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Roto baler question

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playsindirt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote playsindirt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Roto baler question
    Posted: 28 Jul 2015 at 6:10am
I just brought a 1973 white top roto baler, it is 60 miles away and I was going to tow it home. I would like to know if it has wheel bushings or wheel bearings. It did not find a zerk fitting, my all crop has a zerk. Thank you.
48G 49B 67D15 35picker allcrop60 1973 rotobaler 49C
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Bill Long View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Long Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jul 2015 at 6:44am
The bailer has bushings.  It should have a fitting on the wheels. 
We towed a lot of them.  Stopped every 10 miles or so and greased the wheels.  No Problem.
Be sure to put the bailer draw bar in the tow position.  Makes it narrower when towing.
Let us know how it goes.
By the way, hope you get a manual with it.  There are several critical adjustments that must be made for good operation.  The manual with list them.
Keep the knife sharp to cut the twine.
Good Luck!
Bill Long
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Ray View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ray Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jul 2015 at 6:52am
The white top would have wheel bearing. The later all crops would have wheel bearing.
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jul 2015 at 7:09am
If it is a white top, it should have bearings.     MACK
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JayIN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JayIN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jul 2015 at 7:22am
Be certain that you use BINDER twine, NOT baler twine.
sometimes I walk out to my shop and look around and think "Who's the idiot that owns this place?"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote elbyCJett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jul 2015 at 2:16pm
I just bought 1 bale of binder twine on line from kats safety.  $ 105.70 with shipping.
D-14, 160, 2 - CAs, 2 - Bs, 2 Gs Roto-Baler, 82S Mower, Rake,444 baler, Kentucky
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Creek Jenkins Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jul 2015 at 3:46pm
Jett how much is in a bale?  I am having trouble getting mine to stop tying the bale so I am going thru some serious twine.  I bought 4 balls of Diamond "Roto Baler" twine but just getting the baler set up is putting a dent in my supply.  

I looked at the RotoBalers at Hutch and most of them had the tension disc spring set way tighter than mine, so I'm going to try that next.
cheers,
Creek
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jul 2015 at 6:06pm
Originally posted by Creek Jenkins Creek Jenkins wrote:

Jett how much is in a bale?  I am having trouble getting mine to stop tying the bale so I am going thru some serious twine.  I bought 4 balls of Diamond "Roto Baler" twine but just getting the baler set up is putting a dent in my supply.  

I looked at the RotoBalers at Hutch and most of them had the tension disc spring set way tighter than mine, so I'm going to try that next.
cheers,
Creek

Make sure the twine knife is sharp, too
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Creek Jenkins View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Creek Jenkins Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jul 2015 at 10:03pm
The knife is sharp, the twine is cutting okay. For some reason the arm comes down, wraps the bale, goes back up, cuts the twine, but doesn't latch - the arm latch is not in position. The bale discharges, then the twine arm sends another shot of twine through the rollers, swings back up cuts the twine and latches. So it seems like the discharge is causing the latch to move into position. I'm thinking the tension disc is not tight enough, so I'm going to try tightening it some more. The threads on the tension disc adjustment stud are a bit screwed up so I might have to clean them up as there there's not much to hang onto when tightening the nut.
Cheers,
Creek
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jul 2015 at 10:18pm
Give it a good oiling with half oil and half diesel fuel. The twine arm latch will not come back out until the bale is out.   MACK
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bdallman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bdallman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jul 2015 at 8:35am
I don't think your tension disc would be causing that. When I first got mine going it would do a similar thing with the twine tube latch no latching all the time.. Until I figured out it was missing a spring that snapped the twine tube match back Into hold position. I put the spring on and now it works every time!


Brett
1954 CA, 1952 WD with Freeman Loader,1955 WD45, 1963 D19 Gas, 1984 620H, 1980’s AC Forklift, 66 All Crop Harvester, White Top Roto Baler, Misc S.C. Equip and AC Collectibles.
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Creek Jenkins View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Creek Jenkins Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jul 2015 at 1:16pm
I think Mack might be on the right track.  The twine arm drops down, wraps the bale, moves up and cuts the twine, but the bale hasn't discharged, so the latch isn't in place.
It drops again, the bale discharges, it sends a length of twine thru the rollers, cuts it, then latches.
I have all the springs in place and they are all in pretty good shape.  
I've got to get it to discharge on the first twine wrap.  Also the last couple tries the conveyor didn't stop..........lotsa moving parts, I'll figure it out.  Hopefully before I run out of small squares to break up and rebale.
cheers,
Creek
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