My 1st Allis Model C (Updated 12-4-16)
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=128668
Printed Date: 06 Jun 2025 at 6:44am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: My 1st Allis Model C (Updated 12-4-16)
Posted By: Bensjamming
Subject: My 1st Allis Model C (Updated 12-4-16)
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 4:58pm
|
Well I received a gift of a 1945 AC model C. It has the pto shafts on the rear as well as a hydraulic lift system that looks original on it and a shafts that a pulley would go on under the seat to drive other implements. Now this is the 1st allis chalmers I have owned and my 3rd ever tractor. Prior ones being a 60s model international 300 which is gone now, and now have a Ford 881 Powermaster and this little gem. So far I just l9ve this little thing. Upon getting it I was told he thought the head gasket was bad since it overheats after light use and he just put on a new water pump and thermostat not that long ago and it didn't solve the problem. After getting it home lastnight I took a little ride for like 30 minutes and at the end the new temp gauge read in the high green area then rose slightly into the red after shutting it down. I could hear the coolant boiling a little too. After it cooled down I check the radiator and the coolant looks kinda nasty so I plan on flushing and replacing that as well as a oil change and change the fluids in the differential and what not I also pulled the valve cover off and there is so.easy white slime inside the cover from what looks like moisture so Amy be the head gasket is blown pushing coolant the into the oil a little bit? Any help or advice would be appreciated as I want to get it in great running order then fix it up cosmetically and just use it around our property for dragging trees and pulling firewood back to camp. Maybe get a blade or something for snow removal at home if it won't break the bank. Will get a few pics of it up here shortly. |
Replies:
Posted By: Bensjamming
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 5:01pm
http://s1204.photobucket.com/user/xxbenjamminxx/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160911_191940_zpsbzvyedtf.jpg.html" rel="nofollow"> http://s1204.photobucket.com/user/xxbenjamminxx/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160912_134301_zps1crftl6c.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s1204.photobucket.com/user/xxbenjamminxx/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160912_134237_zpsqsg4zbvi.jpg.html" rel="nofollow"> 
|
Posted By: Tcmtech
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 5:23pm
|
I don't suppose you have tried cleaning the radiator fins out? When it running hot is the air coming off the fan equally hot too? If it ever got used like any of our numerous tractors have, and it's rare that one hasn't, there's a good chance part of the overheating problem could be related to the radiator not being able to breath. Also you first picture needs to be a 'Gettin' ready to Cruse da hood country style." Meme.  (My daughter loves tractor rides too!)
 |
Posted By: Bensjamming
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 5:50pm
|
Yeah she is already asking if it can be hers when she is older. Lol The fins are clean. I can see right through them. Didn't check the air temp off fan if both upper and lower hoses were hot but could see the coolant swirling around in there when I started it cold for a minute this morning. At work now so cant try anything till at least 1130 tonight. |
Posted By: Bensjamming
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 6:25pm
|
What is the easiest way to be able to hook up a small rear blade onto this tractor for pulling light snow down a driveway? Anyone have some ideas or plans on how to make a simple 3 pt setup out of the hydraulic lift that's on these machines already? I'm a Welder by trade and have the equipment to fab up pretty much whatever I need. Thanks in advance, Ben |
Posted By: Bill Long
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 7:10pm
|
That is one CLEAN C. Looks like it has been restored. How lucky! A gift. For a snow plow you may want to look for a myers blade. We put a lot of them on C's and they worked very well. Are the tires loaded? That will make pushing snow or pulling anything a lot better. The B-C, CA's were rather "cold" running tractors. You are changing the fluids and that should help. Be sure to flush the cooling system. Only other thing - and I hope not -could be a plugged block. Let us know how it goes. Neat Tractor. Good Luck! Bill Long |
Posted By: Bensjamming
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 7:12pm
|
Never has been restored. Was just told it has never spent a night outside in the last 45 years and that was the only stipulation to me getting it for free, is it has to be stored indoors. Im also getting a restored massey harris 33 from as well as soon as I go pick it up. |
Posted By: Hubert (Ga)engine7
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 7:13pm
|
Ben, welcome to the Forum. There are several vendors on this site that sell 3 point kits for the B and C, but if someone on here will send you some pictures you could fabricate your own. The overheating could be caused by water passages in the engine and /or the radiator being blocked by years of crud buildup which can be a problem to remove. The B's and C's usually run a bit on the cool side unless you have a problem. That is a nice looking C with good tires on it. And I see you already have a driver for it. ------------- Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God. |
Posted By: Bensjamming
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 7:13pm
With the Meyers plow do you mount it the bar underneath for the implements? And how do you raise and lower it? I was thinking just a rear scraper blade myself but if that's going to work better and be easier I'll go that route. |
Bill Long wrote:Posted By: Tcmtech
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 7:20pm
Yep. My daughter's the same way, Almost 8 now. Don't want the old Farmall A fixed up for her. She wants Grandpas old Case 1150 dozer so she can push stuff and blow smoke with it. Then unfortunately you're probably right. it isn't just a radiator problem unless you have a lot of mineral deposit crust built up that's either plugging or insulating many of the inner passages of the core. That old Case dozer was like that when we got it. Good circulation but very little heat transfer and ended up be a near $1000 recore job to fix it.
 |
Posted By: Bill Long
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 7:31pm
|
With the Meyers plow do you mount it the bar underneath for the
implements? And how do you raise and lower it? I was thinking just a
rear scraper blade myself but if that's going to work better and be
easier I'll go that route. The Myers blade for the C pushed in front of the front wheels. It got it's lift from a cable hooked to the lift arm with a series of pulleys that lifted the blade. Be sure you get a blade not much wider that the rear tires, otherwise you would have too much blade for the tractor. There was a B in one of the older posts with a Myers plow on it. Different tractor but mounted almost the same. Perhaps someone has pictures or diagrams. You might want to try the Myers web site. Perhaps they would have a parts book. If you were really lucky they may have some brackets in New Old Stock. Good Luck! Bill Long |
Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 7:38pm
It's been repainted. It has incorrect decals and orange rear rims.
|
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 7:52pm
1. High green is OK, but these engines tend to run too cool not to the warm side. If the radiator shutters are all the way open it should probably stay closer to the low side of the green. ANY engine will show higher temp after you shut it down, that's not a problem. 2. Flushing is probably a good idea. 3. With the valve cover off, look for core plugs in the top of the head. If they leak a little bit, it can cause the milk shake in the oil. They MAY look OK but they rust from the bottom side and will eventually leak, letting coolant drain down into the oil pan. NOT a thing to let happen because antifreeze in the oil will destroy your bottom end bearings in a short time. This is a cheap and easy thing to fix. Core plugs, or Frost plugs can be bought for a couple dollars and once the coolant is drained down below the head level, you can drive a screw driver thru the old ones and pop them out. Clean the casting with sandpaper and wipe a SMALL bit of sealant around the hole and tap a new plug in. The tractor may have never been "RESTORED" but it HAS been repainted. There never was a "C" decal on a C and the rear rims were never painted Orange. They were galvanized. That being said, I wish somebody would give me a couple tractors to store inside ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 8:20pm
Thanks! I hear guys saying they were painted, which starts a whole other argument Lol I think Bill Long said it depended on the supplier, so maybe everyone is partially right.
|
Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 8:57pm
|
What you have here is what is known as a "Short Arm C" referring to the short steering arms. They are very early Cs. The short arms were replaced by long arms at C#18163 that would be in late 1942. Beginning number to be a 43 is C#18782 If in fact,as you say,it is a 1945 C the tractor number should fall between C30695 and C36377 I'm surprised no one has pointed this out before me. If your numbers match the numbers for a 1945 the transmission was probably changed. Probably a Restored Tractor. Nice C regardless of year it is. The forward facing drawbar under the tractor is used with Tractor mounted B/C plows. The plow debth control lever is missing. I have that lever if you ever need it to mount a plow. The two lift levers in the rear are also part of the C Left right two Plow setup. |
Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 9:17pm
 Here is a picture of a left right 2 plow set up on a B for reference. The ones on the B are independently operated up and down by hydraulics. The two hand levers on the C here indicate the plows were independently raised and lowered by hand. Look close at the B and you can see the plow debth control lever to the right of the steering wheel |
Posted By: Bensjamming
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 9:33pm
|
There is a lever on both the left and right sides similar to yours. The right side raises and lowers the bracket in front of the rear wheels the plow woulster attach too and the other one on the left moves an arm with 2 steel rods or bars that are mounted the end of it. If I recall the serial number was right in the middle of the 1945 serial range. Is there anywhere else I can look for a matching number? Also any idea what the steel rods are on the ends of the rock shafts I believe it's called. The hydraulic lift bar? |
Posted By: Bensjamming
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 9:36pm
http://s1204.photobucket.com/user/xxbenjamminxx/media/20160912_134247_zpshsfm6bgj.jpg.html" rel="nofollow"> In this image you can see the 2 handles that are either side for the lift. If you look right behind the slow moving vehicle sign the rods I'm asking about are standing up against the sign. The other side has 2 of them as well.... |
Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 9:49pm
|
Man alive. This C has real C fenders what aren't rusted half away up. Those goofy aftermarket headlamps got to go. That funky excuse for a drawbar extension needs to go too. A real AC B/C swinging drawbar would look perfect back there. Doing it right makes it worth doing on a FREE tractor |
Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 10:02pm
|
Ben sorry me can't see a plow debth control lever on your C. My plow debth control lever bolts to the footrest on the brake side. That rockshaft "tool Bar" with the two levers were also used with C two row cultivators. |
Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 10:09pm
| Ask your guy that gave you the C if it once had plows or a set of cultivators. Why they leave important attaching parts for implements stay on the tractor when nobody without the rest of the implements can use them for squat. |
Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 10:22pm
|
One more Question and I'm going to bed. Are there any hydraulic cylinders up under the seat I cant see and is there a two way valve in the hydraulic line system anywhere?. We can hash this mess out later. one more thing. Is there any kind of bracket bolted with 2 bolts to the top of the final drive housings between the tire and the fender? |
Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 10:30pm
| Is that a 450r behind it |
Posted By: Bensjamming
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 10:32pm
|
There is a small high psi cylinder under the seat on the right side of the tractor. I'll be off of work in 30 min and will check it out then n put up some more pics. Thanks for the help it is really appreciated. |
Posted By: Bensjamming
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 10:32pm
Close, its the oldest kids 400ex. |
Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 10:49pm
| Oh you know I was going to say that first but I thought I would be date in myself lol |
Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 11:01pm
|
Ken Only the B uses that front plow adjuster lever. The c uses the levers on the rear rock shaft to adjust depth. A manual lift for the C is very similar to the manual lift on a B and mounts on the right side of the tractor. Bob ------------- 4 B's, 1 C's,3 CA's, 2 G's WD, D14, D15, B-1, B10, B12, 712S, |
Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 11:18pm
|
I finally figured it out CB after digging out my B/C tractor mounted plow manual. What he has there and won't use could make somebody with a C and a plow with no mounting hardware a very happy camper. Having never set up a plow on a C I was just guessing. What are the 4 rods attached to the rock shaft he is taking about? One pair is up the other hangs down. I guess the big ? is what year is it? and What happened to the plow? |
Posted By: Bensjamming
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2016 at 12:43am
|
Here are some pictures of everything along with a shirt video. 1st pic is the left side and the 2nd and 3rd are of the right that raises and lowers the bracket in front of the rear wheels. http://s1204.photobucket.com/user/xxbenjamminxx/media/20160912_233714_zps1sduefmy.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s1204.photobucket.com/user/xxbenjamminxx/media/20160912_233048_zpslvigrshy.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s1204.photobucket.com/user/xxbenjamminxx/media/20160912_232950_zpssaqdcewj.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  PTO and Hydraulic pump and cylinder http://s1204.photobucket.com/user/xxbenjamminxx/media/20160912_233007_zpszm3aevte.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s1204.photobucket.com/user/xxbenjamminxx/media/20160912_233023_zpsrupn3byb.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  White slime in valve cover and top of head with rockers http://s1204.photobucket.com/user/xxbenjamminxx/media/20160912_234042_zpsjlao2u4r.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s1204.photobucket.com/user/xxbenjamminxx/media/20160912_234114_zpsmztgw4i3.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  Carb / Alternator http://s1204.photobucket.com/user/xxbenjamminxx/media/20160912_234114_zpsmztgw4i3.jpg.html" rel="nofollow"> Sanded the serial number to see it better http://s1204.photobucket.com/user/xxbenjamminxx/media/20160912_233601_zpsziwqbwci.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  1 other view of the lower bracket where plow would attach http://s1204.photobucket.com/user/xxbenjamminxx/media/20160912_234641_zpssnmcatgn.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  Video will come soon. Still uploading... |
Posted By: Bensjamming
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2016 at 1:07am
|
Also after sanding the paint off the serial number it dates to a 1942. The 2nd year the C was made. My mistake on it being a 45. Serial number is C15331 |
Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2016 at 6:30am
|
Correct. Your C is 1942 Beginning # to be a 1942 is C12389 Thanks to Tuck I corrected my mistake made here early this morning before coffee What is your Engine Serial #? Early Cs had the engine # stamped into the small flat spot on the back of the block above the clutch housing before the engine serial on Cs were stamped in the top edge of the left hand rear flange of the engine block. # begins with CE. The engine casting # is also a valuable tool in dating when the block was cast. By using the last number of the casting number (the raised numbers on the right side of the block above the center welch plug). As a rule you can date what year the block was cast by using that last number. The first blocks like these were first cast in 1937 for the beginning of the 38B production year. Casting # ended in a 9. Blocks cast in 38 ended in 10. Cast in 39 a 11. 40 a 12, 41 a 13 and so on at least until shortly after WW2. I suspect your block if cast in 41 should end in a 13. Lots of times you can find a rather small raised rectangular bump somewhere on the block with the actual date the block was cast. The bump was made by a small piece of whatever with the date on it screwed to the mold. You can actually see the imprint of the slotted screws at each end on the raised bump. Now lets look at the head for a casting date. Clean the gunk away from the bottom of the oil galley. Look for the actual day, month, year numbers the head was cast. From head to head the numbers are not always in the same place. Don't ask me WHY or how I know all this Trivia. lol One more bit of C trivia. C tractors prior to C#5756 had hand brakes. 111 Cs came off the production line in 1940. 84030 Cs were built. The CA replaced them |
Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2016 at 6:49am
| Nice to see the hood was not butchered to use a above hood muffler. To be correct a under the hood muffler was used when the C was new. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2016 at 6:55am
|
If the oil isn't milky, I would say that foamy film on the rocker cover is from condensation. Short run times can cause condensation and if the engine is running hot that may add to it? If you don't know the history of the engine, it would be a good time to replace those 3 core plugs as a preventative measure anyway. Looking at the pictures of the hydraulics, you can see more evidence of repaint with splatters of paint on the hose. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Bensjamming
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2016 at 7:22am
| Oh yeah I'm sure the paint has been touched up and redone since he was obsessed with keeping rust at bay by not allowing it to start to begin with. He has just maintained it over the years replacing what was necessary and never let it get to the point it needed a restoration. |
Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2016 at 7:23am
|
I noticed grey primer up under the seat too. I don't remember ever seeing gray primer on any B or C. Cs had a serious fender rust problem because they were assembled with unprimed parts and painted PO#1 after assembly. The unprimed, unpainted area between the fender and the support would hold rain water a create a real rust sandwich. For the age of this C the paint don't look old Allis orange enough or the right orange to be original |
Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2016 at 7:26am
| one more thing. I question the tall looking stack on the air cleaner. Does it measure more than 12 Inches? War time Cs beginning with C15714 had the tall 22 inch air cleaner stack. I know it is not a 22 inch stack but it looks be more than 12 inches by a little bit. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2016 at 7:31am
|
Ken, I don't know where you got your numbers from, but 18781 is the LAST C in 1942 according to this sites list. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2016 at 7:52am
| Your Right Tuck. The beginning number in 1943 is 18782. AC Data Book by Terry Dean. My mistake. I need reading glasses especially when I get up in the Morning This C is a short arm 1942 . Thanks for pointing this boo boo on my part out. |
Posted By: Bensjamming
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2016 at 11:13am
|
Here is the little video I made of it. Maybe will be able to see more then just the pictures are showing. http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb416/xxbenjamminxx/Mobile%20Uploads/20160912_233722_zpswi0duot7.mp4" rel="nofollow">  |
Posted By: jange01
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2016 at 12:08pm
|
Regarding your overheating after light use issue. Check your ignition timing to be sure it's not to retarded (late), as that will cause overheating. The white you see is definitely moisture, could just be from condensation though. As others have said make sure you are not getting coolant into your oil pan. If you are resolve it, as it will eat up the bearings if it hasn't already. Jim |
Posted By: BrianC
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2016 at 1:07pm
|
You may be able to figure out how those rods worked the cultivator by reading over this thread. The linkage under the foot brakes may be for lifting several attachments, including a front blade. My tractor has the link. It is not needed to operate the 80 series cultivator. However, this C did at one point have the front blade, and the right and left rear plows. http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=78211&title=allis-chalmers-c-cultivator-setup" rel="nofollow - http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=78211&title=allis-chalmers-c-cultivator-setup True a normal C is a cold running engine, relative to others. As for overheating: massive amounts of crud in block and radiator thermostat upside down or stuck. lower radiator metal elbow replaced with rubber hose that collapses under suction of operation. I can't see clearly in the left side picture, under the alternator. retarded timing- initial setting wrong, and/or advance mechanism stuck. When changing oil, I like to do it after tractor has set for weeks, that way coolant can settle out of the oil, crack open the oil drain plug and capture the first cup. Examine that for water. |
Posted By: Ken in Texas
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2016 at 1:49pm
|
I see in a couple of photos a pair of brackets bolted with two bolts to the top back side of the final drive housings between the tire and fender. I see them left on lots of Cs. They are part of a C Cultivator set attaching hardware package. What they do I can't remember. I think they are part of the rear gang that lift after the front gangs at the end of the row At one time there were plenty of C attachments to go around. Putting together a complete plow or cultivator set these days is a real challenge. |
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2016 at 10:19pm
|
Welcome to the forum! Its nice to see another guy on here from my neck of the woods! My dad grew up in Marinette and we live down by Gillett/Shawano now. Those rods on the back of your lift arms are for the C cultivators. You already have the brakets for the mounted plow, but there was also a sickle mower and a planter that one could get for the C. The white oily goo on the valve cover is from condensation. I would say you do not have any coolant in you oil, otherwise the oil on top of the cylinder head would look milky. Your overheating problem might be a too lean of a carb setting in addition to some of the other problems mentioned above. If you have any other questions, feel free to give me a call at 920-598-1287 Congratulations on your new orange tractor! ------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
Posted By: Bensjamming
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 12:09pm
Thank you very much! I actually got this tractor from out on two creek road not that far from you now. I will be heading back down there sometime soon to get that massey harris 33 as well. I'm sure I'll have more questions as I get into it some more so thank you for your willingness to help. Getting excited to get it all ready to go and hopefully get some sort of snow plow on it and use it from plowing the driveways. And then have it up at camp during the summers. |
Posted By: Bensjamming
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2016 at 9:20pm
|
Well made it back down there and it was a 333 massey not the 33 which is nice. Has a normal 3 point setup on it as well as live pto. Also when I was down there he gave me the easy Rider seat for the Model C. Said he bought and put on the bench seat so the kids had some where to sit and go for rides. Probably leave that one on til the kids are a little older but everything is there to switch it back and forth now. Hope the flushing of the block and radiator will cure my overheating get problems. Did get quite a bit of junk out of it. Almost looked like newspaper in there coming get out when I was flushing get besides the seal all flakes. |
Posted By: HD6GTOM
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2016 at 8:54am
|
Ben when I worked for a lumber yard in the 1960's, the boss ran the cheapest oil he could buy in his fleet of trucks. They all looks worse than that under the valve cover. The local mechanic advised him to switch brands. When he did it eliminated that crap and cleaned up the problem. |
Posted By: Bensjamming
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2016 at 6:05pm
| Just to be sure the radiator cap for my C should be an unpressurized cap? |
Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2016 at 10:07pm
|
As stated, the rods attached to the rear rockshaft are part of the cultivator lifting mechanism. There are tubes the slide over the rods and go to the front cultivator gangs. The plow drawbar is the gadget mounted under the tractor. It only raises and lower a shot distance because it is the depth control for the plow. The plow itself lifts off of the rear rockshaft. Fun littler tractor you have, enjoy it. LOL Bob ------------- 4 B's, 1 C's,3 CA's, 2 G's WD, D14, D15, B-1, B10, B12, 712S, |
Posted By: Bensjamming
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2016 at 12:01am
| Wish I had the cultivator. I'm gonna have to try and find a picture with that style drawbar and linkage to get an idea of what to even be looking for. This is all very new to me yet. If you told me a year ago i'd have 3 vintage tractors I would have laughed at ya and told you your nuts. Crazy how fast things turn around. Seen that ford for a great deal and it came with a loader, a rotary cutter, and a rear blade my father and I decided it would work good for pulling firewood trailers and leveling the driveway. Now we have a fleet and the attachment are piling up too. You find all kinds of uses for them once you have them. |
Posted By: Bensjamming
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2016 at 1:28pm
|
One other question here. What is this capped fitting for on the side of the thermostat housing? Just to burp air out of the system? http://s1204.photobucket.com/user/xxbenjamminxx/media/20160928_132558_zpsksuenmib.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  |
Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2016 at 4:05pm
| Looking along the right side underneath the seat is the one cyl. This indicates to me that it was used to plow with. For the cultivator it had two sets of those rods the guys have been talking about that run from the back to the front. It also had two cylinders, one to lift the front gang and one to lift the rear sweeps. (3) This was made so you could plow your rows all the way to the end. There was a two way valve that you could control when they lifted. There are fenders too that hang by a small chain inside each gang that you could adjust up or down to control how much dirt was put to the plants without covering them up. We always liked the spade shovels up front because they covered better, and then the crows foot on the three rear sweeps. Actually we left the middle one out until the last cultivation because if you plowed out the middle the first time through it was a son-of-a-gun to hold that little tricycle straight. Way back in a smaller, slower time, they couldn't be beat in keeping corn and beans clean. And they were unbelievable in how little gas they used. It's made tears come to my eyes to think I or anyone else will ever see those days again. I wish that I had a 20-30 acre plot of ground and all the equipment we had for a "C" just to play with. What a time we would have. Guess I'll have to be satisfied with the 45 and the stuff I do with it. Sorry for such a long commentary, but it is what it is. LOL |
Posted By: Bensjamming
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2016 at 10:01pm
|
Yeah I would sure like to get at least some cultivators for our food plots. Would fun tof play around with. Anyone have an idea what that cap on the thermostat housing is for? I'm missing the spring for inside there. I'd assume that doesn't come with a new thermostat by chance does it? |
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2016 at 10:23pm
|
Most thermostat housings don't have that pipe cap sticking out the side. I'm guessing sometime between 1940 and 2016 someone added it to bleed air, or put a preheater on. When you make it down this way next time, stop in and I can show you a set of cultivators for a C that are for sale. About the rad cap, the pressurized/unpres. are NOT interchangable. C's were made with both. ------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2016 at 8:08am
|
Ben, Welcome to the forum! Your fleet of tractors is growing quickly. Same thing happened to me! That C is a very nice tractor and the price of it and the Massey was sure right! The C is quite presentable with its new orange paint and decals. Looks like your daughter likes it too! I am not a C expert. But spent many hours on a Model B. The B was very similar in set up as your C but had wide front end. Have fun with your new projects! Lots of experts here to help you with the C! Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: Bensjamming
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2016 at 1:36pm
|
Well some good news! I soaked the radiator with a lye solution and then flushed the crappie out of it. Looks nice and clean in there now and could see water flowing almost every tube in there. Then I mixed up a 1 to 3 muriatic acid and water and poured that through the head and out the drain on the bottom. Then flushed n flushed followed by filling with water then blowing air into each the block drain and let it "boil" with the air pressure followed by more flushing. Put it all back together and now the flow from the water pump is 4 time as fast as before. Ran it about 20 minutes and only would go to about 130 on the temp gauge. There still isn't a thermostat in there so I'm thinking it will come up to temp and stay there once I get one and the spring that goes in there. Happy that it is working now to say the least! |
Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2016 at 10:09pm
|
If you have a pressurizer radiator the cap will lock on the outside of the radiator neck and will have a flange inside of the neck. A non pressurized radiator cap will interchange with the gas cap and lock inside of the neck. LOL Bob ------------- 4 B's, 1 C's,3 CA's, 2 G's WD, D14, D15, B-1, B10, B12, 712S, |
Posted By: Bensjamming
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2016 at 12:23am
|
Well managed it's been a little while since I've posted but found some cool stuff today. Just posting this here to keep it all in one place for me. Managed to find a guy pretty local who had some manuals I've been looking for, for the Massey 333 and also got a decal set for it. But while I was there I had mentioned owning a Model C too and right away asked if I needed anything for it. Low and behold he has several C sitting out back and has a belt pulley and battery box minus the lid for 20 each, as well as a complete single bottom plowith with rock shaft and all, complete spring tooth cultivator setup still mounted to the original tractor that's for sale, and a side mounted sickle mower that still mounted to another C that just need a Pittman arm if I recall correctly. What would you feel are fair prices for these attachments keeping in mind I'd have to remove them? Haven't seen any really sell around me since I have started watching so don't really have a clue as to their value, so any input would be appreciated. |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2016 at 9:17am
|
No idea of price......but........ what are they worth to you?? THAT is the question! Has he stated a price to you? Was me, I'd snap up the cultivator and tractor in a heart beat!! You've now got the cultivators (which ARE hard to find) and a parts tractor!! Good luck!!!! If you don't want the tractor and cultivator, just let me know!! I'll take em! ------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: Bensjamming
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2016 at 10:38am
| I'm pretty sure I will end up taking the cultivators and the single bottom plow setup but as far as thee tractors I don't have room or really need a complete parts machine laying around at this time. If your seriously interested I can talk to him about it and see if he would sell it if you would like. |
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2016 at 11:31am
|
I would sell the 1 bottom plow that I have for $150 and the cultivators for $50. If you can get them cheaper, that would be a great deal. A extra parts tractor would be handy to have around just in case, but if you don't have room, maybe just take a couple key parts and put them on a shelf. If you or Ted decide that you don't want any of the tractors, I would be interested.
------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2016 at 6:52pm
|
Ben, ask him what he wants for the C tractors and we'll take it from there. Who knows....depends on price. It's a long way for me to go and if I don't want them, Alex will for sure. Thanks, Ted ------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: Bensjamming
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2016 at 5:24pm
Do you have any pictures of the cultivators you have? And also where about are you located at in WI? I'm from Peshtigo. Also what would you consider as key parts that are good to have on hand? |
Posted By: Bensjamming
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2016 at 9:07pm
|
Received an email back from saying he wants $100 for the one bottom plow with all parts and rock shaft, $75 for the cultivator setup on that other C IF I take it off myself, and wants $20 a peice for the belt pulley and a battery box I decent shape but missing the cover Does that seem like fair prices for all this stuff? It's definitely rusty from sitting years in the grass but a little sand blasting and some paint and I thing it would be good to go. Also he mention I could have the entire other C for $600 for parts which looks complete but would need all new rubber and some TLC for sure. |
Posted By: john2189
Date Posted: 05 Dec 2016 at 10:14pm
|
What are the triangle fins on the rockshaft for? Plus I have two of those lifting levers that I never knew what they were. no rockshaft tho John ------------- '41 Allis B '45 Allis B '49 Farmall Cub '72 IH Cub |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 7:42pm
|
You gonna take that other C Ben? If not, can you take some pics of it? I'd be really interested for a parts tractor.
------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: Bensjamming
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 8:17pm
No I'm not gonna grab the entire tractor. I only want a couple things and he has a couple Cs there so should be able to get what I need and still leave that one untouched minus the cultivator setup. I will get some pics of it when I go out there or will see if he can send a few when he gets a chance. Might be a few weeks before I can get back out there but will get some either way for ya. Do his prices seem pretty fair with what stuff usually sells for? I'm kinda getting excited to make the cultivators into a winter project of blasting and repainting them so they look nice and are all free moving where they should be. |
Posted By: Bensjamming
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 8:19pm
Not sure of their exact use but was told that they were part of the plow package that was on there originally. I have seen quite a few others with them same style little fenders on the rock shaft back there. Still trying to figure all that out myself. |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 7:41am
|
I'd say his prices are fair. It really all depends on how rusted things are. You can put in a lot of time with a torch and wax getting things freed up...... Again, I say how bad do YOU want it? That is where the price is fair.
------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 9:29am
Actually I sold the cultivators the other day, but I still have the plow with all the brackets. I am 45min away near Gillett, WI. I would say his prices are not out of line, just depends how much work it is to remove everything. Some key parts to have might be extra starter, radiator, generator, magneto. ------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |