corn head grease
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=128397
Printed Date: 11 Aug 2025 at 9:47am
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Topic: corn head grease
Posted By: Dmpaul89
Subject: corn head grease
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2016 at 10:33am
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I never gave much thought on different types of grease till I read a post on another forum about all the different types, and how the wrong type can not be good. I've just been using general purpose lith-o-flex. $.99 a tube Been working on my corn head last few days and thinking wow what a miserable task to work on these things. I don't want to do it again. What's the best grease for a corn head? And what should i use for the rest of the combine. Is there a grease that doesn't stink like gear oil? |
Replies:
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2016 at 11:02am
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Corn hear grease should always go in the corn head gearboxes. It's thinner than standard grease. I use hi-temp grease in everything now. It's more expensive, but it's good for wheel bearings and other hi-temp areas. I wouldn't use regular grease in things like combine cylinders or roters. |
Posted By: 19856020
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2016 at 3:29pm
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I simplified and use mystic high temp on everything,I buy it at wallmart ------------- 716 917 918 1920 d17 6080 |
Posted By: zulawski87
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2016 at 8:20pm
| I use his temp grease for everything also. Service pro is the brand. |
Posted By: victoryallis
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2016 at 8:57pm
Corn head grease is a different viscosity I would use actual cornhead grease. On my Gleaner I use CNH grease the Agco dealer I deal with sells New Holland also so that's how I got started with CNH grease. Make sure your seals are good I had a row unit with a bad seal I lost 1.5 tubes a day from one unit for a entire season. I probably lost $100 of grease from $10 in seals not to mention the time spent adding grease. But dropping a row unit and changing seals is not a quick job. ------------- 8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760 |
Dmpaul89 wrote:Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2016 at 10:15pm
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corn head grease , Agco brand, is petroleum based. It is to be used in hugger corn head gearboxes. Regular grease can possibly destroy a gearbox. There is also a synthetic EP0 - it will NOT mix with corn head grease. It will 'clabber ' and fail to lubricate the gears and brgs. We had a customer who added a different brand of synthetic grease and the seals leaked. We replaced all under warranty . They failed again. Customer was so upset he traded combines. We got the head on a trade and pulled down a gearbox - it was like expanding foam - we cleaned the mixture out, installed new seals and it has performed flawlessly for over 15 years. Moral, use the correct grease for the correct application...
------------- When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money.. |
Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2016 at 9:35am
| Second the Mystic from Wally World. If not vented, do not overfill with any type grease (if originally called out oil) as it is easy to push out a seal when it gets hot. I have had good luck with a mix of 90wt. and grease, just enough grease to allow viscosity to move enough at check port so I do not overfill on older boxes where there has been a small leak noted. |
Posted By: BigBadAllis
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2016 at 10:01am
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As stated above there's many differences in greases. There's basestock viscosity that is not always easy to obtain, NLGI which is the thickness (stiff/fluid like) of the body of the grease itself and then the thickner type. Some thickener types when mixed, will cause fall out or drop out. The combination of incompatible grease thickeners will cause liquification and the grease will drop fall out. The different viscosity is a grease (e.g 220, 320, 1200) relates to the "bleed" rate of the actual lubricating oils in the grease thickener. A lightler ISO viscosity "220" will release the lubricating oils faster than a "1200". Simply put the faster the moving part the faster you need the lubricating oils to bleed out of the thickener. Slow speed high load assets don't need the oils to bleed as quickly. A lot of gearbox applications will call for an NLGI "0" or "00" which is a liquified grease or a heavy gear oil with EP properties. For hard to reach grease zerks and critical components, I would clean our all old grease and use a quality grease with Moly. Moly is a solid sacrificial lubricant that stays in place longer and adds more protection to moving parts. Grease is not just grease like oil is not just oil. There's a lot of differences that depend on service times and or lack of regular servicing. Just because a lubricant works well for one person or piece of equipment doesn't mean that you will get the same results if your maintenance or preventative maintenance program is different. My nickels worth Jason |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2016 at 10:47am
| I'm guilty of referring to the Hugger grease as corn head grease. I should be calling it corn head GEARBOX grease, not corn head grease. |
Posted By: Dmpaul89
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2016 at 11:54am
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Ah I see. So since my black head has no gear boxes, what should be the best grease then? And should the open gears be lubricated? I was under the impression that "corn head grease" applied to all heads not just ones with gear boxes. Makes sense now.. Sounds like mystic or moly? |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2016 at 12:46pm
| Open bevel gears require nothing for lube. If you want to, I guess you can, but they were never intended to be regularly lubricated. |
Posted By: Leon n/c AR.
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2016 at 2:33pm
| Grease or oil on open gears attract dirt, or even dust and acts like sandpaper on gears. |
Posted By: GM Guy
Date Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 2:38am
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leave the gears dry, down in the dust and dirt they need to stay dry. Consider adding grease banks to the header, it will be a little easier to grease. If you think the black frame is bad, see an orange frame. :) ------------- Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine. If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help. |
Posted By: JD Dan
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2016 at 5:34am
| DM, do you have any grease sales reps nearby that would go over base types, your intended uses, etc? Imo its worth the time to research what belongs in your application, find the best that's readily available- so you don't have to change and run into compatibility problems later- keep some on hand for the same reason, then get on to projects that are actually fun! Hope that made sense. If nobody around to walk ya thru that process, don't hesitate to pm me |
Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2016 at 6:26am
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Check here: http://thelubricantstore.com/grease-compatibility-chart" rel="nofollow - Grease compatibility chart The bottom line is that some greases cannot be mixed with others. The problems of greases bubbling and expanding may have been caused by mixing incompatible greases. The best thing to do is decide which grease you intend to use, purge and rinse the gearbox completely and replace it with your desired grease. Stick with that brand and type of grease. |
Posted By: wekracer
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2016 at 8:41am
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I'm am by no means educated on different greases but we have always used a higher quality grease. We buy all our hydraulic and motor oil from the oil company that delivers our fuel. We get our grease from them as well. It's a red grease with moly. Connoco brand I believe. You can feel the difference between it and the cheap black grease. You can wipe them off your finger with a rag and you can still feel the red. As far as gear boxes go. We have been guilty of using chain saw bar oil in leaking gear boxes. It definately lasts longer. That's only on an old auger that gets used once every 2-3 years though. |
Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2016 at 9:14am
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After doing some research on Schaeffer Oil products, seems they have grease(s) that consistently rated high on discussion boards at least. I have used Royal Purple oils selectively for years but have not used Schaeffer products. Can anybody shed some light on their use of Schaeffer products? Reportedly been around since late 1830's, making lubricants form animal fats before switching to petroleum base around the time of the Civil War. Web site also list a number of ag products as well. |
Posted By: JD Dan
Date Posted: 19 Oct 2016 at 9:51am
| Tim- I have used their products. Only reason I quit is I got one box of grease that bled. Prior to that I had pretty good results. That said, if you are near fort worth..... You are in the best possible spot to find a few different manufacturers of top notch lubricants right in your backyard |
Posted By: BigBadAllis
Date Posted: 20 Oct 2016 at 12:56pm
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Schaeffer's grease is a fairly decent grease. They also have different greases so make sure you get the correct grease for the application and the thickeners are compatible. The only challenge some have with Schaeffer's is availability. You should be able to locally source quality national branded greases from Exxon Mobil, Chevron, Conoco (Phillips), Shell etc. They all make different levels of greases and some for specific applications. Few words of of advise: Don't get hung up on color. Color is just color. Not all certain colored grease is equal to the other colored grease. Look for NLGI #, Viscosity, Thickener Type and needed additives such as Moly, Graphite etc. Jason |
Posted By: JD Dan
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2016 at 4:46am
| Well said bigbadallis. Tim, any success yet? |
Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2016 at 8:45am
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Question was to bring out what anyone with experience using Schaeffer's products thought in general about anything in the line. I know where to find most anything a fella could want in the metro area. They have been around forever but one of those companies that do not advertise like the majors and reportedly, sales force works entirely on commission. Anybody have good or bad experience on their fluids, feel free to add any comments. Thanks Tim |
Posted By: JD Dan
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2016 at 10:04am
| Tim, that's true. Pretty sure that's the line I handle |