Farm Equipment - 7010 Air Conditioner

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7010 Air Conditioner

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=107926
Printed Date: 03 May 2025 at 12:08am
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Topic: 7010 Air Conditioner

Posted By: Mark(MO)
Subject: 7010 Air Conditioner
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2015 at 10:22am

Guys,

I would like to fix my AC on the 7010. It hasn't worked for years. I tried to put some 134a in it and it wouldn't hold any. I'm guessing some pretty big leaks. I was thinking about just replacing the entire AC system rather than try to track down a lot of little leaks. Is there a place that sells a kit with all the parts I would need...compressor, hoses, drier, fittings, condenser? Is this the wrong approach? I want it to work like new without worrying about it during the summer months. I was thinking I could do the work and then have a pro charge the system for me when I am done. Tell me if this is too big a job or the wrong decision/ Thanks in advance for your help!

BTW....just bought an 8010 this spring and I love it!!! Will try to get some pictures posted later.

Replies:

Posted By: rw
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2015 at 5:08pm

Yep that is the way to go. A whole new system will really make it work.rw

Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2015 at 9:46pm

You are going to be replacing a lot of parts that don't need replacing that way. Flushing money down the toilet. Chances are there is only one leak in the system. I am willing to bet it is in the evaporator - my 6080 leaks there. Have a pressure test done on it and determine where the leak is. Fix the leak and convert the system to R134a and you are set. An HVAC technician could do that for you.

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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080

Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2015 at 11:16pm

i'm replacing all the hoses , compressor, everything on my 7010, most of the hoses are brittle. I got all the hoses from A&I, for $500. the new compressor came off my Cadilac as it was new just before I quit driving the car. (same compressor) replacing the dryer too. it worked for 34 years...just started blowing hoses! with everything new it's gonna cost me bouts $650.00. and well worth it! it should be done this week...just in time for tree pulling!

Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2015 at 11:17pm

oh...the part numbers for the hoses through A&I are the same numbers as AGCO's. i'll look and see if I still have all the numbers

Posted By: aras
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2015 at 6:34am

ap air also sells everything you will need too

Posted By: Dave H
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2015 at 6:43am

If you don';tr want to convert to 134a, There is/was a product called freeze 12 that has worked for me.

Posted By: ivan
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2015 at 7:31am

We stock everything for your allis tractors and gleaner combines

Posted By: JET8070
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2015 at 7:53am

I've worked on a lot of 8000 series A/C units and quite a few 7000 series units. Some that I got working hadn't worked in over a decade. I will say that I never had to replace the whole system. Not even close. Three most common leaks on these tractors: 1 compressor shaft seal or other compressor seals.2 high pressure hose out of compressor to condenser.3 leaking condenser. Everything else leak wise is a freak occurance. When inspecting lines, leaks sometimes occur where the lines have been coated in hydraulic or engine oil like where the lines start under the cab near the fire wall. In a few odd instances something has occurred that held moisture against steel line and rusted it out. The expansion valve is a good thing to replace if it has been open for a while same with the drier. The high pressure line on 7000 series is prone to be rubbed through on the edge of the hood. The crimp on the high pressure line just out of the compressor is prone to failure. The condensers tend to rot and/or rub through where the bolts with the offset washers go. 7000 series compressors are easier to test due to the service fitting on back of the compressor. Only tractor I ever wanted to replace all the hoses on was a 7000 series with severe contamination from being wide open for several years and it wouldn't flush. Never replaced an evaporator but I had to get some repaired. I know a/c repair seems foreign to many but would you change injection pump,injectors and injection lines because the water in the bottom of your fuel filter rotted out the case from never being changed.

Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2015 at 9:44am

JET8070 wrote:

I've worked on a lot of 8000 series A/C units and quite a few 7000 series units. Some that I got working hadn't worked in over a decade. I will say that I never had to replace the whole system. Not even close. Three most common leaks on these tractors: 1 compressor shaft seal or other compressor seals.2 high pressure hose out of compressor to condenser.3 leaking condenser. Everything else leak wise is a freak occurance. When inspecting lines, leaks sometimes occur where the lines have been coated in hydraulic or engine oil like where the lines start under the cab near the fire wall. In a few odd instances something has occurred that held moisture against steel line and rusted it out. The expansion valve is a good thing to replace if it has been open for a while same with the drier. The high pressure line on 7000 series is prone to be rubbed through on the edge of the hood. The crimp on the high pressure line just out of the compressor is prone to failure. The condensers tend to rot and/or rub through where the bolts with the offset washers go. 7000 series compressors are easier to test due to the service fitting on back of the compressor. Only tractor I ever wanted to replace all the hoses on was a 7000 series with severe contamination from being wide open for several years and it wouldn't flush. Never replaced an evaporator but I had to get some repaired. I know a/c repair seems foreign to many but would you change injection pump,injectors and injection lines because the water in the bottom of your fuel filter rotted out the case from never being changed.

Well said!

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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080

Posted By: Mark(MO)
Date Posted: 24 Jun 2015 at 7:54am

I do appreciate all of the advice. Think I'll get a professional to find the leak and see how bad it is. I also need to replace the A/C switch in the cab. Last time it was replaced they put a one speed in instead of a 3 speed switch. I will use my 7010 a lot more if the A/C is working!!

Thanks again! Clap

Posted By: kurtleimkuehler
Date Posted: 23 May 2018 at 2:47pm

7000 series compressors are easier to test due to the service fitting on back of the compressor.

I cant tell what this is, i am trying to figure out where the leak is in my 7010 suspect the compresser. How do u test the compresser with this fitting?

Posted By: fourthgeneration
Date Posted: 24 May 2018 at 4:58pm

I just did the same thing on our 7020. AP air has everything. I would get their Sanden style compressor kit. The binary switch in the kit eliminates the thermal circuit. I replaced the entire system so that I there was no risk of debris being left behind. The r134a adjusted charge is 3.2- 3.45 lbs for the 7020. I got the insulation for the evaporator outlet at Napa. I vaccumed it down over night. Then pressure checked at 200lbs with nitrogen then vaccumed it down and charged it. I also installed a new heater blend valve in the cab and ball valves on the engine to shut off the coolant in the summer.