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WD45 VALVE ADJUSTMENT

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TBH64 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TBH64 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: WD45 VALVE ADJUSTMENT
    Posted: 17 Feb 2010 at 8:52pm

My first time rebuilding a WD45 and I need to adjust the valve gap. The manual gives me the gap "hot" but how do you do an initial adjustment cold? Then do I run the engine with the valve cover off or on to reset the gap hot? Can someone give me a step by step procedure on how to do this? Thanks.

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mlpankey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb 2010 at 9:07pm
just adjust them to .014 cold you will be fine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote firebrick43 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb 2010 at 9:37pm
Take the valve cover off, and turn the engine over slowly(I like to take the spark plugs out and grab hold of the fan belt and pull up to turn the engine over.  Watch the valves and see which ones are being activated as you see the push rod go up and then down and stop movement adjust that valve.  Use the hot setting just to get close, tightening the screw until you feel a slight drag on the feeler gauge.  Holding the center screw tighten the lock nut and move on to the next valve.  Mark each rocker arm in some fashion so you don't miss one.  It will take at least two full revolutions to complete this task.  Set the valve cover back(contain mess), install the plugs, and fire it up.  Don't rev it or anything, just run it till it gets in the green on the gauge.  Remove valve cover and plugs(plugs removal just makes turning the engine over easy) and repeat.  Button it back up, put the hood back on and have fun

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Denis in MI View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Denis in MI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb 2010 at 10:39pm
you could adjust them with the engine running, I never tried it but saw it in a AC promotional video one time.
1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14
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Charlie (NC) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Charlie (NC) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb 2010 at 5:26am
I think Firebricks got it right.  Just wear an old shirt when you adjust it running.  You'll figure out why.
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Chuck(ONT) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chuck(ONT) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb 2010 at 6:37am
I used to do my 56 Mercury with the engine running. What's the problem.
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb 2010 at 6:46am
After you run it for an hr or two, retorque the head bolts the next morning (cold) and adjust all the valves to .015" COLD.
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Charlie (NC) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Charlie (NC) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb 2010 at 7:55am
Every Allis engine I've ever adjusted the valves on was very good at slinging droplets of oil in an arc about 3 feet above and to the sides of the tractor.  Lot's of flow into the upper end of those engines and the rocker arms do a good job of slinging it.  Your mileage may vary.
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TBH64 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TBH64 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb 2010 at 12:24pm
Ok, Thanks guys. I adjusted them to .015 cold but I have not tried to start it yet. I just wanted to make sure that I had to put the valve cover on first then run it. This thing hasn't been run in over fifteen years so there was a lot I needed to do to it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb 2010 at 5:38pm
If you haven't done it already, replace the freeze plugs in top of the head. It's not good to have one spring a leak after doing a bunch of other work on the engine.
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx,1938 B2xx, 1950 WD, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TBH64 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 2010 at 12:43pm
I had that done when the head was rebuilt. Thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 2010 at 12:47pm
When I did my Oliver 60, (very similar engine design) the fan was the main problem blowing the oil all over, not so much the rockers slinging it around.
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