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JamieH 
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Joined: 12 Mar 2018
Location: Fl
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 Topic: Hd5 purchase orig owner thoughts & questions
Posted: 12 Mar 2018 at 4:36am |
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New to the site...thank you for allowing me to be a part of it...I just purchased this unit from the original owner family. It was bought new and had never left the farm/ranch as he said. What I know (I think I know)...he said it's either a 54 or 55 model year hd5, has a baker blade set up and he said it has a root rake for it as well. It hasn't been started in 8 yrs and the left steering clutch lever has no tension (the right side seemed to be fine)when pulled back and he said it was being operated while this happened and parked since. He said everything was original on it but it did have an alt. on it which I don't believe to be orignal (not a big deal) it had the 2-71 detroit which seemed to be stuck but was able to rotate it a SMALL bit. I noticed the exhaust stack wasnt covered and looked down it to no surprise had water in it. I paid 500 for it thinking worse case have to put new cyl. liners in it. Any one have any thoughts on the best way to revive the old 2-71 before a complete tear down should happen and thoughts on the left steering clutch...I'm not a equipment mechanic but have been in the automotive side for 20 plus years...looking for advice and thoughts a and parts supply...a lot of parts...I will send pics when I get them
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gemdozer
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Posted: 12 Mar 2018 at 5:23am |
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If you can rotate a small bit he is't stuck you can removed the motor side plate and used some wd40 on side sleeve it could help and if I can help am still have some parts for HD5
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LeonR2013
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Posted: 12 Mar 2018 at 5:57am |
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Gemdozer has been working with the HD5 for quite some time now and should be a big help for you with parts and advice. While I owned one at one time I didn't have to do a lot of work on it as it was mechanically very sound and just didn't give me any trouble. I did have to rebuild the undercarriage but that doesn't require a masters degree to do. It's hard to believe that someone would let it set with no cover over the exhaust. When you get it ready to start make sure you have a big ball of rags at your finger tips to stuff in the intake in case it runs away. Look on you tube to see it happen. Find out as soon as you can what you will have to do to it as far as parts are concerned. While some are available new you mostly will have to settle for used, so you need to start looking now. Hope you can get it going soon. Leon
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JamieH
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Posted: 12 Mar 2018 at 6:32am |
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Good advice thank you...I'm not a diesel mechanic so that's good info to know but I have heard that those old Detroit's are a die hard motor. I'm like you Leon, why would you not have it covered, the older gentleman did tell me he was retiring and everything is being sold or scraped so he may not had cared. He told me he remembered when his dad bought it and brought it home...it just seems for something to be 60+ yrs in the family you would still have a sense of wanting to care for it...I love old equipment and enjoy the family rich stories that go with them. I gonna try today and see if I can get a few things inline for it to be started...it's been asleep for a while and want to wake it peacefully and properly...so if it starts screaming, that's when I start choking huh...lol...wish me luck
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DMiller
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Location: Hermann, Mo
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Posted: 12 Mar 2018 at 6:35am |
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If has been watered for any period of time drag it out of the machine and tear it apart. Could have stuck valves, injector plungers, the rack will undoubtedly be locked in place, be a good time to freshen up an old engine and Inspect EVERYTHING before set off the grenade and ruin everything. Too easy to strip it down and too cheap to fully overhaul a 2/71.
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DMiller
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Posted: 12 Mar 2018 at 6:39am |
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As to replacing sleeves, these engines REQUIRE a snug slip fit, not a drop in and bounce or drive in but a Snug Slip fit or they will fail. Get a good 71 series engine manual if do decide to open it up and rebuild it. Sleeves/piston/rod assemblies are designed to install as a unit in these also.
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gemdozer
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Posted: 12 Mar 2018 at 7:04am |
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You could check too the blower by removing the intake
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JamieH
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Posted: 12 Mar 2018 at 7:51am |
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I am a firm believer in manuals but I am new to this equipment and not sure of the resources to find QUALITY manuals. I did look on ebay but unsure about what I was buying...there is a difference between a maintenance manual and a service manual. I see ads with manuals on various sites just not sure anyone have any suggestions? also something I noticed is some models are refered to as hd5 "G" or some other letter to designate a model. can someone please elaborate a bit on that. i really appreciate all the responses everyone has given me...thank you
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CAL(KS)
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Location: Chapman, KS
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Posted: 12 Mar 2018 at 7:59am |
5G designates loader machine instead of dozer. nice thing about the Detroit machines its parts are still readily available. that's engines not whole machines
Edited by CAL(KS) - 12 Mar 2018 at 8:15am
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Coke-in-MN
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Posted: 12 Mar 2018 at 8:03am |
Not a problem in Florida but one i bought was locked up - water got into blower housing and froze , broke one lobe off blower, locking engine . Until you start removing parts you will not know what is wrong - the manual for the machine has a complete guide to both machine and engine . Sleeves are held in place by contact with head as well as snug fit to bore of block - they protrude from block deck about .005 and adjusted by shimming sleeve to deck spacing .
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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LeonR2013
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Posted: 19 Mar 2018 at 9:55pm |
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Kind of a funny story about a 671 in a mobile home toter. The driver told me he arrived in Denver with the mobile home and noticed he had a fairly serious oil leak. So he called back home and the boss said to watch the oil level and bring it back home to Hutchinson to repair, and that's what he did. The next day or so the mechanic called him to the back and showed him the oil pan and it had a bolt sticking out of the bottom of the pan. Where did it come from? Hard to believe but it was a connecting rod bolt. He said they checked the bearing, put in two new bolts and buttoned it back up. Ran as good as it ever did.
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Dozer
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Posted: 20 Mar 2018 at 6:27am |
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My post "Like I Need Another Project" is on the top of page 10 of this forum.
My HD5 was stored without the exhaust pipe covered. There is a picture of the water in the cylinder. If I had rotated the motor it would have done more damage. Your first step is to remove the cylinder head. The next step is to pre oil the motor. Rotating a Detroit Diesel is easy because a lever can be placed in the openings in the crankshaft pulley.
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JamieH
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Posted: 22 Mar 2018 at 12:01pm |
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thanks dozer...great article. I read where someone said that metal rescue was decent. I wonder if anyone has used it for this situation and how successful it was. I figured if I am looking at new liners and pistons (and god knows what else...lol) what's the risk if I am gonna rebuild it anyhow. but yes I am planning on pulling the head and giving an assessment and cleaning the head up and injectors and make sure things are at their best of what they can be at giving their current situation if its horribly bad then I already have the head off and on my way
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jerbob
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Posted: 22 Mar 2018 at 2:15pm |
 JamieH wrote:
thanks dozer...great article. I read where someone said that metal rescue was decent. I wonder if anyone has used it for this situation and how successful it was. I figured if I am looking at new liners and pistons (and god knows what else...lol) what's the risk if I am gonna rebuild it anyhow. but yes I am planning on pulling the head and giving an assessment and cleaning the head up and injectors and make sure things are at their best of what they can be at giving their current situation if its horribly bad then I already have the head off and on my way |
I have used Metal Rescue and it is a great product. I keep 5 gallon pail around always. Have not used it this type of situation but have used it for engine parts on both an Oliver and Bobcat Skidsteer and they really cleaned up nice after a good soak and then wire wheel cleaning. Good luck on your project.
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dadsdozerhd5b
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Posted: 25 Mar 2018 at 7:36pm |
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after reading the entire thread I would bet your biggest issue is a stuck blower. if the pistons were stuck you would not be able to turn it at all. they are easy and inexpensive to repair. you might be able to find a good runner especially if you are near a large port as the 2-71 were used on a lot of boat generators.
as far as the steering clutch I would bet the throwout bearing on that side went bad. they are still available at steeringclutches.com. if it has been sitting the steering clutches are most likely frozen and would have to come out anyway. not a bad job if the clutches are not frozen into the drum. Fuel tank has to come off to access the steering clutch compartments. I have a hd5b with the baker blade and I just got done restoring it and I just love the machine. easy to operate, easy on fuel, easy to work on. good luck!
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HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.
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JamieH
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Posted: 25 Mar 2018 at 8:10pm |
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what I did find on the steering clutches is that the bushing in the linkages just above is gone/missing. so I'm sure that's 80% of my problem...the right side steering clutch seems to function fine. the pull has tension from about 3" from the beginning of the pull and has spring tension as you let go, as well as the engine clutch. so I'm hopefull but doubtful. as for the blower I thought about trying to remove it and check it out. do you have to remove the front engine cover to take it off the engine. I'm gonna try to soak the pistons and see it will come loose but have all intensions to rebuild it. just having issues making sure of the right numbers from the engine as to ordering the correct parts. one would think a 2-71 there wouldn't be to many variations. do you have any pics of your completed or work during hd5. I would like to post but having issues try to figure out how to upload them...the file size is to big and not sure how to make them smaller(not very tech savy), but if you give me a wrench...lol
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JohnCO
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Posted: 25 Mar 2018 at 11:40pm |
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Don't use the wrench on the camera!
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"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
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gemdozer
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Posted: 26 Mar 2018 at 5:17am |
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You do't need to removed the motor front cover for removing the blower
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JamieH
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Posted: 27 Mar 2018 at 12:31pm |
John that takes all the fun out. that just sets the stage for another project. to fix the things you broke while fixing other broke things.
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JamieH
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Posted: 09 Apr 2018 at 11:48pm |
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Well I had finally got a chance to get into it...don't remember if it was this post but someone said to check the blower...and sure enough it had ALOT of water in it. So with it being off I'm able to clean up the ports and other areas along with the blower. The blower itself didn't have much oil in the with the rotors making me believe the seals were decent when it was shut off...not for saying much for now or what will be...but i feel it will be well enough for now to run. The engine spins over well also. I think my hassle now will be the injectors and getting them unclogged. I pulled one apart to clean it but i didn't see much to have any concern in the way of water or rust... just couldn't produce a good spray or mist when I tapped the plunger. I may just soak the other in some solvent and see what results it will produce. Im sure some are saying to just rebuild now but considering the circumstance and how things do appear i feel the chances to make it run well are really good and do have full intention to do so at another point. I bought this to work on a piece of property for a short period of time and just need it to do that...i need about one weeks worth of use from it then i can tear it down completely and refurb it. Feeling optimistic about it. Just need to cross reference all the filters to good numbers now and hopefully next weekend it will be going
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LeonR2013
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Posted: 12 Apr 2018 at 10:18pm |
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One thing you need to do is, when you start it, start on an idle or drop the RPM as quick as you can, until oil pressure comes up. Then you can add some RPM to it.
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Dozer
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Posted: 13 Apr 2018 at 7:22am |
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The motor can be pre-oiled before starting. If you have the oil pan off remove the oil pump and pump oil directly into the oil passage. I have the fittings that bolt on ware the oil pump was. Another method is to pump oil into the oil pressure gage line. I use a porta power pump filed with motor oil.
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