D17 fouling plugs
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=118612
Printed Date: 31 Aug 2025 at 12:09am
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Topic: D17 fouling plugs
Posted By: AaronSEIA
Subject: D17 fouling plugs
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2016 at 8:10am
My D17 got running like pure crap. Thought it was carb but pulled the plugs. 2 and 4 were fouled and soaking wet. Hit them all with the wire wheel and gapped them at .025 (just guessed, might not be correct). Runs a lot better now. They are Autolite plugs. Any thoughts on why it'd foul 2 and 4? Engine runs strong and doesn't burn oil that I can tell. Do I need a cap/rotor/wires/plug tuneup?
AaronSEIA
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Replies:
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2016 at 8:53am
Plug gap should be .030 If it fouls again, get the next hotter plug and see how that goes. It won't hurt a thing to run a half can of Sea Foam in the gas and the other half in the oil and make the tractor WORK at something for several hours. A good tune up never hurt a thing but from what I have heard, a hot coil and Pextronic ignition might be a BIG help to keep her running good for a long time. I have very little confidence in points and condensers available today. I had trouble keeping an 8N Ford going 2 years ago and went thru 3 condensers before I got one to last for more than an hour.
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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: Rick
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2016 at 8:57am
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They just don't make things like they used to! We've all heard that saying before, huh? LOL! Rick
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Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2016 at 9:42am
Wet with oil or wet with gasoline? Wet with oil would hint at rings or worn intake valve guide or messed up valve stem seal. Wet with gasoline would hint at running rich, carburetor needs to be tuned a little leaner, but could hint at a gap in the secondary circuit to those two plugs that could be a wire with a gap in it, missing a good end, the electrodes in the cap eroded, the rotor eroded short, the distributor shaft bushing worn and increasing the gap on those two plugs between the rotor and the cap. Or those plugs just were colder operating than needed to keep clean.
Or could be the other two plugs have the gap getting a higher voltage to the plug as used in oil burning plug adapters or the junk plugs that Champion makes for old engines.
Gerald J.
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Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2016 at 10:50am
When is the last time you tuned it up? Maybe that's all it needs. Like Gerald said, were the plugs fouled with gasoline or oil? If oil, you're loosing oil control inside the engine. That could be loose valve guides, excess blow by, high windage inside the crankcase, worn or broken oil ring. Fuel would be Carburetor related. Floats, to fat a mix, old fuel, or contaminated fuel in the tank. Plugs will tell a lot. In most cases, installing a new set of plugs is much better than cleaning up old ones (especially after they been fouled) to see how the engine runs and reacts. You might want to install an electronic ignition in the Distributor and never have to worry bout' tuning it up anymore other than a set of plugs every few years depending on how much you use the Tractor....
Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Posted By: AaronSEIA
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2016 at 12:29pm
Plugs were wet with gas. Lot of carbon buildup on the electrode. I plan on keeping an eye on my oil level and trying to do more than the short 10-15 minute low engine speed runs that I have been doing. Not sure when it was tunes up last, I've only had her for 9 months. Will probably do a tune-up this spring along with some other work it needs done.
AaronSEIA
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Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2016 at 1:46pm
Short run times don't allow the engine to get up to normal operating range. In turn, plug fouling can become a problem because the engine isn't put to work for long periods of time. The longer the run time or "work time" the better off it is for the engine, and to get a better idea of how the plugs and Ignition system is working. Give the ole' girl a fresh tuneup and then put her to work. Best way to check it out. Have fun!
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Posted By: Orange Tractors
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2016 at 1:52pm
I've got a WD with a 12V conversion and distributor that burns oil and fouled plugs very quickly. I put maybe ten to twenty hours per year on it so it doesn't make sense to overhaul it.
I went through several sets of Autolite, Champion and AC Delco plugs. Didn't matter they fouled out in short order.
One day I was in the local O'Reilly's getting plugs, and the only ones they had that cross referenced were a set of NGK's. They have been in the tractor for about six years now, still going strong.
I don't remember the number, but the replacement set has been on the dash of the farm truck for about four or five years, still in the sun faded box.
Robert
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Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2016 at 9:58pm
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Check air cleaner hose at bottom of carb. for a hole. They will rot out there first, then suck dirt, which wears the rings. MACK
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Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2016 at 8:15pm
You might consider a new thermostat in the engine and even a weatherfront on the radiator. Getting the engine fully warmed up makes a big difference in plug fouling. Electronic ign and wider plug gaps help too.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2016 at 9:41pm
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2nd the Seafoam in the gas (one entire can for 1/2 to full tank) and run her hard for a good 30-60 minutes to clean her up. You will hear and feel the difference in minutes . . . .
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