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steve(ill) 
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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 Posted: 27 Apr 2024 at 9:59pm |
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I would say there is a 99.9% chance that the regulator is no good.. I have seen regulators that are 10 x better than that physically, that did not work properly..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Les Kerf
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Location: Idaho
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Posted: 27 Apr 2024 at 9:52pm |
 ForgivenCreation wrote:
Here is the original that was on there.
In the picture battery/ammeter would be far right, center was the one I don't know that went below the field post and the far left was the one on the rear of the generator.
The field post went to ground... |
This is, of course, not the original equipment for a WD, so we are at best only able to guess as to just what it is that you have here.
IF your regulator is functional (and I doubt that it is) and IF the field was actually connected to ground then I have no idea what the generator configuration is. Or did you mean that the field post on the generator was connected to ground? Either way it makes no sense.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 27 Apr 2024 at 9:52pm |
If you ground the "F" wire, the generator will go to FULL CHARGE... You should have 3 terminals and need to see how they are marked...
I dont know if you are 12v, or 6 v... - or + ground.....
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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ForgivenCreation
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Posted: 27 Apr 2024 at 8:14pm |
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Does the field go to ground like they had it before?
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ForgivenCreation
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Posted: 27 Apr 2024 at 7:56pm |
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ForgivenCreation
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Posted: 27 Apr 2024 at 7:40pm |
Ok since the ford one will not work. It's of my 77 f250. The one terminal that is rusted off went to the down and I would assume strapped to the part with the flathead. That is the only one as seem on the bottom that is isolated like that. Can I just run a wire out from the current rusted off connector to battery? I don't see why not.  
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 27 Apr 2024 at 7:29pm |
That is for an Alternator with an External Voltage regulator... Will not work... You have to be before 1965 probabaly to get a Generator..
Are you going with 6 volts or 12 volts ?? Generator on a 1950 tractor is only about 8 amps.. You need a SPECIFIC regulator of LOW AMP generators... Look for one that is RATED at 9 amps..
Internet---- Ford began using alternators in their trucks in 1965, with the exception of trucks from 1964 and earlier, which still used generators. The C3SZ10316A alternator regulator was used from 1963 to 1973, and was replaced by the D4TZ10316A in 1974. Alternators became standard equipment on all Fords and Mercurys in August 1964, including Mustangs
Edited by steve(ill) - 27 Apr 2024 at 7:34pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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ForgivenCreation
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Posted: 27 Apr 2024 at 7:11pm |
Here is the original that was on there. In the picture battery/ammeter would be far right, center was the one I don't know that went below the field post and the far left was the one on the rear of the generator. The field post went to ground. 
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 27 Apr 2024 at 7:06pm |
Hmmm... I don't think that is a good plan; according to my Ford manual it looks like the Ford regulator sources the Field current whereas the Allis-Chalmers regulators sink the field current.
In other words, your generator is expecting the regulator to provide the ground for the field, and the Ford regulator is expecting the generator/alternator to provide the ground.
Your generator is set up as an "A" circuit and the Ford is a "B" circuit.
Unless I am reading the schematic wrong, which is always a possibility 
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ForgivenCreation
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Posted: 27 Apr 2024 at 6:50pm |
How do wire this up? The only one labeled is F for I would assume Field. The one below I have no clue and the one on the back goes to the brushes inside I believe.   
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