All Crop 66 draper binding
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=137287
Printed Date: 08 Nov 2025 at 4:41pm
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Topic: All Crop 66 draper binding
Posted By: krusty
Subject: All Crop 66 draper binding
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2017 at 7:20pm
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Hi gang, I am still searching for a local all crop 40 for fun but in the meantime I stumbled across a 66 that was stored in a barn locally for super cheap. It will need bushings in 1 wheel. Have yet to take it apart but hope it is not scored to heck. It was very well lubed over the years with nothing seized and all is free without squeaks. The top draper would make it through a couple years and the bottom one was redone at some point. The top draper works fine without issue, but the bottom one will go .5 to 1.5 revolutions and then bind. I can back it up by turning the flywheel backwards without issue but then bind again at some other point. It is not binding at the head as I can move my fingers everywhere down there. Does not seem to be binding at the top. The only thing odd about is it that there is a misalignment of about 1" and maybe that is causing grief when slat goes around the roller. Wisdom?
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Replies:
Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2017 at 7:59pm
| That's it. If those slats are not perfectly straight all the way across, you will have binding. |
Posted By: Ryan Renko
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2017 at 8:06pm
| I would first look at the draper itself at the connecting slat and make sure the draper is straight which means the amount of canvas under the slat measures equal at both right to left sides. Also check the two idler tension levers down in front by the sickle and make sure they are equal. Ryan |
Posted By: krusty
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2017 at 8:17pm
| Thx for the tidbits. I will take the draper out and make sure the slats are lined up correctly and then put it back in. Cant really see it being anything else. The tensioners look to be in fine working order. |
Posted By: Ryan Renko
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2017 at 8:32pm
| You really dont have to take the draper out. Just measure the canvas tabs that go under the connecting slat and make them all the same. Ryan |
Posted By: krusty
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2017 at 8:43pm
| Will try that as a first step. Good to know as it would make it much simpler. |
Posted By: Ryan Renko
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2017 at 8:45pm
| Post some pictures of your combine if you can. We all like to see them put back into service and saved from the scrappers!!! Ryan |
Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2017 at 9:17pm
x2!
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Ryan Renko wrote:Posted By: krusty
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2017 at 6:38pm
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Will get pics in the next couple of days. Adjusted the draper and it is much better but still not perfect. Hope to get an acre of wheat planted for the kids this spring. One axle shaft and hub was neglected so if anyone has a spare in decent shape pls let me know what you want for it via PM. Will post a request in the classifieds as well.
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Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2017 at 8:42pm
| A lot of folks (my great-grandpa included) chopped off the old hubs and had car hubs with bearings welded on. Grandpa always said those hubs with the bushings weren't worth 2 cents. Lol |
Posted By: krusty
Date Posted: 16 Apr 2017 at 7:43am
| You know thats exactly what I thought as well. You can get implement stubs that would fit right in but for the drive side, some type of adapter would need to be made. That is the side that is cooked! If I cannot find a replacement for a reasonable price, I will go the route of new stubs with real bearings! I expect this to get a lot of use, just hobby sized efforts. |