so what do I do to correct this
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=133792
Printed Date: 05 Nov 2025 at 9:52am
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Topic: so what do I do to correct this
Posted By: grinder220
Subject: so what do I do to correct this
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2017 at 7:12pm
  I'm looking to straighten up a my 7040 and 50. As you can see in the pictures the front of the side panels stick out from the grill and then on the doors they also are not flush with the cab. The top of the door fits the way it should but as you get to the bottom they stick out a ways. Seems like all the 7000 series tractors around here are this way. I'm sure they didn't come new like this right? |
Replies:
Posted By: Stan R
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2017 at 7:32pm
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why not accept it and use something like this to pull in where you have a gap?: http://www.lockhartphillipsusa.com/LP-USA-D-RING-SCREW-FASTENER-KIT-BLACK.html" rel="nofollow - d-ring |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2017 at 8:02pm
| stratigic bending? |
Posted By: Michael V (NM)
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2017 at 9:36pm
| I don't know what to do with the side hoods,, I would also like to know.,,,the doors, try putting a block at the top, then try pushing in at the bottom to try and 're-spring' the door... or as Steve calls it, strategic bending...My 7060 door fits really good,,its an early model,,, jus like your's |
Posted By: LB0442
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2017 at 10:00pm
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The door is just the opposite of the ones I've had. Usually the top is sprung out due to the ball/spring assembly too stiff and getting hard to shut the door. That lower hinge on the door is slightly adjustable, the allen head counter sunk screws go into plate on the cab frame that can be moved around. If you take all 3 out the plate will just fall out below the fender. Just try to loosen them and push it in slightly, possible elongate the holes if needed. On the side panels it is a combination of the top has been bent up(where the tabs go into the center section) and people pulling on them to get them off over the years. The side panel must have the rubber bumpers on top of the center panel for them to sit on to get a correct height. Make sure the tabs are not bent away from the sides, should go straight in the center section. The ones that I have done that look the best I have had to recurve that top section, then straighten out the front. I use a long block of wood I have cut a radius in then work top part down. Ive done a little body work and its hard to explain. This is just what has worked for me. Or you can lower the front anchor for the panel and it might pull it a little straighter? It has quite a bit of adjustment to it. Course then it would make that front clip really tight.
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Posted By: LB0442
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2017 at 10:05pm
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This is the auveco number for the rubber bumpers, box of 25. http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/searchresults.asp?Search=13967" rel="nofollow - http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/searchresults.asp?Search=13967 This is the exact copy of the original and waaay cheaper than agco.
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Posted By: LB0442
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2017 at 10:21pm
| I know I get long winded but I forgot to mention. The allen head screws that are on the lower hinge probably haven't been out since new. You can get penetrating oil on the threads through the opening below the fender. Look for the plate and you can see the threads up there. Ya I've stripped a few of those heads. |
Posted By: grinder220
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2017 at 7:52am
| Thanks for the tips Lon. I'll see what I can do starting with the door. I can live with the side panels if I have to for now but the gap at the bottom of the doors really needs addressed especially on the 7040,it has a half inch gap between the door and the seal. The link you posted for the bumpers just says category not found. |
Posted By: LB0442
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2017 at 9:23am
| Since the link didn't work, the website is clipsandfasteners.com , part number 13967. 6 bucks for a box of 25, they are usually pretty reasonable on shipping. |
Posted By: LB0442
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2017 at 12:04pm
| One thing to add. Whenever you have to adjust a panel that is latched, doors, hood, trunk lid, always remove the latch or striker and adjust it without pressure. Then after you get your panel gaps and depth adjusted where you want them, adjust the striker to that. That will save a lot of frustration fighting the latches and you will get a better feel opening and closing. |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2017 at 12:24pm
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I remember watching the guys at Crenlo reworking Cat cab doors that didn't quite fit right before being shipped to Peoria IL. With no windows in the door but door installed on cab, if the door was sprung out too far at the bottom like yours, they would put what looked like a 4 x 4 between the middle of the door and the cab frame and use a wooden maul to wail on the door at the bottom. Can't gve any details as I never worked at that station when I was there. I'm sure they were experienced and knew every trick. Could have been a large rubber maul. 3 foot long handle, nothing small. Of curse if they dented something they would send it to welding to fill in the dent with weld and then grind smooth. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: Ron(AB)
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2017 at 1:25pm
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RE: the door I first would make sure the hinges are straight / not bent. Sometimes they rust over winter (no one ever oils them) then they can stretch or bend when first using the tractor in spring. Maybe oil them a bit since your working on the door. Yours may be good… but I've seen some that have sat outside too long. My 7050 door works tight and my 7000 I'm unsure if it ever fit tight. |