Single bottom trailer plow on steel
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=108616
Printed Date: 28 Apr 2024 at 7:38pm
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Topic: Single bottom trailer plow on steel
Posted By: littlemarv
Subject: Single bottom trailer plow on steel
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2015 at 9:29pm
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Picked this up the other day, anyone know what model it is? Anything I should know about setting it up?
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 Thanks. ------------- The mechanic always wins. B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H |
Replies:
Posted By: jiminnd
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2015 at 9:42pm
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Don't know the model but was just working on mine today, new share and greased it up, got to try the lift out, planning on useing it at our plow day this fall. ------------- 1945 C, 1949 WF and WD, 1981 185, 1982 8030, unknown D14(nonrunner) |
Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2015 at 9:45pm
| Just some basic info. Furrow side lever levels the plow side to side. The land side lever is the depth. The chain over the draw bar is adjusted so that when in the ground there is no tension on it but it is short enough to lift and carry the back end of the plow. Adjust the hitch so the bottom is cutting 14-16 inches. This usually puts the furrow wheel 4-6" away from the side of the furrow. The share on the plow looks to be worn pretty good and lost it's "suck". Expect to have problems in dry or hard ground. Three easy ways to tell if your share is working correctly. When in the ground there should be down pressure on the land side wheel. When plowing if it is jumping up and down like it has no weight on it your share needs to be reworked or replaced. If the depth goes up and down with the hardness of the ground (outside of extreme hardness) likewise you need to do something with teh share. Lastly stop with the plow in the ground. Walk away from it 20 feet or so to the side and compare the top of the frame, for and aft to the lay of the ground. The frame should be very much parallel , if the front is lower than the rear then the share needs reworked or replaced. |
Posted By: littlemarv
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2015 at 10:11pm
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Does anybody have a picture of a good share? Butch nailed it right on the head, I tried plowing a little and it wouldn't sink into the ground. However, I had the hitch as low as it would go, I shortened up the chain above the drawbar after I was back home, which lifted up the rear of the plow and pointed the share down more, I thought. Didn't get to try it though. Need to find a plow day or wait till the corn is off to test it out. I'm sure if i go to a plow day, I'll find plenty of advice there! ------------- The mechanic always wins. B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H |
Posted By: jiminnd
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2015 at 7:07am
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I have used a 2 bottom version alot, just think it would be fun to use the 1, I have to learn to put pictures on here,I was lucky enought to have a new share. ------------- 1945 C, 1949 WF and WD, 1981 185, 1982 8030, unknown D14(nonrunner) |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2015 at 10:06am
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Allis #2 and #4 were sold on steel. It looks sturdy, probably a #4. Allis sold wide shares, narrow shares, normal suck shares, and deep suck shares for most plow bottoms often in chilled iron (wears best but breaks when it hits rocks), hardened steel (wears good but breaks when it hit boulders), and soft center steel (stands up to rocks and boulders and wears good until the hard surface is gone then wears very fast). The plow bottoms book doesn't show pictures of those variations. And likely they were shaped a bit differently for different bottoms. For all plows tipping the frame forward makes them dig in better and on this plow it looks like that's done by shortening that chain up front on top. On a three point plow the top link makes that adjustment, on a snap coupler plow its an adjustable bar on top the plow frame. To set the tilt to have a better chance of working, hitch it to the tractor and working on a flat surface, run the tractor left rear wheel up on a block of wood so its as high off the ground as the furrow depth you want (6 to 8" is common), then set the plow on that surface and adjust the tilt until the plow point and the landside are both on that flat surface. I think a deep suck share will have a tongue a couple inches wide and 3/4 to 2" in front of the straight line of the rest of the cutting edge that angles down a few degrees. I have a 1 horse plow set up for the garden tractor that my dad built and it didn't dig in good, he took it to a blacksmith (about 1951) and the blacksmith bent that tongue down a little and then it plowed fine. Look in AC Plows Parts 101 up top for a link to the plow bottoms book and look for part numbers on share, frog, or moldboard to identify the bottom and the originally available shares. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2015 at 10:19am
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The chain does nothing for the plow when in the ground, it is there to pick up the rear of the plow when raised. It must have slack when the plow is lowered or it will make it's own slack, usually by bending the plow drawbar upward but sometimes by breaking the chain or bending the top bracket. As Gerald said you can put some suck in a worn out share by bending the tip down with a sledge. Heat it red, knock it down a bit, quench in water. That share is worn pretty good so you need to make sure it isnt back into the frog by looking underneath. 1 bottom #2 and #4 plows are quite rare. Looks like #1 plow to me and looks like a#325 bottom.
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Posted By: steelwheelAcjim
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2015 at 11:34am
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That's a No. 1. It appears to be at least a 16in bottom. You have the optional rolling tail wheel. That was a $15.00 option according to a price list I have dated 7-40. By the picture, you need a new plow share. ------------- Pre-WW2 A-C tractors on steel wheels...because I'm too cheap to buy tires! |
Posted By: littlemarv
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2015 at 9:29pm
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Seems like the consensus is I need a new share. Here is a picture of the number on the backside of the moldboard. Mean anything to anybody? Can a guy get a share anywheres?
http://s304.photobucket.com/user/rsommer1/media/IMG_6481_zpslfs7mttz.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  ------------- The mechanic always wins. B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2015 at 11:06am
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The plow bottoms book referenced in AC Plows Parts 101 up top has it on two pages. Its a #24 16" bottom. There are two versions of that bottom, with different frogs. The first one with a bolted draw rod bracket shows 6 choices of shares. Look at pages 64 and 65 for that selection and the other one has a welded draw rod bracket and show only 4 of those 6 share choices beginning on page 71. If you can't down load and study that book I can type the descriptions and part numbers and then you can ask here, "Does anybody have a share to fit?" Dave The Plowman may. It won't be from modern after market plow parts companies. And be sure to get matching bolts, they probably aren't like the modern plow bolts. This book says they are #3 heads, 1-1/4" long 3/8" diameter. Some shares take two, some take one. Gerald J. |
Posted By: littlemarv
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2015 at 11:34am
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Thanks for the help! ------------- The mechanic always wins. B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H |
Posted By: littlemarv
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2016 at 10:27pm
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Well, they chopped the corn up at Pa's place this week, so its time to get this plow in the ground! I mostly brought this topic back up for Davetheplowman to look at. I maybe in need of a new share, if I can't get this one reworked. I popped the share off, and Pa said he would take it to the fellow in town that used to rework his shares when him and grandpa were farming. Here is how it mounts- a long draw bolt and one plow bolt. http://s1380.photobucket.com/user/rsommer11/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160923_180356243_HDR_zpsrvkzbjef.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  It isn't worn into the frog, although I told pa to have them build that area back up again. Actually says AC on the back. http://s1380.photobucket.com/user/rsommer11/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160923_181525701_zpsgl7mjslu.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  There is also a number on the share. http://s1380.photobucket.com/user/rsommer11/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160923_181536818_zps4gsx5hnr.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  I'm pretty sure it says 308865 CR on it. So, any info you guys could share would be appreciated. ------------- The mechanic always wins. B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H |
Posted By: littlemarv
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2016 at 10:46pm
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My best guess is its the drawing on page 75 of the parts book from grandpas tractors from the link in the "plow parts 101" topic in the knowledge base section? But that share number isn't listed. ------------- The mechanic always wins. B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H |
Posted By: davetheplowman
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2016 at 7:18pm
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I have a very good used one. PM me for more info. ------------- D14,D15 series II,D17 series III & IV |
Posted By: littlemarv
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2016 at 9:28pm
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Well, got the share back. Looks pretty wicked! http://s1380.photobucket.com/user/rsommer11/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161016_085948132_zps9tocc9yz.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  Bolted it up, used a "clip plow bolt" from Fleet. Doesn't fit quite flush but will do. First pass is kind of tricky when you don't have a furrow to drop into. I see the plow isn't quite level front to back, but if I set it any deeper, the front end of the tractor comes off the ground! http://s1380.photobucket.com/user/rsommer11/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161016_100458413_zpsc20ph3fo.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s1380.photobucket.com/user/rsommer11/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161016_104108949_zpsd7hbvduh.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s1380.photobucket.com/user/rsommer11/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161016_105229699_zpsysxni5ho.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s1380.photobucket.com/user/rsommer11/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161016_105254343_zpsa4vqzbou.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s1380.photobucket.com/user/rsommer11/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161016_105310471_zpszrfiq5nd.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  Sure didn't take long to get the bottom shined up. FINALLY! Something my kids can spray paint and not have me freak out about runs and even coverage! Slather it on, guys, http://s1380.photobucket.com/user/rsommer11/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161016_164928942_zpsuergytf8.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s1380.photobucket.com/user/rsommer11/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161016_165007167_zpst1zsnjor.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  Thanks for looking! ------------- The mechanic always wins. B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H |