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Engine internal rust removal?

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VFDfireman View Drop Down
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    Posted: 26 Nov 2013 at 9:59pm
hi all, first time post, long time lurker.

I have two wd-45's that I'm trying to make into one good.

In both cases I'm dealing with a boat load of rust in or on engine components.

In both cases the engine blocks need to have internal cooling jackets cleaned. The heads need it as well.

What have you guys done in these cases?

I have used the evapo rust on smaller parts, and it worked well. I was considering setting up a 5 gallon bath system and then rotating the parts as best as I can.

http://www.evaporust.com/

Any less expensive options?
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SteveC(NS) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveC(NS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2013 at 6:34am
Bump
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Dave H View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2013 at 6:37am
Consider an electrolysis tank of the stock watering size.

no hands on experience since i have not tried dropping an engine block in mine.
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2013 at 6:49am
I'm not there looking at your problem but, I'd guess you're too concerned about rust in the cooling system area of the block. Scrape anything you can with a putty knife or screwdriver. Power wash out the rest of the block. Wire brush the lower area where the Orings seal the sleeve and wire brush the top deck area where the sleeve is supported. Done.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2013 at 7:06am
I used a 55 gallon plastic drum and my battery charger. http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
It did a real good job but you still want to clean up with a wire wheel around the contact points of the sleeve.
 I had a block baked and shot peened once and this one came out almost as clean.
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx,1938 B2xx, 1950 WD, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Allis dave View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2013 at 7:19am
You could have the block hot tanked.
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Don(MO) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2013 at 7:54am
It's hard to get 50 + years of farm pond water out of old engines. 
I don't have the time it takes to use the electrolysis on all cooling system parts, I do like Dr Allis said then hot tank and use water in the engine for run in, get it warmed up I then drain and install a 50/50 mix you will get most of the left over crap out that will come out. 
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

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injpumpEd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2013 at 9:31am
What if you slathered naval jelly all around inside, then took to a machine shop to boil after cleaning the naval jelly so not to contaminate his hot tank?
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BearHollowBob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2013 at 6:10pm
may want to consider a soak in cleaning strength vinegar available in gallons at most walmarts Hienz brand. Followed by a boil to stop the reaction. I clean everything with this process and old crusted rusty iron comes out looking like new. 
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Steve in NJ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2013 at 6:44pm
The only way I know how to get a block spic n' span is bring it to a machine shop and have it hot tanked. Hot tanking get all the crud out, and what remains, the pressure washer will remove. I've had some pretty nasty looking engines inside n' out, and they came out pretty nice when I got em' back from the machine shop...
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'IB, 49'G, 49'WF, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 620, & a Motorhead wife
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimNearFortWorth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2013 at 8:48pm
Along the lines of this thread, what has anyone used to clean/flush running engines that works. See plenty of the "treatments" on the parts store shelf and have an old D15 that could sure use a good flushing.
Brands that are good that anyone has used?
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VFDfireman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote VFDfireman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2013 at 8:51pm
Thanks for the replies!

Yes my concerns are about rust in the areas that I cannot easily get to. In some cases the rust is so badly flaked in the head that I'm not so sure the head is any good.

Fortunately I have a lick tub that holds the block quite nicely that I had planned on bathing the block and head in solution of simple green and water heated up for degreasing. I could use the same tub for electrolysis.

I may also just do what Dr all is suggested.

Good to know all is not lost. Once I figure out posting pictures I'll post some.

Thx
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VFDfireman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote VFDfireman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2013 at 9:01pm
The flush listed on the evapo rust site I posted earlier works pretty good. I'd use it but my tractors don't run at the moment.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote m16ty Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov 2013 at 9:57pm
As stated above, the easiest and best way is to have it dipped in a hot tank.

 I don't see why electrolysis wouldn't work though. You probably need a anode dropped down each hole with the sleeves removed to get all the rust out of the water jacket.
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