180 transmission parts
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=137929
Printed Date: 14 Aug 2025 at 11:36pm
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Topic: 180 transmission parts
Posted By: Orange4ever
Subject: 180 transmission parts
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2017 at 9:17am
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Pulling in the 180 and doing work on the transmission, and need to put in a new fourth gear, it's still there but will not stay in gear. Who is a good place to get new parts or should we try to find a good used parts. What's the quality of the gears for sale on the Internet? ------------- If you want a man to be a successful farmer, give him a Allis Chalmers tractor. If you want him to be a successful mechanic, give him a John Deere |
Replies:
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2017 at 9:25am
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Good luck finding good used parts. Too many tractors had this condition and were subsequently scrapped. I got aftermarket gears in my 190XT but have not worked it really hard yet. I would get parts from an AGCO dealer - NOT off e-bay! It's not just the gears. Look at the shift collars and shaft bearings. When my XT was being taken apart, one could move the input shaft from side to side and up and down. Either way, it's not a cheap fix but it's cheaper than buying a new tractor.
------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080 |
Posted By: Dave (NE)
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2017 at 10:46am
| Tom, I had the same issue with 4th gear and also 3rd in the 180 I acquired five years ago. I asked the question about after market parts on this forum and using A&I parts, I believe. Got a positive response so went ahead and used them. Saved quite a bit over Agco parts. I don't use my 180 hard, so can't say these would hold up under heavy use, but for my needs it was worth the cost savings. Dave |
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2017 at 10:51am
| A&I is or was a good source, the Agco/Case/New Holland dealer near to us used to sell the Heritage Line of repair parts but I do not know if they still do or if any do. I got replacement shift forks for mine several years back, also had to replace a spindle due to the steering link had gotten loose but it does not fit as well as original. |
Posted By: DennisA (IL)
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2017 at 11:03am
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The gears and couplers can be fixed if you can find someone that can weld the lugs back up to the correct size and shape.
I had that done on the D-17 years ago, works great
and didn't cost me a whole lot. ------------- Thanks & God Bless Dennis |
Posted By: Dave (NE)
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2017 at 11:17am
| Oh, another thought. My cousin went through his local AGCO dealer for some parts recently. They had a third party they could get Allis parts through still, that was a lot less expensive than AGCO. Perhaps your local AGCO dealer has a similar arrangement. |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2017 at 11:31am
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Is there really that much or any difference between the AGCO gears and A&I gears? Can't be many places that actually manufacture these gears,maybe only one. |
Posted By: Rick
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2017 at 12:37pm
| Best bet is to get the 4th gear from Agco, since A&I doesn't sell that gear or first. Everything else pertaining to the gears and collars they have. Rick |
Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2017 at 12:51pm
| Agco prices aren't bad, they have the true specs and will be right, seems to brought their prices down some |
Posted By: Rick
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2017 at 12:55pm
| Agco isn't all that bad on the prices of the gears, really, but A&I, on the gears now, are just as good and right on with specs as AGCO...I've sold many of their gears without problems. Rick |
Posted By: DennisA (IL)
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2017 at 12:58pm
I'll second that. I've never had to replace a gear yet but heard that some have and replaced with non-oem gears which made a lot of noise. ------------- Thanks & God Bless Dennis |
DougG wrote:Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2017 at 1:30pm
| I have fixed many such tractors by installing the newer "deep-shift" 3rd/4th gear shift rail and fork. These parts are listed under the latest model 185 tractor. |
Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2017 at 7:33pm
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There are many reasons for jumping out of gear. As the good Dr. states the #1 issue is the oem gear shift collars simply were not set correctly to shift in all the way, seated, into gear. Thus only a portion of the shifting lugs were being used - and when ground = forced into gear it wore what was being used to a degree angle that the shifting collar was forced away into neutral either in a pull or when the throttle was backed off or there was a reverse load on the gears. 4th was worse because a heavy load was started in 3d then shifted into road gear'. The second reason was the gears had too much clearance either fore/aft or radially between the pinion shaft and the collar or the collar and the gears - especially 3d / second gear. When many pinions are inspected the pinion shaft will be a few thousandths worn in the area where the collars ride. This play allows the pinion gears to be forced away from the counter shaft with the results being the shift collar is always running an interference radius to the gear lugs and again resulting in wear. We have also seen wear in the bearing on the counter shaft allowing the helical gears to be thrust into the main pinion gears. The pinion bearing itself can wear and get loose and allow the front tip that rides in the needle bearing in the input -4th- to move up and down thus again accelerating wear on the coupling splines that result in engagement force out . The 3d gear thrust washer can fracture or wear and cause excessing slack = much slack if the washer drops out to the bottom - there was a service bulletin concerning over hardened thrust washers in the late 70's. Reassembling the transmission noting all these areas and then making sure the collars sift completely into gear will probably result in the last rebuild necessary. Any time we check out a 170-200 tranny we always shift into all the gears and when the shift lever detents PULL HARDER on the shift lever and fell if the detent pops and allows the lever to move further into gear. IF it does -fix the issue - it will pay big dividends.
As a PS also weld up all shift forks that are worn and or replace them. Replace the seal in the PD seal housing as well with the seal correctly orientated - many service pictures are wrong - the open end or spring end goes toward the front. We also enlarge the drain hole a bit size and make sure the seal outer ring
does not block it - this is where oil transfer occurs. ------------- When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money.. |
Posted By: chuck (WI)
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2017 at 11:05pm
| Dr will the deep shift fork and rail work on all the 190s also or just the 180 |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 01 May 2017 at 7:13am
| 180-185-190-190XT-200. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 01 May 2017 at 7:22am
| 70261443 is the shift rail........70261385 is a new fork if needed. Deeper engagement into 4th gear location may cause shift collar to rub the countershaft gear. This has NEVER been an issue for me and don't worry about it. You're attempting to keep the transmission in gear without a complete tear down and if that collar rubs the bottom gear and doesn't jump out of gear anymore, mission accomplished !!! |