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garden_guy 
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Location: Illinois
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 Topic: Finally rebuilding the front hubs on my WD...
Posted: 24 Apr 2024 at 8:30pm |
One last task this morning before taking the old gal out of commission for a bit, removing this old drag from the back of the shed.
Then got her backed in the shed, jacked up, wheels off, and then hubs off. Have one bearing that seems to be stuck on the spindle I need to go back out and work with. I got a bearing puller to try, cutting it is my last resort.
Have all the hub rebuild kits on hand, so taking this chance to grind and paint the inside of the rims and put some new rubber on since the old stuff is 40+ years old and weather cracked and leaky.
The one rim is much heavier than the other... Going to wire brush them both up, but hoping I don't find any holes in the rusty one, or I may grab a new rim for it (but man prices on those have definitely gone up over the past few years).
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SteveM C/IL
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Location: Shelbyville IL
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Posted: 24 Apr 2024 at 8:59pm |
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I would think a 4 lb hammer and a cold chisel would knock it off.
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wjohn
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Posted: 24 Apr 2024 at 11:44pm |
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How's the lower bearing for the vertical spindle shaft? My WD hub bearings were in good enough shape to reuse, but that big bearing supporting the bottom of the shaft was shot.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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IBWD MIke
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Posted: 25 Apr 2024 at 7:47am |
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Those rims look good. I've cleaned up and used rims that started out looking much worse than that!
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plummerscarin
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Posted: 25 Apr 2024 at 11:45am |
 IBWD MIke wrote:
Those rims look good. I've cleaned up and used rims that started out looking much worse than that!
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garden_guy
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Posted: 26 Apr 2024 at 5:21pm |
IBWD Mike & plummerscarin -- Yeah, I'm going to get after it with
the wire wheel on my angle grinder here soon and prime and paint it, I
think it'll be salvagable.
wjohn wrote:
How's the lower bearing for the vertical spindle shaft? My WD hub bearings were in good enough shape to reuse, but that big bearing supporting the bottom of the shaft was shot. |
Hmmm... The hub bearings were toast, but I didn't check the bottom shaft. Easy way to check it? Assume you have to take the bolt out of the bottom center and drop the whole thing, or do you take the top plate off?
SteveM C/IL wrote:
I would think a 4 lb hammer and a cold chisel would knock it off. |
That's another option on my list... Going to go back out this weekend and see if I can make any progress with that or my puller. Last option is cut it off I suppose.
Edited by garden_guy - 26 Apr 2024 at 5:21pm
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plummerscarin
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Posted: 26 Apr 2024 at 6:21pm |
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I've used a bearing separator on one. Another on a trailer axle was seized and I heated a section of the inner race and pried off with a screwdriver
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wjohn
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Posted: 27 Apr 2024 at 8:24am |
garden_guy wrote:
Hmmm... The hub bearings were toast, but I didn't check the bottom shaft. Easy way to check it? Assume you have to take the bolt out of the bottom center and drop the whole thing, or do you take the top plate off? |
I pulled mine out, but I'm thinking I noticed play between the shaft and the main casting. Try grabbing the lower part with the spindles/shaft and seeing if you can get any play between it and the main casting. Then you can also remove that bottom bolt and drop the spindle casting off the shaft, as you suspect. As I recall you would have to remove the top cover in order to get the shaft w/ gear out as it goes out the top. Maybe that won't be necessary if you don't have noticeable play.
On my WD the bearing was in terrible shape. I think it had been run loose for a long time. You can see the indentations in the bearing race and how much it had worn down into the spindle casting.
Sorry for giving you another "while you're in there..." item - but doesn't hurt to check and hopefully yours is okay.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Ted J
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Posted: 27 Apr 2024 at 8:42am |
Bill, you stated "Have all the hub rebuild kits on hand", where did you get the kits and what all is in them? Thanks
Your B'day is the day after mine!!
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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garden_guy
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Posted: 29 Apr 2024 at 8:15pm |
Went at the stuck bearing today with an angle grinder, 2 foot pipe wrench, and a 2 foot long chisel (tight quarters in there). Finally got the thing popped free after cutting the cage. I can definitely see why it was stuck...
Somebody definitely punched the spindle to get some extra bearing bite, to the point it almost seemed like it must have been a press fit or something (either that or the bearing egged out, too damaged in removal to tell the whole story probably).
wjohn wrote:
garden_guy wrote:
Hmmm... The hub bearings were toast, but I didn't check the bottom shaft. Easy way to check it? Assume you have to take the bolt out of the bottom center and drop the whole thing, or do you take the top plate off? |
I pulled mine out, but I'm thinking I noticed play between the shaft and the main casting. Try grabbing the lower part with the spindles/shaft and seeing if you can get any play between it and the main casting. Then you can also remove that bottom bolt and drop the spindle casting off the shaft, as you suspect. As I recall you would have to remove the top cover in order to get the shaft w/ gear out as it goes out the top. Maybe that won't be necessary if you don't have noticeable play.
On my WD the bearing was in terrible shape. I think it had been run loose for a long time. You can see the indentations in the bearing race and how much it had worn down into the spindle casting.
Sorry for giving you another "while you're in there..." item - but doesn't hurt to check and hopefully yours is okay. |
Well, I didn't unbolt it to take it apart due to working on the bearing removal today... But I did let the front jack down to see what kind of play I've got. There's definitely some "turning" wiggle to it, and there's definitely some vertical wiggle to it (you can see when I let the jack down how much the assembly "dropped" down).
So... I am assuming at a minimum that bearing in mine must literally be toast, unless something else lets that wiggle up and down like that (the set screw in the front not being able to sit tight?). If I don't get to it this spring, I'll have to put it on my list to tackle this winter... Been spraying the top cover bolts with penetrating oil in preparation to take them off to see what kind of wear or damage I've got inside.
Do you have a number on the bearing/race you replaced it with? I hear they've switched to a tapered roller bearing from a barrel style if you contact AGCO?
Ted J wrote:
Bill, you stated "Have all the hub rebuild kits on hand", where did you get the kits and what all is in them? Thanks
Your B'day is the day after mine!!
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I picked up these rebuild kits from DJs a few years ago (I got 4 kits, used 2 on the other WD back in like 2019). Each kit has a new inner bearing and race, outer bearing and race, a felt seal, the big seal washer, and a big cupped washer. Hey, happy birthday to both of us soon!
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wjohn
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Posted: 29 Apr 2024 at 11:07pm |
Dang, someone went crazy dimpling that. I'd probably knock that down a little and use some of the green press fit bearing Loctite, but I don't have the decades of experience with these tractors that some of the other guys on here do so I'd defer to them.
On the bearing for the vertical shaft, I think mine had either locked up (race to cone) or had developed so much slop that the cone inner race had worn down into the top of the lower casting because it was what was rotating instead of the bearing (see below). It had a ton of play before I redid it. I don't have the bearing numbers handy but can look tomorrow. You are correct they subbed it back to a tapered bearing. As I recall like almost all the other bearings I bought, AGCO was priced just as cheap if not cheaper than any other name brand bearing suppliers. You could probably find no-name Chinese bearings for cheaper if you want to take that gamble.
There are also some shims down there, so if you're lucky maybe that will do the trick. Mine was too far gone.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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wjohn
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Posted: 29 Apr 2024 at 11:16pm |
Almost forgot - my vertical shaft was also worn where the bearing rode on it (more evidence that the bearing was locked up). I welded this back up and used a flapper disk in an angle grinder to smooth it out to about the original diameter of the shaft. Ideally you'd have a lathe but I figured for very low speed as long as you have a good fit between the shaft and bearing it will probably last forever. Couldn't be any worse than putting it back together without building up the groove at all.
Again, hopefully yours isn't this bad... But even if it is, it can be fixed.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 29 Apr 2024 at 11:18pm |
I'd try to measure that spindle to see if it's way undersize or what. Cone should just slip on without being tight...just like any spindle brg. If way off just replace whole thing. Lonn MN probably has a good one worth the money. If it's not off by much peen the cut marks down and maybe a little filing to get the new cone to slide on. Can't tell in pic if bottom side is worn off from stuck/spinning inner race. It's not meant to be a press fit.
Dad replaced a lot of those vertical shafts. They get worn at brg and bottom keyway would be worn making sideways play. His brother-in-law was a machinest at Blaw Knox and made them on the side.
Edited by SteveM C/IL - 29 Apr 2024 at 11:25pm
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garden_guy
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Posted: 01 May 2024 at 10:08pm |
Great stuff here, thanks guys! Going to try and take the rest of the front pedestal apart this weekend. Will try and take the top cover off, unbolt the bottom and take that assembly out, and pull the spindle out of the top... I don't have to disconnect the steering or anything right, I can take it apart as is? Or do I need to remove the front crank? Can't tell if I need to punch or pull any other items to pull it all apart.
Posted a few questions on facebook and I see that A&W tractor sells several pieces I may need here. I'll probably buy a bunch here soon... How exactly do the spindle shims work? Do I need to add or remove shims to try and get it "tight" for that bottom bolt?
224908 -- bearing cone 224909 -- bearing race 238028 -- narrow front spindle bearing shim (.005)
205932 -- narrow front spindle shaft washer shim (.025) 202101 -- cork seal (lower) 202102 -- cork seal (upper)
I also saw a "212916 -- spindle seal kit" but not sure what all is in this? looks like the two seals below and a flat washer and a cupped washer, but don't see where that is used on the vertical spindle in my setup...
I do have a caliper to check the spindle dimensions so I'll have to check that this weekend. I'll measure it and maybe can emory cloth the top if it isn't too far out of spec so I can just get a slip fit of the new bearing. I think somebody just got over-zealous with the punch... May have to see if I can get the vertical shaft out if it can be welded up for a worn keyway or like wjohn had with the bearing inner spinning on the shaft instead.
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