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D17 Generator

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=42798
Printed Date: 28 Apr 2024 at 5:52pm
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Topic: D17 Generator
Posted By: bincitybandit
Subject: D17 Generator
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 3:49pm
I know my D17 is a positive ground system. When I got the tractor the battery was hooked up as negative ground.  I changed it back to positive ground.  It is not charging.  I'm wondering if the generator is bad or if it was replaced at some point with a negative ground generator.  The number on the generator is 1100305 8C12, I believe.  The very first 0 could potentially be a 3, it is difficult to read.

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ALLIS: B, WC, G, G, D10, D12, D14, D14(NF), D15, D17, D17(NF), D19, D21, D21
MINNEAPOLIS MOLINE: U, U, U(NF), GB
JOHN DEERE: L
FORD: 871 Select-O-Speed
CASE: 600 Combine



Replies:
Posted By: GregLawlerMinn
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 4:12pm
Did you re-polarize the VR when you switched the battery polarity (and before you started the engine)? How about the leads on the ammeter? If not, you may have to replace the VR and polarize it and switch the leads on the ammeter.

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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC


Posted By: Tony.Or
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 5:17pm
That  is  correct  gen  number  for  12 volt D-17  no listing for  +  or  -  grd. Tony

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http://www.tonystractors.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.tonystractors.com


Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 5:36pm
Once flashed, generators work either polarity. If not flashed on the polarity change they can fry the cutout in the regulator.Flashing before running is crucial to cutout and sometimes generator life.

Gerald J.


Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 10:39pm
It may also have a Neg ground regulator on it. Some regulators don't care about ground, others do. Look on the back, it will tell you what you have. Bob


Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 10:49pm
Usually the difference in the magnetic regulator is in contact material so that the lifetime with the wrong polarity is short, but it works. A solid state regulator hidden in a metal case (fairly common these days) has nanoseconds of lifetime with reversed polarity.

Gerald J.


Posted By: D-17_Dave
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2011 at 11:05pm
Why switch it back. The tractor doesn't care what the polarity is.


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2011 at 8:05am
When you got the tractor somebody may have changed the polarity of the system. If it was working then, you more than likely cooked something that didn't need cooked by changing it to + ground without flashing the generator. Your coil should have polarity switched also. If you run + ground, the pos side of the coil should go to the distributor.
 Probably need work on the generator to get it going again. :(


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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2011 at 10:31am
If the generator and voltage regulator have been off the tractor, they need to be activated before it starts showing a charge.  With everything hooked up, short out the BAT and GEN fields on the voltage regulator for a split second.  After it sparks, it should be charging.


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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080


Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2011 at 11:34am
As above, repolarize the generator.  Negative ground is compatible with so much more.  I wouldn't change it back to positive ground.  If you haven't repolarized the generator yet and it was working as negative ground, switch it back to the way it was.


Posted By: bincitybandit
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2012 at 5:16pm
OK, so I arced out the bat and gen terminals on the voltage regulator, but it is still not charging.  The regulator is new, but I first hooked the battery up as negative ground and ran the tractor without polarizing it.  I assume the first thing to do is try a new regulator as I likely fried mine when I was reversing stuff around?  If I get a new regulator, remember to polarize it first, and it still doesn't charge then my generator must be faulty correct?

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ALLIS: B, WC, G, G, D10, D12, D14, D14(NF), D15, D17, D17(NF), D19, D21, D21
MINNEAPOLIS MOLINE: U, U, U(NF), GB
JOHN DEERE: L
FORD: 871 Select-O-Speed
CASE: 600 Combine


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2012 at 5:21pm
You can check your generator by removing the belt and running power to it. It will run like a motor if it is working and you hook it up right. YOU DO NOT POLARIZE A REGULATOR. You polarize the generator at the regulator connections.

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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2012 at 8:17pm
Since you've polarized, with the engine running say at least 1/2 throttle ground the F terminal, first at the regulator. It should give maximum charge. If it does, you have a faulty regulator. If it doesn't, ground the F term right at the generator. If it charges, the F wire is broken. You can test the gen like Charlie says. Pull the belt, unhook the wires on the gen, and run battery voltage to the A terminal. It should spin fast like a motor. While motoring, ground the F term. It should slow down but continue to motor.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford


Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2012 at 8:43pm
All the replys are correct and good advise. Sure has been a lot of decent mechanics confused and good equipment screwed up over the years by a battery inavertantly installed backwards, LOL. As they said it can be either way and function perfectly as long as everything was switched tha needs to be. NONE of the old regulators would work either way, they were ground specific. Only some of the newer mechanical ones can be rn either polarity and as Gerald said the electronics are toast in a nanno second. One way to tell if the tractor was converted to negative ground properly or on purpose as it may be, is to look at your igniton coil. Whichever side of the coil ( + or -) is connected to the distributer is what your battery ground termimal should be.



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