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L2 feeder beater plugging

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=129826
Printed Date: 07 Jun 2025 at 11:05pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: L2 feeder beater plugging
Posted By: Mike Plotner
Subject: L2 feeder beater plugging
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2016 at 10:36am
cant seem to keep the beater from plugging. will do it no matter if its in tall beans, short beans, thick, thin or weedy. tightened the cylinder down and sped it up as fast as conditions would allow and it helped some. going to try and adjust/shim the clutch and see if that helps. if not, what will be the next best route to go?

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2001 Gleaner R42, 1978 7060, 1977 7000, 1966 190 XT, 1966 D-17 Series IV and 1952 WD and more keep my farm running!



Replies:
Posted By: Pete from IL
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2016 at 10:44am
See if the slip clutch jaws have any grease on them or if they are wore. Clean the grease off if there is any. I always ran some extra shims on the springs , otherwise couldn't seem to get much done.


Posted By: old farmer
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2016 at 11:00am
Check your cylinder bars for Wear. They can also a plugging problem. Have seen it many times where they were the problem.


Posted By: AMB(wcIL)
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2016 at 12:08pm
I 2nd cylinder bars. Our M3 did the same thing until we put new bars in.


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2016 at 12:12pm
The slip clutch has enough pockets for 8 springs. Make sure you have 8 springs. When assembled, the gap between the shaft end and the spring squeeze plate is to be 5/16". I will almost guarantee you have more gap than that, because the backside of the slip clutch hub is augering its way into the lock collar on the shafts bearing. You'll need a new lock collar and plenty of shims to space it back out. There is a good picture in the OWNERS MANUAL describing all of this.


Posted By: Mike Plotner
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2016 at 12:57pm
It was at 3/8, so I took a shim out to get it to 5/16, and added a shim behind each spring. I had 4, will go to 8 next


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2001 Gleaner R42, 1978 7060, 1977 7000, 1966 190 XT, 1966 D-17 Series IV and 1952 WD and more keep my farm running!


Posted By: TREVMAN
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2016 at 1:36pm
Floating or fixed beater? If it is the fixed beater, move it as high as it will go. I don't know why they all didn't come with the floating beater. It was smaller in diameter, and moved 3 inches ? up to put a slug through. Our M2 had the fixed, it was the "pinch point" in the combine. L3 had the floater, I think we could have fed a small block chevy through there...Trev.


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2016 at 2:03pm
Floating beaters will not work in corn, and generally if you have corn, you have soybeans, which when green and tough, stress a feeder beater. UP position for corn and beans, yes.


Posted By: wekracer
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2016 at 3:15pm
I've had problems with mine too. I have it set at 1/4". The book said only 4 springs and I was afraid to add more. I did raise it up and that helped some. I may raise it more. It's only a problem now in green stems.


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2016 at 4:04pm
Any less than 1/4" on that clutch dimension will see to it the clutch might not be able to slip at all. I'm just saying.....there's a point to where the springs are collapsed enough the jaws of the clutch can't climb over each other. Usually breaks the chain if it can't slip. Sometimes it bends the shaft.


Posted By: Mike Plotner
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2016 at 7:41pm
put all 8 in as per the doctors orders. seems to be holding together well now

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2001 Gleaner R42, 1978 7060, 1977 7000, 1966 190 XT, 1966 D-17 Series IV and 1952 WD and more keep my farm running!


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2016 at 8:53pm
I'm with Old farmer, cylinder bars.
 Like Dr Allis said shim between bearing collar and clutch hub NOT behind springs.    MACK


Posted By: TREVMAN
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2016 at 8:58pm
Please tell me why the floater does not work in corn, I am curious Dr. Allis. Our L3 had a decal beside the cab, Sorghum and I cant remember special. But it had a floating beater, it was not a Windrow Plus. Why it got shipped to the prairies, don't really know. Don't really know what was different about it, but it was an excellent machine. Trev.


Posted By: Dans 7080
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2016 at 9:04pm
Add springs and flip or replace cyl bars.

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When someone tells you Nothings Impossible, Tell them to slam a revolving door


Posted By: Jwmac7060
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2016 at 9:13pm
Do you have all the fingers in the feeder beater...if you do,you need to replace your cylinder bars...Ive seen it too many times


Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 11 Oct 2016 at 10:03pm
corn will cause the floating beater to bounce and break the hinges and crack the brg flanges. Simply lift the beater, drill holes in the angle plate upper stop and bolt it in the up position.  The floating beater is super with a spike cylinder or hard surface rasp bar - finally the floating beater must have the metal guides install in lieu of the plastic ones.  The shorter 9/16 fingers will live ok...+

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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..


Posted By: TREVMAN
Date Posted: 12 Oct 2016 at 10:14am
Thanks for the explanation, that makes sense, Trev.


Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 12 Oct 2016 at 10:40am
We went through that  slip clutch deal and as usual Dr Allis has it right on. As the others said worn bars will also cause it and  a visual means of checking your bars is as easy as looking at the discharge from the machine as it lays on the ground. It should be even, if it is in bunches the bars need replaced, you can turn them as stop gap but its a lot of work for short term gain.  Everytime I helped someone with worn out bar problems the comments were always the same "its like a new combine again"


Posted By: D17JIM2
Date Posted: 12 Oct 2016 at 10:40am
Better cylinder bars or close cylinder spacing. I ran my Brothers M3's a couple of years ago when he was laid up and kept breaking feeder beater chains. the clutch was set right and the bars were good. So, my brother told me to close up the cylinder clearance. Worked fine after that.  Settings were not like My IH combine I owned years ago. This was in beans and the book setting wasn't as close as my brother recommended.


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 12 Oct 2016 at 1:32pm
Conventional Gleaners require LESS clearance to pull material through.Sometimes people think wider will get more through and it might on other colors but not the Silver.



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