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24 volt ammeter

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Jim.ME View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim.ME Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2018 at 8:24am
I believe you said earlier you already have 24 volt headlights. I would use the same source your current head lights use. Such as if the headlights use a wire coming from the ammeter to the headlight switch, install a new wire from the same terminal on the ammeter to your new switch, which could be mounted near the current head light switch, then run a wire from the switch to your new rear lights. Or you might be able to run a jumper from the power terminal of your current head light switch to your new rear light switch. Install a fuse somewhere in the circuit, near the power source is best. This is personal preference: I would keep the switches near each other; not run an odd power wire to a switch mounted remotely, like by the rear lights, less chance of it getting left on. Some equipment ties the rear lights with the head lights to the same switch, all on at once. Another option: you might change your current switch to a multi position switch, like a universal head light switch. Connect the head lights to the tail light terminal and the rear lights to the head light terminal. Pull to first step for head lights, pull to the second step and you have both head and rear lights.
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CAL(KS) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2018 at 8:36am
jerbob
 
I believe the dash switch is for aux lights.  1 is for dash lights other is spare for lighting
 
ok.  im wrong.  I could have sworn there are 2 switches but only 1 on my machine and only 1 in parts book and it shows all lights hooked to it.


Edited by CAL(KS) - 27 Feb 2018 at 8:43am
Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2018 at 8:39am
A RESISTOR will not make a 12v radio work on 24 volts. To make a 12v radio work on 24 volts requires either a DC-DC converter of sufficient current rating, or just tap across the first battery.

Imbalance across the batteries in this application is not a substantial concern- the load, in comparison to the batteries' capacity, is very small. If it's the cab-heater blower fan, that's a different story.

As for ammeter, there's no 'voltage' associated with the ammeter's design, only for the illumination of the gauge. If it has a 12v incandescent lamp, just buy a 24v incandescent lamp to fit the same socket (typically they plug into the back), and call it good. Or use an LED that's rated for 9-36v.

As for floodlamps, if you're not needing 'authenticity', then look into LED floodlighting. All the units I've been putting on my machines will operate fine over a very wide range... most are rated to over 28v, and will light up on a 9v battery too...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2018 at 8:43am
Originally posted by CAL(KS) CAL(KS) wrote:


jerbob
 
I believe the dash switch is for aux lights.  1 is for dash lights other is spare for lighting



I didn't know know that Cal. i will check that out. My 16 dash switch is the stock unit. Turns left or right and a center position which i assume is off. Manual does not say anything about it but I plan on going over all that when I replaces gauges.

Thank you
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2018 at 8:44am
Originally posted by Jim.ME Jim.ME wrote:

I believe you said earlier you already have 24 volt headlights. I would use the same source your current head lights use. Such as if the headlights use a wire coming from the ammeter to the headlight switch, install a new wire from the same terminal on the ammeter to your new switch, which could be mounted near the current head light switch, then run a wire from the switch to your new rear lights. Or you might be able to run a jumper from the power terminal of your current head light switch to your new rear light switch. Install a fuse somewhere in the circuit, near the power source is best. This is personal preference: I would keep the switches near each other; not run an odd power wire to a switch mounted remotely, like by the rear lights, less chance of it getting left on. Some equipment ties the rear lights with the head lights to the same switch, all on at once. Another option: you might change your current switch to a multi position switch, like a universal head light switch. Connect the head lights to the tail light terminal and the rear lights to the head light terminal. Pull to first step for head lights, pull to the second step and you have both head and rear lights.


Based on what you are saying, I think it makes most sense to just tie into current headlights so when one is on all are on. Thank you.
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CAL(KS) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2018 at 8:45am
I edited my post.  only 1 switch.
Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2018 at 8:47am
Originally posted by DaveKamp DaveKamp wrote:

A RESISTOR will not make a 12v radio work on 24 volts. To make a 12v radio work on 24 volts requires either a DC-DC converter of sufficient current rating, or just tap across the first battery.

Imbalance across the batteries in this application is not a substantial concern- the load, in comparison to the batteries' capacity, is very small. If it's the cab-heater blower fan, that's a different story.

As for ammeter, there's no 'voltage' associated with the ammeter's design, only for the illumination of the gauge. If it has a 12v incandescent lamp, just buy a 24v incandescent lamp to fit the same socket (typically they plug into the back), and call it good. Or use an LED that's rated for 9-36v.

As for floodlamps, if you're not needing 'authenticity', then look into LED floodlighting. All the units I've been putting on my machines will operate fine over a very wide range... most are rated to over 28v, and will light up on a 9v battery too...


Good thoughts Dave and thank you. I will admit that I hadn't thought of replacing the 12v light bulb with a 24volt one. That would be great for the added illumination.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jim.ME Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2018 at 10:25am
Here is a chart that may help you. It shows comparable style miniature lamps by voltage so you can get the number from the bulb that was with your ammeter and see if there is a bulb of the same style to match in a different voltage. Then you will have a bulb number to give your parts store. Wagner_bulb_interchange_reference.pdf
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jerbob View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2018 at 10:37am
Thank you Jim. Handy and now in my archive of tables and saved data.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2018 at 11:00am
re:
A RESISTOR will not make a 12v radio work on 24 volts

um, it will, providing it's the correct value for the current drawn. Not really any different than using a ballast resistor on a tractor to 'cut down' 12 volts to power a 6 volt coil.

The easy nobrainer solution is to use a 24 to 12 volt stepdown 'module' with sufficient current capacity for the radio. It's actually got some 'semiconductors' in it to regulate 24 down to 12, cost maybe $10-15.

The real problem is the POSITIVE ground ! Bet there aren't too many radios made for that,and while you could isolate the case from ground, the antenna IS grounded , so POOF..lots of magic black smoke will appear.
Have to ask why not convert to NEGATIVE ground? That would get rid of 99% of the problems. Flash the genny, flip + to -, - to + on the ammeter wires.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2018 at 2:49pm
I would agree , changing to a NEGATIVE ground makes things easier to add new equipment......... on the other hand, I don't think he ever mentioned adding a radio.. That was just part of the conversation.. POSITIVE ground is fine for the old tractor with new lights......... If your adding an alternator,  radio or "other" it might be best to convert to negative ground at that time to avoid problems.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2018 at 2:57pm
And starters do not care either way.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2018 at 4:00pm
Correct Everyone.

I jumped in on the original post to ask a question regarding adding 12 volt lights to my 24volt 16. At the time I had a couple of nice 12volt lights and thought I would use them. I never brought up the radio think, but for giggles, I do use radio ear muffs for protection and even with them on, hard to hear any music when my 16 is barking. Wanted to thank all the ides and suggestions as it gave me insight as to future work in the wiring department.

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