WD45 Lube Questions - See 3/5 Post
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=135652
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Topic: WD45 Lube Questions - See 3/5 Post
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Subject: WD45 Lube Questions - See 3/5 Post
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2017 at 9:52am
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I'm about to change the fluids in my WD45 for the first time and have some questions I'm sure you guys can answer! 1. Owners manual description of changing the fluid for the HYDRAULIC PUMP: "To completely drain pump the pump control housing must also be drained." What does this mean and how do I drain the pump control housing? 2. Description of changing the fluid for the
TRANSMISSION, DIFFERENTIAL AND TRANSMISSION CLUTCH states "drain plugs are
located on bottom of transmission, bottom of differential and bottom of clutch
housing". Is there a 4th plug for PTO? 3. I'm pretty sure that I've seen two different recommendations for the final drive fluid: hytrans and SAE 80-90. Which is better? Thanks! Dave
------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Replies:
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2017 at 10:09am
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1. The control housing is the spot on the rear of the pump that the control linkages hook to. There is a small square headed plug on the bottom that you can remove to drain the housing. It only holds a couple ounces. Then there is the actual hydraulic reservoir. 2. From memory, there are 3 plugs. One under the read end, one under the PTO, and one just behind the PTO directly above the PTO shaft. All three plugs share fluid and are separated by a bearing. 3. Which is better??? What's your favorite brand oil?? I always argue that thicker 80-90 sticks to the gears better when hot. A lot of others on here say that hytrans is the best because it's thinner and gets into the bearings easier. Supposedly there was a service bulletin saying updating the gear oil spec to hytrans when it became available. The hytrans guys are starting to win me over. Thinking about my 185, it has similar rear end and transmission setup and using hytrans everywhere. You might speed up some drips if you switch to the thinner oil. |
Posted By: Brian G. NY
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2017 at 10:20am
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1. Its hard to see but behind the frame on the bottom of the pump control housing is a 1/8" pipe plug. 2. The one at the bottom of the PTO housing is the one "under the clutch housing". Believe it or not, the tractor could have been had without a PTO. 3. I used 80/90 in the trans/diff/clutch housing as well as the final drives. However, if I were to change fluids again I would probably use the Hytran fluid. |
Posted By: Brian G. NY
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2017 at 10:22am
| Sorry Dave, I was typing while you were posting; I think we both said about the same thing anyway. |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2017 at 11:21am
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Thanks Dave and Brian - much appreciated. Next step is to crawl under there and start draining fluids. One more question about the final drives - I read a post that said to remove the covers to drain/clean them. I thought there were drain plugs that I could remove. Which way would you go? Thanks again! Dave ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: sparky
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2017 at 12:02pm
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If you are talking about the bull gear pans I always remove them. Clean them up and replace with a new gasket and lube. On a couple of my frequently used tractors I have welded 3/8's pipe couplers on the bottom of the pan for a drain.
------------- It's the color tractor my grandpa had! |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2017 at 1:28pm
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Thanks, Sparky. Yup, I was referring to the bull gear pans. Dave ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2017 at 1:52pm
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Anything sent to the shop for work I don't do get's holes drilled with a coupling/plug added near the bottom for total draining down the road. Would remove the bottom covers myself and have them retro'd but the last two on D-Series I could not get off. They can be stuck on there pretty good and I did not want to damage the ones I tried. Mechanic advised my D17IV rear pans were a bear to remove. |
Posted By: Bill_MN
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2017 at 2:33pm
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I had hy-trans in mine but every time I went on a tractor ride the oil would bubble up and out the top of the gear shift tower under the boot from being tossed around by the gears. Switched to 80-90 gear oil and it's much better and also runs cooler under all conditions. Something to consider
------------- 1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2017 at 7:19pm
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Very interesting! I like the idea of drains for the finals... Has anyone else had Bill's trouble with hytran in the tranny/diff/pto? I could use hytran in the hydraulic reservoir and 80 in the tranny, etc...... Dave ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: sparky
Date Posted: 01 Mar 2017 at 10:13pm
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I do bull pans one at a time by taking the rear wheel assembly off. Pans easy to remove then and a lot easier to clean the surfaces and replace.
------------- It's the color tractor my grandpa had! |
Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2017 at 8:00am
| My fluids have gotten contaminated so I'm going to drain all fluids, fill with diesel, drive around and cycle the loader while driving. Won't take very long to flush everything and get the old oil completely out. |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2017 at 11:33am
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I would be afraid to run diesel through the hydraulics. Might hurt the pump, but maybe someone with more experience will chime in. Don't run it for too long either with diesel in the read end either. not much lubrication properties in diesel. |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2017 at 11:50am
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Status report: I have drained all bodily cavities on the WD45 except the finals. The hydraulic reservoir gave me a short gush of water, then oil. Now I'm faced with three questions: 1. Seems as though the question of which oil to use in the tranny/diff/pto is unclear. Hytran or 80 wgt? 2. How do I get oil into the finals???? My tractor has a cultivator or planter frame bolted on, and the brackets that are bolted to the finals are a lot in the way! I'd like to find a funnel-with-tube that's long enough to allow me to fill the finals from above. I'm about to go searching online, but I'd be happy to hear from anyone who has seen one lately. 3. Is the pto box lubed from the tranny filler? After re-reading some posts above, I realized that I haven't drained that box yet, and I didn't see any filler on the box itself. Thanks a lot! Dave
------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2017 at 12:00pm
| I fill my finals with a outboard grease pump. It's jut a plastic pump that screws on the top of an oil jug. With a plastic hose attached. Stick the hose it the hole and start pumping. It takes a lot of pumps but the plastic hose is clear and small enough that it'll fit in between the gear and the pan. Before I got it I used a half quart pump oil can with a long flexible spout. Stick it in the hole and start pumping. It really dosent hold a lot of oil. I've never taken my pans off and cleaned. I just stuck one of those oil pumps you stick down a dipstick tube and pumped out what I could. It's got to be warm for it to work though 90 w dosent pump out real well. But if I drive it a couple miles first it pumps out ok. |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2017 at 12:10pm
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Thanks, Dave. I'll look for an outboard grease pump. I suspect that there's little or no lube in the finals - I had to use the hot wrench to get one of the plugs loose which suggests that it's been a LONG time since any fresh lube got in there! The other one - not so bad.
------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: ac160
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2017 at 12:30pm
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I use the oil the manual calls for. On filling the finals a syringe works good, but takes time. Going from memory there are two fill locations for the transmission and pto. The pto is fulled with the transmission. The manual points out the locations. |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2017 at 12:49pm
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ac160, thanks for your help. I've got an outboard motor lube pump on order - small money and it might do the job with the finals. ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2017 at 1:17pm
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I have a suction gun that works very well for this. It's not like the metal ones that look like the cartridge end of a grease gun, it's plastic with actual seals so it doesn't make a mess and holds 1.5 qts. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2017 at 1:19pm
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Hytran being thinner may cause more leaks. I stuck with what TOM said. That's Tractor Operator's Manual so I used the 80 weight. ------------- 1957 WD45 dad's first AC 1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 02 Mar 2017 at 4:33pm
Drained the pto. When I removed the plug, nothing came out at first. After a moment or two, some of the nastiest slop I've ever seen began to drain out the unit.  Anyway, tomorrow will be re-fill day.------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 05 Mar 2017 at 6:42pm
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So refill is underway. I now own an outboard motor lower case oil pump. Worked slick on the finals! 5 qts into the engine. New filter. Holding off on the 6th qt until all that new oild has a chance to drain down and I spin the engine to run some oil through the filter. Tomorrow I'll do the hydraulic reservoir and then tranny, etc.
------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |