d17 problems
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=29307
Printed Date: 25 Apr 2024 at 4:32am
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Topic: d17 problems
Posted By: ironac
Subject: d17 problems
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 12:15am
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ok i overhauled my dads d17 that was sitting out in the field stuck for 6 years last fall. and ive been working on cleaning this tractor and fixing it up all winter. and i am completely stuck on this one problem. it will not run right. i rebuilt the carb and and cleaned the gas tank out and new sediment bulb. the first day i had it running it ran really smooth and nice but when you idled up to fast it cut out and shut off. i noticed when i pulled the choke it did not affect the running tractor at all. so i toyed with the carb and it had no affect on the d17 running. i checked the timing with a timing light and it was correct. i then readjusted the rocker arms. i took the govener off and everything looked ok. i took the manifold off and put new gaskets on and made sure everything sealed. nothing helped. i gave up for a couple weeks came back to it and started it up and ran really crappy and still cut out. got mad and gave up again. came back to it and tried to start it and it wouldnt. checked everything out again and tore the carb apart and cleaned it 3 or 4 times. still wouldnt run. i got a rubber hammer out and hit the carb as i was cranking and it fired up and was running pretty bad. float must of been stuck. toyed with carb and adjusted rockers again and idk how but i had it running pretty good and drove it around and had the cut out problem almost fixed and choke worked. had plenty of power. i let it run for a couple hours without problem. shut if off for awhile and came back to it and now it runs like crap again. when thru everything again and havent gained any ground. this tractor is a nice looking series 2 d17 and i swear i have nightmares about this thing. can anyone help me?
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Replies:
Posted By: BobHnwO
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 4:32am
Try a different condenser,also check points.
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Why do today what you can put off til tomorrow.
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Posted By: Kraig (WI)
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 5:34am
Yes, I agree with Bob, could be electrical.
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7010,D17D,WD45,WD,WC,WC,B,
Gleaner K,60,66,72
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Posted By: Bob D. (La)
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 7:18am
Not that it's a likely possibility, but check point gap. Also, what is condition of plugs.and plug wires. Also, choke should make a difference, either help it run correct or cause it to at least smoke,(black smoke from muffler). To me it sounds like there is a fuel issue, may or may not be carb. Check carb and insure float is not binding on side of carb, thereby not allowing enough gas into carb. As other have stated, could be electrical but I'm guessing from what you say it is fuel problem. Also, make sure gas cap is vented and also that air cleaner is not plugged.
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When you find yourself in a hole,PUT DOWN THE SHOVEL!!!
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Posted By: d17brown
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 7:24am
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isthe fuel tank clean ,also take a distr. from a running tractor and see if it helps
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Posted By: john(MI)
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 7:28am
Clean up all your ground connections as well, especially the battery ground to the tractor and the coil to the block.
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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Posted By: nella(Pa)
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 8:07am
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From the systems you describe it is a gas problem. Start at the gas tank by taking off the gas valve and checking for dirt and bugs and work to the carburetor. Keeping all the elictric connections clean is very important also.
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Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 9:41am
I think I'd start with ignition first. Points and condenser are not that expensive for good quality ones. I would avoid the cheap ones from discount stores. Maybe give Steve in NJ a call. Seems like I remember him saying he stocks Standard Blue Streak. If it were mine, it would have electronic (all my gas tractors do) ignition. Don't forget to check the bushings in the dist shaft. If the bushing is loose, you'll never have stable timing. (and dwell with points)
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Posted By: paulinkansas
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 10:05am
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I've had similar problems with my D17 after I rebuilt it. Ended up having 3 separate fuel issues.
1. The new gas cap I put on it was not vented. I have to crack it open when the engine is running or else it'll die.
2. The pontoon float wasn't set properly. The pontoon float also had a little dent in it from where it rubs against the needle. Had to braze the dent and then grind it smooth. In the process of brazing it, I melted some of the solder on the pontoon. Ended up getting a new pontoon.
3. The gas gauge would leak between the tank and the gauge. Had to put some sealant there to stop the leak. The sealant dissolved in the gas, and made it's way to the carb. It got stuck in the viton needle and the engine would flood. It would run great for 30 seconds if I turned off the gas at the sediment bowl.
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Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2011 at 10:13am
A bad condenser makes for rotten running.
Changing point gap changes ignition timing. Advanced timing can make for bad running, retarded for low power but smooooooth running.
Gerald J.
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Posted By: ironac
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2011 at 3:42am
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yeh the fuel tank has been cleaned and lined. i got plenty of flow to the carb. i will take the carb off and take it to a guy who know alot more about it than me. the points, plugs, coil, wires, and condenser are new in it but i didnt put them in. and friend did while i was putting putting in a new solenoid and a rebuilt starter in. he might not have the points gaped right.
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Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2011 at 8:58am
Save yourself some time and effort by checking the ignition FIRST. Just like Gearld says, a faulty condenser makes them run bad. Same goes for a worn distributor shaft. There's a lot more moving parts designed to wear out in the ignition system than there is in a carb. New doesn't necessarily mean good with todays ign parts. I avoid the cheap stuff found at places like TSC. If I were going to run points style ignition, I would look for Standard Blue Streak brand or Echlin from Napa.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Posted By: OrangePowerFranzen
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2011 at 10:27pm
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i think that we have wayne look at it and help us on it
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Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2011 at 1:44am
The part that I feel most likely, is ignition... and even though the points, condenser, plugs, etc., may have already been replaced, I wouldn't assume that either are good... in the last 10 years, I've found that the new condensers I've gotten went from almost 100% good out-of-box, to about 40% good out-of-box...
But the troubleshooting logic remains- you've worked on the carbeurator many times, and have made no substantial change in this tractor's orneryness, so try the ignition system first. I'll agree with others- going electronic (a Pertronix kit) and making sure the distributor bushings are in good shape is the way-to-go. Make sure the advance weights are moving, too... if they're stuck, well... it'll do crazy stuff.
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Posted By: ironac
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2011 at 3:09am
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i will eventually put electronic ignition in it. just put it it the 190xt this winter. i like it alot better bc if it doesnt start you can almost always know that its not the ignition.
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Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2011 at 6:42am
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On my D 17 series II, I ended up putting in a new distributor when it had those symptoms. Took care of it, and haven't had trouble since. My problem was that I hadn't realized that there needed to be oil in the little gearbox under the distributor, so the distributor gear was shot. Shaft was extremely loose as well. I have added electronic ignition and new coil since, and that made it start and run even better. Darrel
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Posted By: GregLawlerMinn
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2011 at 9:29am
You should also check out the oil bath air cleaner. Remove it to determine if it is clogged up.
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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC
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Posted By: captaindana
Date Posted: 20 Apr 2011 at 6:01pm
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My WD surprised me once upon a time with those symptons and it was indeed a faulty new condenser.
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Posted By: ironac
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2011 at 1:23am
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put new points and condenser in today. no improvement.
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Posted By: ironac
Date Posted: 24 Apr 2011 at 9:48pm
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turns out it wasnt any ignition problems. took the orifice high idle jet out of the carb and now it runs amazing and has tons of power.
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