2.

they also have a hose adapter which I passed on - I'm gonna drill and tap a designated boss on the head (which surprised me!) on two 8N's.

worrier type here - can't imagine running a water cooled engine without a visual check on the temp here in too-often-hot SoCal.

so likely it will work again.

I just wanted to let you see what "normal" looked like so you could come to your own conclusions.

I doubt even the correct police with magnifying glasses would notice unless you pointed it out.

meanwhile it's pretty and it runs.

enjoy your B!

Hey Phil,

I assume you are addressing me. If not disregard the following, or not. :-)

I am not too worried about this cooling issue right now. It has finally turned into winter here in the Ozarks, and most of the work on the B is now on hold until warm weather comes back. I just don’t do cold anymore without absolute need, or if I am hunting, which is.

Aside from refilling the cooling system, and starting it a few times between now and spring, not much work is planned, with cooling system draining after each running session. Yanking the lower radiator hose off, and pulling the plug on the side of the block gets it dry, as the tractor rests slightly favoring that way and is no biggie. I still need to set the valve clearance with the engine warmed up, so I HAVE to get that done. Media blasting, and immediate repriming, appointment for the drive train in mid January is the next big step. A new manifold is going to be bought and ceramic coated at a commercial shop. I still have time to think about the color and finish for the drive train, but I am still leaning toward a flat black, or maybe a satinish less-than-glossy black. All the sheet metal, steering system and wheels will be in the shade of orange I have choosen. New wheels and tires..

I am going to start looking at the transmission and final drives for the same thing the engine experienced (condensation of epic scale). I may need to flush those systems and drive the axels, and slip the brakes to knock off crud, and flush it all again. I have the tractor on jack stands/huge blocks of wood, and should be safe to run in gear(s).

How much would you need to get for the shutters? Maybe you need a part from my donor B and we could make a trade? It has workable fenders with the left being really nice. Block is shot freeze busted bad. Tranny seems to work. No pto. All castings except block sound. I’m almost tempted to fix it too.

I think if there is a hole on the magneto side of the radiator shroud near the top of the cover your tractor was equipped with them, or that sheet metal part was built for a tractor that did.