OT How to kill a mulberry tree
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=56311
Printed Date: 25 Apr 2024 at 7:41am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: OT How to kill a mulberry tree
Posted By: DennisA (IL)
Subject: OT How to kill a mulberry tree
Date Posted: 03 Sep 2012 at 9:58pm
|
How to kill a mulberry tree, we have hundreds to clean out. We have been cutting them down for the last 2 weeks and I see that there sending up new sprouts. ------------- Thanks & God Bless Dennis |
Replies:
Posted By: Iowa Farmer
Date Posted: 03 Sep 2012 at 10:00pm
| Dow makes a product in a squirt bottle called Tordon. It is a ready to use formulation and requires no mixing. Just treat this on the stump and tillers after cutting. |
Posted By: dustinmo
Date Posted: 03 Sep 2012 at 10:01pm
| I dont think you can have been cutting down a couple for years and they just wont die, Try pouring salt on the stump thats right regular table salt and dont be stingy as it is really cheap |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 03 Sep 2012 at 10:13pm
|
4 pound glyphosate directly on the freshly cut stump, not the next day. Not diluted. Tordon is another as is Crossbow. All three work best when applied while the stump is bleeding. Gerald J. |
Posted By: omahagreg
Date Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 6:26am
|
I was told by a tree company, drill multiple 1/4" holes as deep as possible, in the stump. As stated already, apply table salt. Stump will rot away within a year! ------------- Greg Kroeker 1950 WD with wide front and Freeman trip loader |
Posted By: bently
Date Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 7:06am
| Get a two and a half gallon jug of garlon with the blue dye and a cheap hand sprayer. It's a selective herbicide unlike tordon that kills everthing. Garlon wil do the job and it goes a long way. Just spray the cambium layer and the bark on the stump and they will be stone cold dead. Used it for fifteen years when I did line clearance. 20% is good enough to kill most trees. Walnuts and elms are resistant to it, but it'll get them too if you use enough. Garlon breaks down quickly whereas Tordon stays in the ground for quite a while and is non selective. Tordon is what they use at substatiions and that is why nothing will grow there. |
Posted By: bently
Date Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 7:11am
| Forgot to say I did line clearance for fifteen years. Garlon is for broadleafs whereas Tordon will kill grass and everything else. I sprayed it for the entire time I did line clearance with no ill affects on me. |
Posted By: Henry se/k!
Date Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 9:39am
| Do you know that a mulberry tree is tougher than steel. If you don't thimk so, drop your corn ptanter marker in a small mulberry tree and see what happends |
Posted By: Brian F(IL)
Date Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 10:26am
|
Dennis,
Go with the Tordon. You won't be disappointed.
|
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 10:29am
|
Tordon works great. All you need to do is put a coating on the growth ring just inside the bark and it's dead.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Lars(wisc)
Date Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 10:33am
| depending on the size of the trunk, saw it off flush with the ground and them mow over it every time you mow your lawn, eventually it will die. |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 12:17pm
|
I finally got the poison oak killed off on my barn. It took mixing Crossbow with diesel fuel to do it. I've been doing what Lars says on some other mulberries. They don't give up very easy...
------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 1:16pm
|
I have had good luck with Tordon, and gly's, however, I've found that REALLY BIG mulberries will recover from a Tordon hit, simply because the roots reach out so far, that the tordon does not reach out far enough. I had one mulberry that had a stump about 50" across. It had been sprouting for years... I stripped and tordon'd it around the trunk in the early fall... and it totally laughed at me... so about five weeks later, I had the tree company cut it down and take the big pieces away... stack the leafy branches and small wood in one part of the yard about 30' from the stump. It took them a few days to do it... by the time they'd gotten the trunk down to ground level, the leaves had turned from green to purple.Then I incinerated the stump
I cut both ends out of a 55-gallon barrel, set it on top of the stump... on top of four bricks, so there was an air-gap between stump and barrel. Threw some dry twigs, sticks and lumber scraps in, and got a fire started... once going, I stuffed the leafy branches in it. The purple in the branches indicated that the leaves were amidst the anaerobic phase of Kreb's Cycle (noncyclic photophosphorilization)... hence, they were fermenting- creating alcohol. They spit and hissed, and burned like mad... making the barrel draw LOTS of air at the stump level. Once it was hot, I started throwing in the cut up branches... 2' pieces... they emitted a wonderful blue flame out the ends... when that barrel gets hot, it becomes translucent- you can see the flames right through the steel... as the water inside the wood flashes to steam, it blasts out an alcohol flame that's intense....
the result is intense heat, and incredible air draft at the stump.
What happens next, is that the stump becomes a giant wick... the roots keep passing moisture up to the stump, and since there's no leaves, nothing comes back to nourish the roots... and the roots die. You know you're making progress when the sprouts around your property start to wilt... just keep burning... they'll dry up and die. It's hard work, but if you've got a big tree, it's worth the effort. ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
Posted By: Dipstick In
Date Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 5:25pm
|
Wow! Dave, that's cool, now I gotta find a mulberry to play with! Maybe next year I wont have purple starling suprise all over the cars! Those things have more output than a goose does. ------------- You don't really have to be smart if you know who is! |
Posted By: Ted in NE-OH
Date Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 5:43pm
I use 1:1 Roundup on grapevines that I cut in the woods. Seems to work.
------------- CA, WD, C, 3 Bs, 2 Gs, WC, I-400, 914 |
Posted By: WC7610
Date Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 6:02pm
|
Have used Crossbow for several years on CRP and fence lines. This year I used Remedy, only because the Coop didn't have the Crossbow- they told me Remedy was a newer version of same thing.
Now is the perfect time to spray. To kill tree roots, spray in Sept when the leaves are starting to turn as the tree is taking nutrients to the roots and it will take the poison all the way. I've heard about the salt thing and rotting in one year- gotta try that. ------------- Thanks Most Bad Government has grown out of Too Much Government- Thomas Jefferson |
Posted By: patrickmull
Date Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 7:07pm
| we have a right of way cleaning outfit that uses tordon and used oil put it on as soon as you cut the tree |
Posted By: allischalmerguy
Date Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 9:40pm
|
Thanks for the help...I have Mulberries to cut...smaller ones than Daves! Pastor Mike ------------- It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa, |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2012 at 1:12am
|
I looked up the chemistry for Remedy, Crossbow, and Tordon. Crossbow is 16.9% triclopyr and 34.4% 2-4D ester. Remedy is 61.6% triclopyr and some kerosene. MSDS doesn't say how much kerosene. Tordon is 10.2% picloram and 39.6% 2-4D. So you can make Crossbow from Remedy and 2-4D. The Remedy label says for stumps to apply 1 part Remedy to 3 parts oil to the cut stump. Otherwise for brush it suggests a low rate for mulberry, but for late season, like now a higher rate. My tenant attacked Sumac this year and it came back the first three attacks. He applied a quart of Crossbow one time to a quarter acre where it should have been 4 ounces to the acre. Killed the top, but it sprouted again from the roots. A second pass did the same thing twice. I finally talked him into cutting back to the label strength and now the patch's sprouts are dead. Hitting it with way too much herbicide killed the top before the herbicide could translocate to the roots. Hitting it with the rated rate did get translocated to the roots it now looks like. Crossbow is about $80 a gallon, Tordon about $32 a quart, and I found something like Remedy for $22 a quart and my tenant has plenty 2-4D to mix with the triclopyr to make a cross bow equivalent. Mulberry is NOT on the Crossbow or the Tordon label as a controlled species. Its on the Remedy label. Gerald J. |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2012 at 7:13am
 This is one of the reasons why it's good to study a tool one uses, and try to develop an understanding of not so much how, but WHY it works, prior to using it. From a basic look, we see a splitting maul, and think that if it's sharp, and you swing it hard, it just splits wood... but we forget that it's heavy and blunt, and works because the wood has a natural weakness due to it's grain. Same goes for chemicals and biology... ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
Gerald J. wrote:Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2012 at 5:31pm
|
Good topic as we can all pick up on some possible solutions with our own growth issues.
I use Remedy, at the recommended mix, it takes care of 90% of the Mesquite sprouts that reappeared after (somebody?) thought they could just drive over them and grind em up with the cutter. Learned to soak them real good along the trunk and leaves, plus hitting the small stump as soon as it is cut off (30 days after intially traeting).
Larger trees left me wondering as i had been pulling out various types with the 190XT, catching them within two days of a good rain during the winter months so the root ball would come up on most types. As i can only get them up by pulling up to 6-7" diameter trees, I took to using a wood bit on anything 6" or bigger diameter. Bore a 1" hole about 2-3" deep on an angle, then pour a 1/4 cup of straight Remedy in the hole (ASAP) drilled about 3-4' feet above ground. The leaves at the top of a 20-30' tree will start to turn in one week.
Hope to be able to start burn piles around larger trees treated after one year, plus maybe just pushing some 8-10" ones over with the loader after two years.
Worth noting is what I felt was a possible reaction to Remedy after seeing my rubber glove had a hole in it this spring while treating. Rinsed my hand and only remembered the Remedy after coming down with itching sensation all over and it has lasted for months now. Spoke with a number of specialists with DOW Chemical just this afternoon and was given assurances that Remedy will leave the human system after 2-5 days, after external exposure.
I'll keep using it for both trees/shrubs and general weed control.
|
Posted By: TexasAllis
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2012 at 11:40am
|
I use Remedy on mesquites just like Tim, kills them dead. If it kills a mesquite it will kill anything. ------------- 1944 Allis C 1960 Allis D-17 LP |
Posted By: Dwayne TX
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2012 at 1:48pm
| I'll cast another vote for Remedy, mixed with diesel. Must be a Texas thing - I've used it at label strength on mesquites, cat claw, and salt cedar. Used it on prickly pear, even though our county agent said it won't work. Told him not to say that too loud because I didn't want the pear to hear him and come back to life. |
Posted By: DocUSMC
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2016 at 12:58pm
|
Of the above chemicals, do any kill the saplings but will not kill grass. I have cut down a large mulberry tree but cant seem to control the saplings. Any help will do. Doc |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2016 at 1:28pm
| If someone actually finds a way to kill those things they'll be millionaire, and I'll want to see that solution in the knowledge base!! LOL |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2016 at 2:10pm
|
I have the best luck getting rid of them (and others) by putting hot coals from the grill on em when I am done cooking. Just pour on top and they will get the job done. Just takes time.
------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2016 at 2:43pm
You guys are overthinking this, what with chemicals and all. Just buy yourself a HD-41 dozer, and push 'em all out! Problem solved! Lol 
|
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2016 at 2:45pm
|
Heck my 16 does the job and no special permit ------------- Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20 Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2016 at 5:05pm
Mulberry don't care if you doze it out. If one little piece of a root is left behind, and there are ALWAYS pieces left, it will grow a bush from every piece. Killing it with Tordon can get rid you of that. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: j.w.freck
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2016 at 6:01pm
| remedy brush killer..... |
Posted By: mdm1
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2016 at 6:16pm
|
If you have one call your county forester. I know people will think differently but I have nothing but good luck dealing with ours. They get paid to help you out and do enjoy it. They can give the right advice. ------------- Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK! |
Posted By: EPALLIS
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2016 at 8:04pm
| Mulberry trees are not that evil. Don't kill them all.... |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2016 at 8:36pm
Garlon/tordon are the same chemical, more or less. Won't kill grass, but may kill other trees, nearby, if they have grafts (root interfaces) with the mulberry. When in doubt, always follow the directions, on the label. By the way, post is 4 years old, any input from the OP, on success or failure?
 |
Posted By: DIESEL
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2016 at 10:00pm
| I work for a power company here in Nebraska an REA. We fight all types of trees that's the nature of the job, we spray all of our stumps with Pathfinder 2. It works very well and it will kill all types of trees without cutting them off, you just spray around the trunk at the base of the tree. It will even kill eastern red cedars if you spray the whole tree. |
Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 23 Aug 2016 at 4:33am
| I use the tree puller Coke's son made for me, but if I can't get back into the tree with my 7010, i'll cut it down with a chain saw and spray tordon over the whole stump. oh...and if you use tordon, throw the little nozzle away they attatch to the bottle, that wastes to much of it. get a hand spray bottle and use that. old windex sprayers works well. I use tordon, because it works on all trees, and because it's readily available here compared to the other chemicals listed that work too! in the spring, if you don't have time to cut a lot before planting, if you walk or drive along the edge of the field and cut off a branch that's sticking out into the field, spray that where you cut it off the main tree, by late summer/fall that tree will be dead. mulberry is great firewood if you heat with wood. and if you do woodworking, mulberry makes really pretty coffee table tops! |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 23 Aug 2016 at 11:56am
|
The variety of Mullberry trees around here, bulldozers won't tear them down in any way that will stop them from sprouting everywhere else. If you don't take action to dry out the roots, they're just gonna sprout everywhere that there's roots. As for chemicals, I've had good luck cutting the smaller appearances (under say... 10" diameter) and paint the top of the stump with TORDON RTU, and that seems to work well. ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 23 Aug 2016 at 12:05pm
That is what I was thinking they make great jelly. Now that stinking suemack that I got all over the place I need to get some good chemicals to kill that crap. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 23 Aug 2016 at 2:33pm
Dave, I hope you don't waste that stuff by painting the WHOLE 10 inchs  It only needs painted around the growth ring just below the bark.------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 23 Aug 2016 at 4:22pm
| the mulberries also have good health benefits to people! |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 23 Aug 2016 at 5:44pm
But for lawns, and laundry on a line, underneath one, not so much...
|
Posted By: dawntreader74
Date Posted: 23 Aug 2016 at 10:05pm
| when you cut one down' grind the stump out' thin your over with it. |
Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 23 Aug 2016 at 11:35pm
| Well if you put the laundry under one you got what you deserve for not thinking through where you put it.... as to the lawn well yes it does make a mess of that and the bird dropping make an extra special mess out of your car. |
Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2016 at 2:38am
| when I see mulberry trees growing, I wait til they is about 5 inches in diameter, then cut them. it's for the firewood thing. just big nuff, and don't hafta split it! and round firewood burns longer than split firewood! |