clutch stuck on an hd6-b (drive)
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=143558
Printed Date: 27 Apr 2024 at 11:38am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: clutch stuck on an hd6-b (drive)
Posted By: onetrackmind
Subject: clutch stuck on an hd6-b (drive)
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2017 at 8:22pm
|
Gentlemen, new to the forum . I know this question has been asked a million times here goes 1,000,001. The first home remedy`, fill with diesel, acetone and auto. trans fluid, pb blaster. let set then find a big tree pull drive clutch handle and hope 4 the best. worst case scenario buy anew clutch pack hoping the old one will come out without too much dynamite lol. OK enough clowin around. what are the tried and true tricks to unstick a drive clutch? with some patience and a heated shop will i need every tool ,torch, crane and comealong to get this done? how about corrosives for a short period of time IE muric acid. Put in let set (time)? and drain then add rust inhibiters and find that big tree. Is it or should I say can it be areal bear to replace a drive clutch? Any and all info. is greatly appreciated. Thank you, Clyde
|
Replies:
Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2017 at 5:26am
| Generally the clutch disc takes a set with minimal corrosion to the flywheel or pressure plate and the trans input shaft to disc center hub thus keeping it engaged to the flywheel unable to move away enough to disengage. While corrosion inhibitors are fine for metals they are not so hot on clutch facings, same holds true for all the additives suggested in your post, a little diesel and flush out with acetone then allow to sit where will air/dry out, maybe try to get PB Blaster on the input shaft but that could be troublesome then find that tree. As to removal the only issue would be getting the trans shaft free of the disc center hub, any amount of wrestling will persuade that without much trouble. Used to have to deal with this very issue on old grain trucks, mice nests, rust from sitting in barn, age related wear and still they come right out where would not disengage. |
Posted By: Dozer
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2017 at 7:14am
| Adding any liquid to the master clutch can make a worse mess. Start the HD6 in gear with the steering clutches tied back. Drive it using the steering clutches. If this does not work adjust the master clutch for less engagement. |
Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2017 at 8:12am
| Be real careful with the hand clutch. This is real important because the final drives are marginal at best on a 6. You can shell one out before you know it. |
Posted By: onetrackmind
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2017 at 8:36pm
Dozer, would you please help me to understand how starting in gear with the drive clutches tied back will help my situation. would that help unstick the left side??? The right side works beautifully. thanks, 1TM
|
Dozer wrote:Posted By: Dozer
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2017 at 8:17am
|
If the master clutch is frozen making the machine work with the master clutch disengaged or adjusted loose will usually free it up. Usually the steering clutches freeze up. To free up steering clutches see below. With the motor running, the steering clutches disengaged, and the master clutches disengaged the dozer will not move if the steering clutches are working properly. If both steering clutches are frozen the dozer will move forward. If one steering clutch is frozen that side will turn with all of the motor power directed thru the frozen steering clutch. If you make the dozer work you may be able to unlock the steering clutch |
Posted By: onetrackmind
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2017 at 12:23am
Dozer, OK, Master clutch is disengaged, and the steering clutches are disengaged. The engine is at an idle. I shift the trans. into for ward or reverse. I engage the master clutch and depending on what gear, forward or reverse it rolls straight in either direction. When i engage the left steering clutch and apply the left brake, nothing it still goes straight. When I engage the right steering clutch and apply the right brake it qworks just like it should. I recently bought it I'm begining to wonder if the left brake band is not adjusted p[roperly. What does it sound like to you? Thank you by the way 4 your response. 1TM
|
Posted By: Dozer
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2017 at 8:23am
|
The master clutch is working properly or you would not be able to start it. The function of the steering clutches is to disengage power to one side. To turn RIGHT disengage the RIGHT steering clutch and apply the RIGHT brake. It sounds like you can turn right going forward. To turn left use the right steering clutch going backward. Drive it around and make it work that is the bast chance of loosening it up. If you can only turn right going forward then the left steering clutch is bad. Before you try to wash the clutch with solvent be sure the steering clutch compartment is reasonably clean. There is a pipe plug under the tractor. Verify that it is open and not blocked with junk. I tried to wash my steering clutch with diesel. It has a mouse nest and the diesel made the situation worse. I have NEVER been able to free a stuck steering clutch with solvent. My post "Like I need another project" shows problems removing the steering clutch from my HD5 Good Luck |
Posted By: Ray54
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2017 at 11:07am
| The brake and steering clutch both have adjustments. If the left steering lever has a lot more free travel than the right that is a good clue it needs adjusting. But the bad is clutch plate rusting together in machines that sit a lot is common. Ether way time to start looking at buying the books that cover your machines serial number. |