1952 WD losing power
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=107511
Printed Date: 11 Sep 2025 at 10:09am Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 1952 WD losing power
Posted By: Blackjack Dale
Subject: 1952 WD losing power
Date Posted: 12 Jun 2015 at 3:25pm
Tractor starts normally, but after a minute or so, it will stall when engaging the transmission. Acts kinda like its over heating but temp gage show normal, no leaks. New distributor assy a year ago, air cleaner / oil bath always clean, I can't find a reason!
There is one item on the block I can't identify.. perhaps a timing regulator? Little arm that connects on one side of the block to the secondary choke at top of carb, pushes a rod in front of the block, which pulls an arm into the distributor assy on other side of the block. I found that turning the screw in a bit revved the motor up a bit, but ultimately was no help when pulling into gear.
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Replies:
Posted By: bradley6874
Date Posted: 12 Jun 2015 at 4:16pm
Ok how long will it run if you dont put it in gear? Next start it in gear as soon as it starts drive away next replace the thermostat if its stuck tight and your temp gauge is in the top of tbe rad you will never show hot
------------- You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 12 Jun 2015 at 4:46pm
Blackjack Dale wrote:
Tractor starts normally, but after a minute or so, it will stall when engaging the transmission.
There is one item on the block I can't identify.. perhaps a timing regulator? Little arm that connects on one side of the block to the secondary choke at top of carb, pushes a rod in front of the block, which pulls an arm into the distributor assy on other side of the block. I found that turning the screw in a bit revved the motor up a bit, but ultimately was no help when pulling into gear. |
If it won't move at all when letting the clutch out, will it shift to neutral and run when you let the clutch ouy? It could be stuck in 2 gears when you shift it, but normally will still be in one gear when the lever is in neutral position.
The arm on the side of the carb is the throttle(not a secondary choke) and is connected thru linkage to the front and across to the governor, which is inside the housing where the mag or distributor bolts on. If you run the tractor at half throttle and attempt to slow it down or speed it up by grabbing the throttle shaft on the carb, you should feel the governor resist your attempts at changing the speed. If that doesn't happen, your governor may not be working and that would let it die when you let the clutch out. That screw is the idle adjusting screw for setting low idle after carb is properly adjusted.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 12 Jun 2015 at 4:46pm
Sounds like it could be the advance in the distributor is sticking. You can check this by removing the distributor cap and twisting the rotor back and fourth. It should turn some. It should not be solid. Fuel restriction can also cause this type of problem. You could take the plug out of the bottom of the carburetor and see if you have an even flow for a couple minutes after the bowel is drained. Some things to check to eliminate anyway.
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Posted By: Blackjack Dale
Date Posted: 13 Jun 2015 at 5:41pm
Thanks for the tip. I did remove the plug, and even though it seemed to drain steadily, I thought what the heck, while I'm here I put a couple ounces of STP in the tank and let a gallon flow thru. Didn't fix my problem, but I feel better knowing one more thing its NOT.. another wrote me to check the thermostat, and sure enough, it was stuck closed. Tractor Supply says they'll have my replacement in a week.
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Posted By: Blackjack Dale
Date Posted: 13 Jun 2015 at 5:42pm
thanks for the tips! Ir wasn't stuck in gear, but, sure enough, the thermostat was stuck closed. Tractor Supply says they'll have my replacement in a week.
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Posted By: Blackjack Dale
Date Posted: 13 Jun 2015 at 5:45pm
Thanks for the tip! The governor appears to be working, it resists my pressure when the engine is running, the rotor does allow a bit of movement in both directions, so hopefully that new thermostat will fix my trouble. Will post back next week after it arrives. Thanks to all for your responses.
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Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 13 Jun 2015 at 6:06pm
Not trying to be disrespectful, but the thermostat is not going to fix your power issue. It does sound like it needs to be fixed, but a perfectly tuned carb, and distributor, will pull hard right up until the tractor locks up from overheating, if the thermostat is stuck. Something else is still wrong with the fuel, or ignition. Have you put plugs and wires on it in a while, or any other ignition components? Very likely could be carb/fuel, but something tells me this is classic plugs and wires, maybe a condenser.
------------- Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7
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Posted By: Blackjack Dale
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2015 at 4:56am
I rebuilt the whole distributor assy a year ago, new plugs and wires at that time too. Will pull them out and take a look, will plan to pick up a new wire set when I get that thermostat. Thanks for your insight!
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Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 14 Jun 2015 at 8:22am
Blackjack Dale wrote:
Tractor starts normally, but after a minute or so, it will stall when engaging the transmission. |
Blackjack Dale wrote:
There is one item on the block I can't identify.. Little arm that connects on one side of the block to the secondary choke at top of carb, pushes a rod in front of the block, which pulls an arm into the distributor assy on other side of the block. I found that turning the screw in a bit revved the motor up a bit, but ultimately was no help when pulling into gear. |
I'll second OB's note... there is NOT enough time between starting the engine and putting it into gear that would be a sign of overheat... it simply cannot heat up that fast.
I'd venture possibilities, but this thing on the block you're talking about- that's unfamiliar to me. Take a photo of it, and post it here- I think we need to see that before we go any farther.
------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Posted By: jiminnd
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2015 at 10:53am
Like said, what you refer to as secondary choke sounds like your throttle linkage and governor, go the other way, with tractor off, stand on the other side and watch the linkage as you advance the throttle and see how everything moves and I think you will understand this better.
------------- 1945 C, 1949 WF and WD, 1981 185, 1982 8030, unknown D14(nonrunner)
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Posted By: VFDfireman
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2015 at 3:11pm
When's the last time the air cleaner was cleaned?
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Posted By: MrHDC
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2015 at 9:03pm
Just remember there are TWO rolls of the wire mesh filter up in that air cleaner. It's pretty easy to pull one out and not notice the other one up there. It will make a tremendous difference in power if it's plugged. Figured that out about '71.
Hervey
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Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 18 Jun 2015 at 9:13pm
It would smoke a lot if the air cleaner was plugged. I smell an ignition coil.
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