Antifreeze
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=128766
Printed Date: 30 Apr 2025 at 5:08pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Antifreeze
Posted By: WDDave
Subject: Antifreeze
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2016 at 8:40pm
|
What antifreeze do you guys use in your wet sleeve gas engines? maybe I am over thinking this but I have read for dry sleeve engines you can use any automotive antifreeze. But for wet sleeve engines you need a SCA type (supplemental coolant additive) Supposedly minimizes cavitation? I always thought it was only diesels that had to have that type antifreeze. As always any thoughts are appreciated. ------------- WD ,wide front, with loader |
Replies:
Posted By: Ted in NE-OH
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2016 at 9:13pm
|
Regular antifreeze here with no additional additives. ------------- CA, WD, C, 3 Bs, 2 Gs, WC, I-400, 914 |
Posted By: CALEBnOK
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2016 at 9:20pm
|
Lets start with the traditional IAT coolant (GREEN). The modern version has all the SCA's but they become ineffective over time. Suggested adding the proper Sca amount in over the road trucks every 25,000 miles. If remember correctly your supposed to remove green coolant from service after 2 years. Mixing green- 50/50 perfect. 70/30 strong can cause cavition even with SCA's and eat impellars liners etc. If you use a "red" colored use a NOAT coolant. This is what Caterpillar suggests. The original Red coolant was a non nitraded OAT coolant (gm's dexcool, the orangeish red texaco) was tested for along period of time and found OAT coolants to cause electrolysis corrosion of liners in caterpillar engines. They insisted on nitrate additives, hence "N"OAT. NOAT coolants are extended life. What that means is they are good for 4 years and are supposed to be taken out of service. After that your additives dont function properly. Another note- Color! Yellow, pink, clear, red, orange, purple. Almost all are OAT's, NOAT's or HOAT's NEVVVVVEEERRRR MIX COOLANT BRANDS OR COLOR NO MATTER WHAT THEY CLAIM! Ive seen first hand the damage it can cause to cooling system when a claimed mixable coolant was used. You can find this info from sources that are not biased to color or brand like S.A.E. etc. Personal experiences- i use an NOAT *Red* in modern engines. Eapecially qith lots of aluminum components. Ive also found in the case of all modern diesels i work on reds tend to leak easier. One drilling rig with (3) 3512 caterpillars will almost always have a weep hole in pump dripping or a gasket or oring slightly leaking. Green on a rig with (3) 3512 cats never seem to seep or leak. But i have seen them eat the brass out of thermostats and waterpump impellars disappear due to being mixed to stout Green to me is a safe bet with proper maintenance by testing coolant and adding Sca's when needed. I run green in all older engines and or heavy duty cases. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2016 at 9:37pm
|
normal green is fine.......... the yellow extended life is longer lasting... don't like DEXCOOL or orange ... too easy to get screwed up with other vehicles.. DONT MIX as said above. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: CALEBnOK
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 7:04am
|
Idont think it does this anymore but Gm's dexcool when it first came out, would turn to brown jelly when mixed with traditional green. In doing my research at work for coolant; we found that it was beat not to use red coolant on a good used engine that had previously eun green. The residue from green inside messes with the additives of red and ruins it. We found this on our 4 month engine inspections. With green you can adjust by adding straight antifreeze and add you SCA's. Reds dead once it gets out of whack. |
Posted By: BigBadAllis
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 7:36am
Very good and precise response. I hope everyone takes note on the details which will save time, money and future frustration. Coolant along with lubricants is an important item to maintain properly and monitor but is all to often neglected. Jason |
CALEBnOK wrote:Posted By: WDDave
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 9:12am
|
Thanks guys for your input. I have straight water in my WD now ,need to drain before winter. Green seems to have the vote so I will go with that. ------------- WD ,wide front, with loader |
Posted By: LB0442
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 9:28am
| A good quality antifreeze is a must but a lot of people use tap water which is just as bad as old antifreeze. Distilled water at walmart or your grocery store is .75 or $1.00 a gallon and well worth it for a cooling system. The calcium and minerals in hard water will cause a lot of buildup. |
Posted By: WD45Diesel57
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 11:18am
|
I always use the john deere cool gard in everything its pre mixed and has anti cavitation additives for bigger motors and its no more money to buy ------------- 1-B's, 2-C, 2-CA's,2-WF, 1-WC,1-G, 3-WD's, 2-WD45, 1-RC, 1-D17 Diesel, 1-D14, 2-D15,1-D17 row crop,1-D19 gas and All Crop 40,60,66,72,90 and 100 |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 3:10pm
| ok, what are SCA's? Special Coolant Additives? I run the green mixed 50/50 with distilled water in my WD45 and add the NAPA or John Deere conditioner. Is the conditioner your SCA's? |
Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 3:19pm
| Second the distilled water only and tried the dishwasher soap thing on a D17DIV I picked up a few years back with interesting results. Was going to drain her enough to add straight anti-freeze but did not like the looks of the crud that came out of both the radiator and block. Sliced open two dishwasher "tabs", dissolved in a quart of water and added with enough distilled water to fill her back up. Ran it about an hour, let sit overnight and ran another hour before draining. I had to make a trip to Wally World for plenty more distilled water as it took a number of cycles to get her to run clean enough before I could add the anti-freeze. |
Posted By: D17JIM2
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 3:52pm
| I have ran vinager to clean out a motor and radiator. Lots of crud comes out ! |
Posted By: WDDave
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 7:13pm
|
Ok, I am getting an antifreeze education here. CALEBnOK, very well explained, If I use green then test the coolant and add SCA's when needed.. How do you test for this?? The distilled water I have never done but will now. I know what my well water did to my copper pipes until I got tired of fixing pin holes and tore it all out to put in plastic. ------------- WD ,wide front, with loader |
Posted By: cottonpatch
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 8:30pm
|
There are test strips available that you dip and read for proper SCA levels. ------------- '52 CA, '61 D10 II, ‘61 D15, '66 D15II, '63 D17D III, ‘69 170, '73 185 Crop Hustler, '79 185, '79 7000, '77 7040 |
Posted By: rw
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 8:43pm
| Look in to Compleat from fleetgard which is a Cummins Filtration product. More info online. Simple premixed 50/50 with deionized water and balanced sca package. Ready to use straight out of the jug. That is my choice. Been through all the ordeals with coolants and SCA's and water filters with and without sca and test strips leaking water pumps and cavitated liners and blocks and silicate drop out, scale in the radiators and overheating and on and on. This product seems to answer all of the above problems better than anything to date. Side note --remember when KHD bought AC and explained that direct air cooling was the answer!! |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 9:03pm
|
How many of you use SCA on larger GAS motors ? I know it is common on diesels... I have never used addative on 1/2 ton truck or 0- 200 HP tractor gas motors. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: WDDave
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2016 at 9:10am
I have read SCA's are for diesel and heavy duty motors like 3/4 ton gas trucks and up but also engines with wet sleeves because they are more prone to cavitation causing damage (pin holing) to the sleeve. ------------- WD ,wide front, with loader |
Posted By: Dmpaul89
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2016 at 9:55am
| napa has a product called "napacool" that has the sca's. you just add the bottle to your antifreeze. kinda expensive i think was $18 a quart. i use that with my ford diesel trucks because they will get pinholes in the cylinders if you dont! |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2016 at 5:22pm
Don't just add the SCA indiscriminately. Too much is just as bad as not enough. Ford's specs are 1600 to 900 is ok. 800 to 300 can be recovered with VC8 (SCA), below 300 cannot be recovered. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2016 at 11:23pm
|
I'd lesion to Brian, and I will add if you have older sleeve O-rings in your engine, gas or Diesel don't change from the old try ed and true green just check with strips and treat.
------------- 3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep. |