Ford 3400 Loader
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=113714
Printed Date: 06 May 2025 at 2:27pm
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Topic: Ford 3400 Loader
Posted By: Scott(SC)
Subject: Ford 3400 Loader
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2015 at 8:56pm
| I recently bought a Ford 3400 and need to rebuild the loader valve. I've never done this before. Advice welcome. Thanks. |
Replies:
Posted By: JoeM(GA)
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2015 at 9:53pm
|
Scott, first off you need to look on the loader frame for the Ford Component tag, the loader will have a number, 19-XXX, we can turn this into a loader model. Most likely it is a Model 730 loader, but lets be sure- ------------- Allis Express North Georgia 41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's, Ford 345C TLB |
Posted By: Scott(SC)
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2015 at 9:04am
| Joe, I got two numbers off the loader this morning. One on the left side bottom of the reservoir/frame is Ford B 290349. The 9 could possibly be an 8. On the right side was the numbers 7700720 H4 UT. |
Posted By: Dozer
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2015 at 10:11am
|
The first choice is a seal kit from the manufacturer. Many times such kits are not available. Hydraulic valves and cylinders use standard components that can be identified by hydraulic cylinder repair stations if there is one near you. I am fortunate to have Sealing Devices near by. Places like this can identify seals and/or provide catalogs. Good Luck |
Posted By: JoeM(GA)
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2015 at 3:56pm
|
Scott, were those numbers cast into something or were they on a tag? There should be a tag on the loader frame or arms that looks much like this one on my 345, yours would have FORD in script. http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Joecdeere/media/temp%20folder/IMG_1607_zpskee2a8bh.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  ------------- Allis Express North Georgia 41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's, Ford 345C TLB |
Posted By: Scott(SC)
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2015 at 7:16am
| I do have a good hydraulic repair place available just up the road. I would like to be able to dissemble the valve without taking it off and go match the parts. Is that possible? I don't know how to take it apart. The numbers are cast into the loader frame. I did not find a data plate. I have a 3500 parts tractor and the loader on it is heavier duty, if that helps. I don't mind paying for it to be repaired, but I get more satisfaction from doing repairs myself. |
Posted By: JoeM(GA)
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2015 at 9:34am
|
Scott, most of the older one piece valves Ford used back them were pretty simple, but as you can see below they didn't offer a lot of parts for them. If it's just leaking, I'm sure you can pull the spools and match up new ones. I'd caution you on being careful removing them. The tolerances are tight between the spool and the body, nicking or scaring either piece will ruin the valve. http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Joecdeere/media/tech%20pic/zzzzzzzzzzz0001_zpskbx1ikos.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Joecdeere/media/tech%20pic/zzzzzzzzzzz0002_zps81zqhdz9.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  ------------- Allis Express North Georgia 41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's, Ford 345C TLB |
Posted By: Scott(SC)
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2015 at 8:14am
| I think I might have just broke my own heart. I wanted to finish turning the garden with the 3400 & Athens tiller before I started on the loader valve. I think I put her in too high of a gear and lugged a bearing out. She started making a lot of noise and has a bad vibration. The engine had been recently rebuilt. The guy I bought it from said she had less than a hundred hours. I looked to see about dropping the oil pan, but it the front bolster bolts to the pan. Do I have to remove it before I pull the oil pan? |
Posted By: dadsdozerhd5b
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2015 at 8:51am
|
an engine bearing would not make a lot of vibration. could it be the clutch or pressure plate came apart or loose since it was apart recently? does it still run? what kind of noise did it make? could be a wrist pin I suppose but lugging it too hard seems to me something broke or came apart. look in the clutch inspection plate before pulling the pan. good luck ------------- HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE. |
Posted By: Scott(SC)
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2015 at 10:06am
| Thanks. I'll try that first. It does still run. I took her right to the shed. |
Posted By: Scott(SC)
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2015 at 8:59am
| Well, I got to thinking about the injector pump. Sometime the engine will slowly cut off like it's running out of fuel and after a little cranking it will start back up. I wondered if something in the pump might be causing the knock, like maybe too rich or too lean. I cranked her up this morning and loosened the injector lines on the pump one at a time. #1 made little difference if any in the running of the tractor and only fuel came out. #2 & #3 each killed the engine, so they were putting out good. There is definitely a loud knock in the engine and from the power loss I would say on #1 cylinder. My daddy suggested pulling the valve cover first and seeing if any valves had come loose. I am open to suggestions. as I see it, I'll have to remover the loader and front axle assembly to pull the oil pan. |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2015 at 5:19pm
| Trade #1 injector for # 2, and see what the results are... |
Posted By: Scott(SC)
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2015 at 6:40pm
| I've never done that. What is there to taking them out? |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2015 at 7:38pm
| The correct wrenches for the lines is the main thing, don't booger up the fittings with an adjustable wrench. Do you know how to bleed a diesel? |
Posted By: Scott(SC)
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2015 at 4:51am
| I have bled a couple. I assume to turn it over while loosening the line at one injector at a time? |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2015 at 6:24pm
| Yep, more or less, that's it... |