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CrestonM 
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 Posted: 21 Aug 2016 at 10:30am |
Lonn, that really is a slick looking combine!!!
I just don't know about that cab.....When you're cutting wheat and it's 100+ degrees, even with the door and window open, you're in an oven! I had to do that for a while in an M2 this summer before we could get the A/C charged. Whew!
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CrestonM
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Posted: 21 Aug 2016 at 10:23am |
 JohnCO wrote:
Creston, did you get the trailer?
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No I didn't. Surprisingly, it needed new tires all the way around, and some of the deck boards were rotten (couldn't tell from the photo). Even with that, it sold for not a whole lot less than a new one could be bought for.
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Lonn
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Posted: 21 Aug 2016 at 8:18am |
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shameless (ne)
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Posted: 21 Aug 2016 at 1:02am |
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if he did, then he's gonna hafta get a bigger truck to pull it!
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JohnCO
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Posted: 21 Aug 2016 at 12:46am |
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Creston, did you get the trailer?
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"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
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CrestonM
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Posted: 20 Aug 2016 at 11:42pm |
Lonn wrote:
Creston, the K that my uncle has is serial number 5896. I thought it was a late model but it's not. It is in cherry condition just looking it over briefly today. I'll send you pics I took tonight and will send them to you or post them here sometime tomorrow night. It's really clean and been shedded pretty much all it's life except the past few months as far as I know. 16.9x26 front tires in real good shape. He's going to try to replace a few finger guides in the feeder beater that shattered due to age. They are the plastic ones. It's really a honey in my opinion. |
Ok thanks!
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CrestonM
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Posted: 20 Aug 2016 at 11:41pm |
Lonn wrote:
BTW if you haul a combine on a trailer I'd just winch it on. Much easier on the heart. |
That would probably be the thing to do. But...remember you can't do that to these. It will twist the axle off, from what I understand.
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Lonn
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Posted: 20 Aug 2016 at 9:50pm |
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BTW if you haul a combine on a trailer I'd just winch it on. Much easier on the heart.
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Lonn
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Posted: 20 Aug 2016 at 9:48pm |
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Creston, the K that my uncle has is serial number 5896. I thought it was a late model but it's not. It is in cherry condition just looking it over briefly today. I'll send you pics I took tonight and will send them to you or post them here sometime tomorrow night. It's really clean and been shedded pretty much all it's life except the past few months as far as I know. 16.9x26 front tires in real good shape. He's going to try to replace a few finger guides in the feeder beater that shattered due to age. They are the plastic ones. It's really a honey in my opinion.
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JayIN
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Posted: 20 Aug 2016 at 7:13am |
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Dang! When I was in school I hardly had beer money. Times sure have changed.
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sometimes I walk out to my shop and look around and think "Who's the idiot that owns this place?"
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CrestonM
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Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 10:36pm |
shameless (ne) wrote:
just for your info....you will PUCKER the first time you drive a combine up the ramps! lol
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Yeah!! No kidding!! I still do whenever I load my B. I don't mind loading/unloading the 8N as I always have an implement on the back, like my brush hog, and that makes it a lot harder to flip over backwards, thankfully. I always load tractors on backwards if there are no implements on the back to keep it from tipping. Just after we got my B, my dad was loading it straight up on our trailer driving forwards, and he got almost all the way on, but something wasn't lined up right (can't remember exactly, that was 7 years ago) and he had to back down. At that time, the B didn't have the sicklemower, or any other weight up front, so when he pressed the clutch, the tractor rolled backwards, and the front popped about a foot off the trailer deck. The tractor was still on the ramps, so it was pretty scary both for me and him. That was when we decided to either always load in a ditch, or always back on.
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CrestonM
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Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 10:29pm |
shameless (ne) wrote:
as for the shive being frozen, it's not, as you have been driving it already. wouldn't hurt tho to squirt one shot of grease in it, before driving it again. and that's a nice trailer, good luck! as for the header drive, I prolly have one here off an old header I used for parts.
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Well, the sheaves have expanded or contracted. I never tried the variable speed after I added oil, so I don't know what would happen if I tried using the variable speed to speed up/slow down. Or do you mean the shaft might have been stuck, thus keeping it from moving at all?
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CrestonM
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Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 10:27pm |
TREVMAN wrote:
You are exactly right shameless. My first E does not have foot brakes, they were an option, and the trans brake was not working, spring was rusted away. It was a bit of a ride...but Ive had worse LOL Trev.
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So that's why this doesn't have those. They were an option. It has the clutch, and the trans brake. It has holes for the steering brakes, but they aren't here. The brake on this one does work, though.
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Michael V (NM)
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Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 10:05pm |
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yes, the Gleaners are really easy to work on... you been around the 'L' series so you know that...K will not have the open concave like the L or M..,,bearings should be available at any good farm parts store,, bearing supply etc.,, some of our local 'auto parts' stores are really ag oriented,, so they carry a lot of ag parts. Abline Machine, or ASAP will have lotsa parts to,, they will also have new replacement parts also
nice trailer, would prolly go at auction around here at bout $6-8000..looks to be 20' with 4-5' dove tail,,you'll prolly wish later you gots a 28-30' w/ tail... jus sayin... but it looks like a nice trailer w/ tandem duals, ya don't hafta worry bout getting to much on it, it will haul a D-21, 220 easy...
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TREVMAN
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Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 9:59pm |
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You are exactly right shameless. My first E does not have foot brakes, they were an option, and the trans brake was not working, spring was rusted away. It was a bit of a ride...but Ive had worse LOL Trev.
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shameless (ne)
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Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 9:51pm |
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better check and make sure both brakes work or none at all, one brake may upset it off the ramps
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shameless (ne)
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Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 9:50pm |
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brakes? who needs brakes? LMAO yer right tho Trev! whew!
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TREVMAN
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Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 9:46pm |
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Backing off without foot brakes can be interesting as well! LOL Trev.
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shameless (ne)
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Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 9:42pm |
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just for your info....you will PUCKER the first time you drive a combine up the ramps! lol
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TREVMAN
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Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 9:38pm |
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That's a nice looking trailer. I rent a 24 foot that looks just like the one in your pic to move my treasures around, that will be perfect for a K sized combine...Good luck and keep us posted, Trev.
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shameless (ne)
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Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 9:37pm |
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as for the shive being frozen, it's not, as you have been driving it already. wouldn't hurt tho to squirt one shot of grease in it, before driving it again. and that's a nice trailer, good luck! as for the header drive, I prolly have one here off an old header I used for parts.
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CrestonM
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Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 9:10pm |
TREVMAN wrote:
The someone who said the chains were rusted solid was me. Look, I would not abandon ship just yet...I pulled an E out of a foot deep pond 6 years ago. It had not run since 1988. It needed a lot of TLC, cleaning up, little fixes here and there. Many said what are you doing, you will never get it going etc. BUT, due partially to the general over engineering and quality of materials, and build quality of THE SILVER , I got the thing running, driving and harvesting again. I had to replace the drive and traction drive belts, the straw chopper belt. Cleaned the fuel tank out, did a tune up. Some of the wooden arms on the reel were broke so I made new ones out of 16 guauge I bent up. Missing some guards, replaced those, the knife was like new. Pitman was missing, found one, got that all working. Believe it or not I have only had to replace 2 bearings, Gleaner used standard easily sourced bearings throughout, I bought mine at a local farm supply store, not real expensive. It threshes and cleans really well its lots of fun. It was some work but I enjoy this stuff and if I wasn't doing this kind of thing I would be out chasing women half my age...My wife doesn't seem to like that too much. I don't think anyone is trying to discourage you here Creston. Do not fix anymore on that machine or the price will go up! Go back, take $600 and make the deal, and then, have fun. It will cost a few hundred to get it reliable again, so keep that in mind. If you need any help, you know where to post and pictures please! I think you will have it back in shape in no time and you will have yourself a cool piece of working history. Good luck man, Trev.
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That's the kind of pep talk I needed!! Thanks!! Good to know that about the bearings, too. I always heard Gleaners were simple to work on, but aside from routine maintenance and putting the chains back that always jump off out L3 because the sprockets are shot, I've never worked on one really. I'll do some more talking to the guy next week. I'm also going to an auction in the morning to maybe buy a 8' deck gooseneck dovetail. It has tandem axles with duals, so it's made for heavy hauling. Wish me luck! Even if I don't end up with the combine, the trailer will be nice for those times in the future.
Edited by CrestonM - 19 Aug 2016 at 9:12pm
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TREVMAN
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Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 8:59pm |
The someone who said the chains were rusted solid was me. Look, I would not abandon ship just yet...I pulled an E out of a foot deep pond 6 years ago. It had not run since 1988. It needed a lot of TLC, cleaning up, little fixes here and there. Many said what are you doing, you will never get it going etc. BUT, due partially to the general over engineering and quality of materials, and build quality of THE SILVER , I got the thing running, driving and harvesting again. I had to replace the drive and traction drive belts, the straw chopper belt. Cleaned the fuel tank out, did a tune up. Some of the wooden arms on the reel were broke so I made new ones out of 16 guauge I bent up. Missing some guards, replaced those, the knife was like new. Pitman was missing, found one, got that all working. Believe it or not I have only had to replace 2 bearings, Gleaner used standard easily sourced bearings throughout, I bought mine at a local farm supply store, not real expensive. It threshes and cleans really well its lots of fun. It was some work but I enjoy this stuff and if I wasn't doing this kind of thing I would be out chasing women half my age...My wife doesn't seem to like that too much. I don't think anyone is trying to discourage you here Creston. Do not fix anymore on that machine or the price will go up! Go back, take $600 and make the deal, and then, have fun. It will cost a few hundred to get it reliable again, so keep that in mind. If you need any help, you know where to post and pictures please! I think you will have it back in shape in no time and you will have yourself a cool piece of working history. Good luck man, Trev.
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CrestonM
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Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 6:18pm |
Well, I went and did a little better inspection. I added 3 quarts of ATF to the hydraulic reservoir, and it didn't fill it up. However, when I started it (Starts really easily, and sounds good too!) I raised the header, and after about 3 seconds, it raised up! I un-did the lock, and then lowered it all the way down, then back up. Did that a couple times, then reset the lock and shut it off. I didn't try to drive it because didn't someone say the variable speed drive sheaves could be stuck, and that would destroy the belt? Also, I tried turning some shafts, and the header is all free, as is the beater and cylinder (Didn't get a look at the bars) The walkers move, spreader turns, elevator chains turn, but the raddle is stuck, and the chains (like someone said) are rusted stuck. I also removed a cover plate on the side of the machine under the operator's station, and there was a varmints nest there. So it would need more TLC than I thought. I may just pass on it. That seems to be the general vibe, and you guys are probably right.
Also, I've never bought combine bearings (or any bearings for that matter) so what's the average price for a sealed bearing that would be on this combine? I know that's an incredibly vague question, (kinda like saying how much does a car cost) but an average ball park range, like a sealed bearing for the raddle or walkers, elevators, etc.? I'd like to get an average figure, so I'll have something to tell the owner in case he asks how much it'd cost to fix. Thanks
Edited by CrestonM - 19 Aug 2016 at 6:27pm
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Lonn
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Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 1:21pm |
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I agree that you should save the pickup head and look for another head.
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CrestonM
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Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 12:47pm |
Not really in love, I'm just trying to balance the good with the bad. Trying to take in both sides and make a wise decision. I need to look it over more and try to turn some shafts.
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Dmpaul89
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Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 12:31pm |
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Sounds like your in love so really doesn't matter our opinion at this point :)
Go buy it
Heads are dime a dozen. I'd leave the pickup alone it would be use full if you wanted to do small grains or edible beans or something specialized
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CrestonM
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Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 11:47am |
Michael V (NM) wrote:
could be a rats nest in the machine,, basically plugging it up
Did ya open the inspection covers on the side of the machine and look inside?
I would almost bet the hydraulic problems are its low on oil
I would really try to pay less than $500, just because its gonna take a lot to get in any kind of field ready shape, belts and cylinder bars add up quick,,, then there's sure to be bearings to be replaced,, maybe needs a raddle chain too??
oh yea,, finding a header for direct cutting and/or fixing this one...
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I did look inside the machine, and it was clean as a whistle surprisingly. Now, that was just the walkers and shoe, and the back end of the raddle. I don't know what the cylinder area looks like. Is there a door on top of the feederhouse I can open to inspect the cylinder? Once I get to it, I'll take pics and post them here so you guys can diagnose it. I don't know the difference in good and worn bars. My only experience is with All-Crop bars 
I will get some oil and add to the pump, and see what happens. I kinda don't want to fix it, because then the owner will probably want more if the header and variable speed works.
I'll also get underneath and pop the cylinder door (Does it work just like an L/M?), and also remove that raddle cover and take a look.
He also showed me in a granary where there are probably a dozen belts are more, and they probably go on the combine because they are among-st a bunch of other K parts, including two sickles. The belts are NOS.
I don't think header would be too hard to convert to straight cut. Drop alfalfa pick up, slide in the sickle, find a sickle drive for it (Pitman or wobble box?), and lastly a reel (Which I think I can find in western OK.) Also, it does have the manual adjust for reel speed. The setup with multiple sheaves. It also has manual reel height.
Ok, now knowing all this, what do you guys think now?
I respect you guys opinions, and I'm not 100% set on it yet, so you could probably still sway me one way or the other. I'm really kinda in the middle right now.
However, that being said, I don't want to sound rude, but I kinda think you guys are being too harsh on this poor little combine! I think after it gets a bath and the chains oiled and cleaned up, it'll do good! Hey, it was half barn kept (rear hung out of the barn) which is GREAT for Oklahoma!! All you guys up north have combines like Lonn was talking about that look like they just came off the show room. We don't have that. Most farmers down here left their equipment out all the time (and many still do), so something like this is our version of a gem. Plus, it's a first year model, and doesn't have a cab! (Them cabs make you "soft" Lol  ) Heck, great-great granddad's 60A has sat outside since 1950, and it sat idle outside from 1983 till 2016, it was full of varmints nests, the straw rack was all rotted out, the grain drag raddle chain was toast (links were all worn so thin they were snapping one right after the other.) A little TLC and it cut wheat this summer, and delivered a near perfect sample with minimum loss!
Edited by CrestonM - 19 Aug 2016 at 11:53am
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Michael V (NM)
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Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 10:58am |
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could be a rats nest in the machine,, basically plugging it up
Did ya open the inspection covers on the side of the machine and look inside?
I would almost bet the hydraulic problems are its low on oil
I would really try to pay less than $500, just because its gonna take a lot to get in any kind of field ready shape, belts and cylinder bars add up quick,,, then there's sure to be bearings to be replaced,, maybe needs a raddle chain too??
oh yea,, finding a header for direct cutting and/or fixing this one...
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AC7060IL
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Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 10:40am |
CrestonM wrote:
I'll check those things probably next week. Next Thursday is as soon as I could go back, as my college classes are my first priority (I only have one class on Thursday, though, so that's kinda my "free day" )
Also, how should I free up the separator clutch? |
Freeing up the clutch is probably not the issue. It's all the rotating items listed in my previous post that may require attention.
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