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7010 Powershift C2 clutch plate question

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Category: Allis Chalmers
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=138334
Printed Date: 27 Dec 2025 at 1:54pm
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Topic: 7010 Powershift C2 clutch plate question
Posted By: Sonlight
Subject: 7010 Powershift C2 clutch plate question
Date Posted: 12 May 2017 at 10:16am
7010 started leaking oil bad from PS input shaft so we split it and found the  first cup bearing had gone and locking ring broke so tapered bearing also was loose. Next I noticed there was a problem in one of the  clutches.  2 friction discs broken and teeth chewed up.  Problem is I thought it was C1 that was bad so I ordered 4 discs for C1 only to find out it was C2 and they are not the same! C2 has rounder teeth apparently .  I have the clutch stacked together but not installed. Will the square teeth discs work? I assume C2 is different for a reason but thought Id ask on here in case i could save time and $   Theyre not cheap!        Thanks 



Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 12 May 2017 at 10:20am
THEY ARE DIFFERENT !!!!


Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 12 May 2017 at 6:58pm
Wish I could see a picture of this ,


Posted By: joe
Date Posted: 12 May 2017 at 8:33pm
Tribco has the correct discs for the C2 clutch. Should be a whole bunch cheaper than AGCo, as well as being kevlar reinforced.


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 13 May 2017 at 7:59am
If front nut come loose, you are going to have housing bored and sleeved. Look for ware in housing bore .         MACK


Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 14 May 2017 at 10:03am
Additionally the opposite end of the clutch pack probably dropped, and was riding on the ring gear of one of the planetaries, and may well have caused some significant damage.  While you are in there look that area over real well also.

The other thing I would do is make sure you don't skimp and choose not to take the entire trans apart, and clean it up.  I personally would also reseal all of the clutches at a minimum.

The reason being, all of the material that has been floating around the trans, even as good as the filtering is, will likely have found it's way into the flyball orifices, and contamination there can cause shifting problems, at a minimum, and clutch failure at the worst.  You are not talking about a lot of money, just time well spent in my opinion.  Last I bought one a seal kit for the trans wasn't but 2-300 bucks I think, and it has everything you need to pull and replace the trans anyway.


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Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 14 May 2017 at 9:54pm
Orange Blood is right. There is no short cut when working on a PS. Take every thing apart, clean, and reassemble with all new seals and piston ring seals.      MACK


Posted By: Sonlight
Date Posted: 15 May 2017 at 12:57pm
Thanks for the replies everyone.  Luckily the balls hadnt come out of the bearing ....just no longer positioned right and gathered to one side therefore causing the vibration, so I dont see any other damage.   So change all the o-rings and piston seals....what about the steel oil sealing rings on the hubs?  And what should I look for while inspecting the flyballs?  


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 15 May 2017 at 10:24pm
Yes, replace the steel seal rings.
Take the fly ball and springs out to make sure they are not stuck or full of crap.    MACK


Posted By: Sonlight
Date Posted: 16 May 2017 at 2:17pm


Joe , Tribco has plates matching C2 part # but  in the pic he emailed me, the teeth  were definitely square like the rest of the clutches..???  maybe wasnt right pic?  i tried uploading it here, but didnt work.  



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