600 allis forklift
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=102374
Printed Date: 19 Jul 2025 at 7:32pm
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Topic: 600 allis forklift
Posted By: Bob (IN)
Subject: 600 allis forklift
Date Posted: 23 Feb 2015 at 9:49pm
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does anybody know what tractor engine they put in this forklift also is it normal for hyd pump to pull engine down when relishing the clutch my sure seams to really load the engine ------------- great-grandpa's wc with picker, 20/35, speed patrol, uc, m crawler, 620, 653 dozer d21 d17 d19 |
Replies:
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2015 at 5:33am
| A 600 should be a series 2 D-15 motor. As for the clutch drawing down the motor, have you considered that the TO bearing is bad, or dragging? |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2015 at 7:06am
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I believe your I600 has a fixed-displacement gear-type hydraulic pump. that means, regardless of what speed it's turning, one rotation of the pump yields the same volume of fluid flow. A fixed-displacement pump MUST have some place to push fluid, and that fluid MUST be able to return to the tank. The control valves on a fixed-displacement engine-driven pump are referred to as 'open center' design, so that when they're not in a position of 'work', that all fluid coming in from the pump, is redirected back to the tank. If you have a pressure line that is somehow restricted... or one or more of the valves has a problem, that will cause the pump to experience a substantial amount of drag with no apparent load. Having cold, thick, or contaminated fluid will do the same. If you're starting it outside, on a cold day, then best let it start and assume a moderate idle for a while before cycling the valves, let it circulate fluid for a good long time to warm up what's between the pump and the tank. Once warmed, operating the mast lift and tilt valves back a few times will cause it to grunt for a little while, until the cold fluid in those circulates is changed out for warmer fluid. Having aerated fluid (air bubbles) will make it work extremely hard (because it's spending lots of energy compressing air bubbles, rather than pushing fluid), and having a suction hose with a collapsed interior will also make it work hard, but I'd make those issues a secondary guess. You will also find that there are many flavors of hydraulic fluid. My local farm store carries everything from ISO 15 to ISO 68... thin fluids flow easily, and transmit power well, provide lower drag, but can slip through worn seals easily. Many guys will deal with a leaky system by using a heavier oil... this results in higher flow restriction, more static load, and slower warmup time. Someone may have gone to heavier fluid at one time, if so, and you drain it and replace with thinner fluid, you may find a few leaks you didn't have before.  ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
Posted By: Bob (IN)
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2015 at 1:06pm
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thanks dave did replace all suction hoses and cleaned strainer replaced hyd oil with new 10 wt hydrolic oil ------------- great-grandpa's wc with picker, 20/35, speed patrol, uc, m crawler, 620, 653 dozer d21 d17 d19 |