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shuttle shift: how does it work

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doctorcorey View Drop Down
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    Posted: 06 Aug 2013 at 11:51pm
  I need a brief description of a typical shuttle shift transmission, and what kind of clutch is used, as there seems to be fluid involved, I wonder if this is a torque convertor of sorts or a hydraulically applied clutch. I surmise that the fore and aft operation is accomplished with the use of syncronizers and possibly a planetary gearset. I'm buying a backhoe with issues and need a primer. Confused
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2013 at 12:19am
No sycronizers and no gear changes. Basically you have 2 separate clutch packs, one a direct drive and one with a reverser, maybe the reverser has gear reduction too??. The clutches run in oil.
Same setup as the power director on D series except the high side is direct drive and the low side goes through a gear reduction instead of a reverser.


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 07 Aug 2013 at 12:22am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2013 at 6:16am
The shuttle in my AC 7G is four clutch packs, two for reverse(Lo/Hi) and same for forward, they are attached to the bevel gear pinion as any trans is but are driven from a torque converter, you decelerate to disconnect the converter then shift and reaccelerate.

Most small tractors with a shuttle work much the same but with one forward and one reverse, most use the main transmission for gear speed changes. I know of two that are very similar to a hydro trans where as you move the shuttle selector you vary the speed at which it applies both in forward or reverse so higher final range gear can be selected with slippage made thru the shuttle.
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doctorcorey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote doctorcorey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2013 at 8:14am
   This is a Case 420 gas backhoe. Foot clutch/decell with forward/reverse shuttle with a 4 speed gearbox behind it and hi/lo range. I understand most about it except the clutch, wondering if it is a simple manual clutch of some type of fluid drive. It doesn't have the feel of a simple diaphram clutch plate, sort of like a dampened release mechanism. Anyway, I got this so cheap it will pay even for a parts machine, and excellent tires! I'm fairly an expert with automatic trans in road vehicles, but have no manual or parts list for this machine, yet.    Our 7G's are constant mesh, multipack clutch operation with reverse accomplished through an idler shaft. Torque convertor with tremendous multiplication. A very nice set-up that should be nearly indestructable! I figure me auto trans experience will come in handy if ever I have to reseal my 7G I imagine most seals will have to be improvised. Luckily, I think you can still get plates and bearings.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote michale34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2013 at 11:04am
a guy i know has a cat 933 thats shuttle shift direct drive with a reverser . has a master clutch and gear transmission .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote doctorcorey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2013 at 3:11pm
  I downloaded a complete parts manual for this hoe for 25.00, not too bad, but numbers are a little hard to read on the diagrams. I believe this machine has a torque convertor and a multi-plate master clutch, then the shuttle system which consists of two sychronized gears and one idler, then to a hi-lo unit, then the 4 speed trans and final. A lot of gears! I'd prefer the setup of my MF 202 with diaphram clutch and 3+R trans. Simple and bulletproof. Well, thanks for your help
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote doctorcorey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 2013 at 2:41pm
  Well, I got it home, and after some snooping, found it to have just a plain old 3 fingered pressure plate with a button disc. Easy pudding. I'll now remove the improvised mess of springs, baling wire and homemade brackets someone fabricated to try to overcome a simple frozen/ dragging throwout bearing. A few minutes with my borescope and a can of white lithium grease, and it moves and returns properly. Part of this baling wire/spring mess was attached to the shuttle shift lever, causing it to jump out of gear. Now I also see vice grip marks and evidence of an attempted "adjustment" to the hoe lift cylinder return line flow valve. Some of these old tractors barely have a chance against ham-fisted amateur mechanics. This tractor will like me.Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JFon101231 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2015 at 6:18pm
Think this thread is a good place to start - just bought an older Allis, not sure if its I40, I400, I60 or I600.  has backhoe and loader, and moves forward and reverse with the lever on the left side, forward front/back reverse.  

However, the clutch pedal I assume, seems completely useless?  It falls to the floor and doesn't come back up.  I can go forward and backward with just the lever (connected to foot pedal though it needs some adjustment).  Pushing just a little in either direction it'll creep then push further and it'll go faster.  I'm not sure if that is proper operation or (a) something is already broken and/or (b) it will break or prematurely wear something out by operating this way.

I looked under the front by a round inspection cover and it looks like maybe there is a throwout bearing that maybe should be connected to a fork or something?

Need to ID this machine and get some manuals for it...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2015 at 8:01pm
JF, Welcome to the forum, Some pictures would help. THat it has a floor pedal leads me to believe it is a newer model.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JFon101231 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2015 at 8:33pm
Hello!  I have some pics stored here:

But can take any more of anything specific like cab arrangements or backhoe if needed.  

Looking to learn anything I can on this machine - my first tractor!  
Perhaps the clutch is only used to shift between the 1-4 gears?  Its in 1st right now, haven't tried to move it... 

Thx!


Edited by JFon101231 - 28 Dec 2015 at 8:49pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2015 at 9:00pm
Looks to me to be in the D-15/I-600 family.  Pictures of the shifter pedal and linkage would be helpful.  Also, serial # of the tractor, it's located on carb side, where motor meets the torque tube, on the 45ยบ angled surface.  Motor serial # is located along the same area, about an inch forward of the tractor serial #.  Lots of times, battery acid etching, rust, and paint make it hard to read.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JFon101231 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec 2015 at 7:42am
I loaded a couple more pics to the folder.

I see the engine tag tho I need to clean it. I didn't see the Tractor serial number tag but I'll head back out there tonight when I'm back from work with some brake cleaner and see what I can dig up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec 2015 at 6:00pm
Looked at the new pics. That linkage I've never seen before, but where it is indicates D-14/15 lineage.  In the first picture, That appears to be a motor serial #, but the spot where it should be, at least on the older ones, is right behind that cobbled up PVC air hose elbow.  Is there a dry donaldson type air cleaner, mounted to the center hood support?

See the seam where the motor meets torque tube?  Front of that seam, on the flange of the motor should be motor#, rear of that seam should be the tractor#.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JFon101231 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec 2015 at 9:36am
In the pics showing the linkage, you can see the larger flat pedal for shuttle shift has a threaded rod connection back to where the hand lever connects.  
The "regular" bar pedal is the clutch (at least so I believe), and as you see it is sitting all the way down to floor, seems to be totally disconnected from whatever should be at the other end of the smaller connecting rod that passes behind it :(

Uploaded some more pics.  

- Took a pic of air cleaner, and also of oval hole in the hood, leading me to think that original muffler was oval and since replaced rather than the sheetmetal.
- Took a pic from driver seat as well to show layout
- I cleaned up the motor serial # tag a bit but forgot to take another pic of it, doh!
I didn't see a serial # for motor on that side of the flange, but will check again.  
- I used a wire brush and was able to uncover some numbering on the torque tube side of flange, but it is VERY hard to make out, at least to me.  Not sure how many #'s should be?  Only other thought was to try and put a piece of paper on there and use a pencil to do a shading, but not sure if that will help.

Tomorrow or Friday I'll try to take a pic from underneath looking into the inspection hole.


Edited by JFon101231 - 30 Dec 2015 at 10:05am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec 2015 at 6:33pm
Looked at the new pix, appears to be a D-15/I-600, series 2 gasser... The oval hole in the sheet metal goes with a series 2 (160cu in) motor.(that is if the motor hasn't been switched, at some point.  It should also have a modern type oil filter, not the old mayo jar style on the earlier tractors.

As far as the clutch goes, there should be a rod extending forward, to the fork that holds the throwout bearing and actuates the clutch.  There should be about a 3-4" hole, underneath the clutch, sometimes it still has a cover, that just pops off, to access the inspection hole.  Reach up, and feel how the bearing rolls, if it's gritty, or loose, it may need replacing.  the clutch rod threads into the TO fork, if it is stripped out, it will just drop out.  Can be jury rigged in several ways, but if the TO bearing is bad, split and replace all bad parts close by, as it's a big job to split a tractor with a loader and BH on it...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JFon101231 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec 2015 at 8:44am
I can read 160 on the motor tag, and yes it has a regular Fram oil filter on it I remember seeing.

I'll double check tomorrow (the inspection cover is gone), but almost 100% the rod goes forward but there is NO fork on the end there, and that the throwout bearing does not rotate.  

Have a buddy who has some knowledge of tractors and has split one before.  Thinking this will be a good spring project.  Four questions in the mean time:
1) Should we remove loader and/or BH to make split easier or thats more PITA than worth?
2) What should we be replacing besides fork, TO bearing and clutch?  Assuming all of those parts are readily available at AGCO... Confused
3) I haven't shifted gears yet, its still in 1st, but stupid question what exactly does the clutch do?  PO told me he shift gears at low idle and tractor stopped and "never had a problem".  Maybe hes full of **it and it is (at least quietly) grinding gears?  Like I said just got it home and haven't tried it yet. Or is clutch more so it could be done while in motion, i.e. start off in 1st get up to speed then engage foot clutch (and do what with shuttle?) and shift into 3rd?  It seems the shuttle shift is progressive and therefore doesn't stall, you just ease into it there similar to how a car manual would work...
4) Manuals for this thing - Is there an owner/operator manual available (i.e. to know how to use it)?  I've found this what appears to be a service manual, this one to get to cover "how to fix it" aspect? http://www.repairmanual.com/product/allis-chalmers-i60-i600-factory-service-manual-js-ac-s-i60-i600/

DiyDave - Thanks for being a 1-man info supplier here! This is all new to me so learning lots!


Edited by JFon101231 - 31 Dec 2015 at 8:46am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec 2015 at 6:26pm
1. the more weight you remove, the easier it is to move  the split halves.  However, with the hoe on, it's gonna be ass heavy, so it's a toss up...

2. Turn the flywheel to get rid of hot spots, check/replace rear main oil seal, front hyd compartment seal.  Install ceramic button type disc clutch.  Check wear on pressure plate, replace if nec.  Also check pilot bushing/bearing.

3. The clutch stops the tranny input completely.  The shuttle clutch, like the hi/low on ag tractors is an oil bath clutch, as such, it is subject to oil drag, particularly when cold. Tranny is not synchronized like a car's , so on the fly shifting is hit or miss.  Like all D-series, the gear that gets the most use,(usually 3rd) gets the most wear.  Take the tractor to a hilly area, and go down a sharply steep hill, and chop the throttle to nothing, and see if it pops itself outta 3rd. That indicates a lot of wear on that gear.  If it does it on flat ground, under the same conditions, it's REALLY wore.

4. I normally say go to agco, for manuals, but for I & C manuals, Agco is usually worthless.  I hit fairs and tractor pulls, and equipment shows, sometimes you get lucky and find a manual dealer (yes, there are such things).  Also EBAY sometimes will have one show up, occasionally.  An Agco manual for a D-15 (II) will cover everything except the shuttle clutch, and any additional optional equipment, might be a good place to start. Just clicked on your link, the cover looks like what the original manual looked like, and $36 +shipping isn't real far off the mark, check out how many pages it is, I think most of the originals were like 60-75 pages, IIRR.

5. don't take everything I say as gospel, I own a D-15(II), but there are things I have never done to mine.  Once you get into the split, post some pics on the construction page and ask again.  If you don't get any answers, post it to the farm equipment page, there's a higher volume of views there...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JFon101231 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan 2016 at 9:43am
OK, probably makes sense to make this the last post in this thread then I'll break out as needed.  Apologize for length here. Used the tractor a bit 2nd time yesterday and was, well a bit underwhelmed :(  As I said this was my first one, so I know some is still rookie operator. I should have brought a pad of paper to take notes, my memory is terrible for my age.

- Tractor loader has less power than I would expect - I had fully flipped bucket one way or the other and it wouldn't go back the opposite way until I did something with the loader arms, think I had to put them down? Not sure if issue was pressure too low, fluid low, or something else?
- Loader has less lifting power than seems it should IMO? Not sure if this is due to engine issues (lack of HP/TQ) or hydraulic pump issues.  I forgot what it is rated to lift but used it for its first intended purpose this week to put a plow into bed of a pickup (woohoo!!!) and plow was only 800lbs or so and I had to rev up the idle pretty high, is that normal?  I'll need to lift up to 1100lbs, absolute max 1200. I have a plow that weighs about 957lbs sitting in the driveway so need to find a few minutes before it gets too late at night to piss off neighbors and try that one.
- Previously, the hoe would drift down when sitting (ie. park it with it off the ground and in the morning teeth on bucket are now resting on ground) - PO had it chained up so that was "expected".  However it seems that now when I try to put the hoe down with controls (i.e. expand piston attached to back of tractor to push it towards horizontal rather than vertical) it bogs engine down but doesn't do anything.  Cylinder is inside the boom (wonderful for some other reason i'm sure) so I can't see whats going on but do see fluid running down.  I didn't check fluid levels, but *all* other functions on hoe (bucket curl/extend, and not sure what its called but the joint at the top of backhoe arm that works like tweezers to move bucket arm away from or closer to tractor LOL) work fine except for this, therefore impossible to dig a hole at this time.
- Tried to scoop out a hole in the yard with front bucket and wasn't overly successful scraping down more than a few inches but that is prob more lack of technique :) Can't remember for sure but seemed like it was making tractor sputter... 
Maybe engine needs some freshening as it did stall when loading onto GN trailer but that seemed carb related at the time b/c it wouldn't restart on that angle either.

On to the original requests.  
- Should check fluids in that oil bath you speak of, as it seems to make a clankering when first engaging but quiet when fully in forward or reverse.  Is it OK to use this to control speed, i.e. only push a little forward/backward while in 2nd can give you same speed as 1st, or will that wear things prematurely? Things are noisy enough in general its hard to tell good sounds from bad ones!
- I took some more pics through inspection hole and put in photobucket, honestly no idea what I'm looking at?  I was able to shift gears while stopped (engine running) and didn't hear a peep of grinding. With that said, I'm not sure what benefit I would gain with all the work of replacing clutch etc? Would it just provide a few more HP to run the hydraulics for loader?  Wouldn't seem to have any impact on BH since I obviously couldn't hold clutch in while turned around (I did note that the right rear wheel seems to meander forward/reverse while up on the outriggers, not sure if that's normal and from oil drag you speak of).
- Not sure what you mean by "I & C" manuals?  I did find some original looking manuals listed for i600 but for instance one showed i600 industrial tractor and other said like i600 loader tractor, and one mentioned above a certain serial # but I can't really decipher mine. Need to get something ASAP so I can do some things on my own at least as far as normal maintenance and start to self-diagnose instead of begging here LOL


Edited by JFon101231 - 04 Jan 2016 at 9:56am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan 2016 at 6:34pm
I&C short for industrial/commercial.  Those dealers no longer in existence after the Fiat buyout in the 80's.
Looked at pictures of the TO bearing, 4th or 5th one, it looks like the TO bearing is worn into the fingers of the pressure plate, so clutch is toast.
As for hydraulic power, you will need to find someone local, with a flow meter that can load the pump, while testing. Pump may be in the ag tractor is in the hydraulic compartment, under gas tank, front of transmission, it is actuated by a camshaft, running parallel to drive shaft to the tranny IIRR.  It may also have a pump up front, off the crankshaft... I can get you the specs for flow and GPM of the belly pump, as it could be the same one as the ag tractor uses(might be in construction manual you linked to).
As for the shuttle clutch, as I said before, never seen a hydraulic assisted one, like that appears to be, but on the manual ones, they are fine with repeated cycling, as when running a baler, you often use the hand clutch, to slow down when ingesting a slug of damp hay, then speeding up in the high range, when things get light.
I would get the AGCO manual for a series 2 D-15 gasser, or the manual, in the link, it looks OK to me. No matter what you get you can rest assured, that some things will be a mystery...

I'd order the manual, and if that has the specs for the hyd system, then flow test the system, then split for the clutch.  That way you can see if all the repairs it needs are within what you think is economical...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bgabriel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb 2016 at 1:32pm
Hope it is okay to ask this question since I also recently acquired a AC I600 1967 tractor. I'm working through changing all of the fluids in the tractor. I have the owners manual. Do have the technical manual on order from Steinertractors.com (in case that helps the other owner of this discussion).

Anyway, I'm planning to replace the shuttle clutch fluids, but the owners manual only indicates the quantity required. Since I have not drained anything yet, can any one tell me if this uses motor oil, trans fluid or something else?  What grade of fluid would be recommended? Thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb 2016 at 5:59pm
Universal hytran should work fine...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bgabriel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb 2016 at 9:03pm
I'd never heard of HyTran so had to do an internet search. One post talked about using Hy-Gard over HyTran as it is water resistant. Would you have any thoughts on that?  Thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb 2016 at 8:12am
I am using a MFA derivative of Hy-gard in my 7G, it is purple in color while is a 10W based high heat resistant fluid.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb 2016 at 8:35am
Originally posted by bgabriel bgabriel wrote:

I'd never heard of HyTran so had to do an internet search. One post talked about using Hy-Gard over HyTran as it is water resistant. Would you have any thoughts on that?  Thanks.


Hytran is an abbreviation for Universal Hydraulic Transmission Fluid.  I don't know how any oil based fluid can be "water resistant"? Water comes from outside the tranny by condensation or a leak in a  rubber boot etc, how the oil could resist this is something the add agency's would need to explain( and I doubt they could) Shocked
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bgabriel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 2016 at 11:01am
Where might I ask that you purchase the MFA derivative of Hy-gard?
Would there be an online site if you buy it from a local company that I don't have access to?  Thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 2016 at 2:18pm
Let me get the name and p/n off the 30gal barrel I have.  Any MFA concern should be able to get it.  May be a day or so.

Edited by DMiller - 16 Feb 2016 at 2:18pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Frank Dodson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2016 at 7:36pm
I don't know if may question relates to the post but here goes. I have an AC416S garden tractor with shuttle. The tractor is stuck in 2nd gear. It will go F/R in second and has good power. Any suggestions for repair will be appreciated.
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