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OT How to kill a mulberry tree

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DennisA (IL) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DennisA (IL) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: OT How to kill a mulberry tree
    Posted: 03 Sep 2012 at 9:58pm
How to kill a mulberry tree, we have hundreds to clean out. We have been cutting them down for the last 2 weeks and I see that there sending up new sprouts.
Thanks & God Bless

Dennis
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Iowa Farmer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Iowa Farmer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Sep 2012 at 10:00pm
Dow makes a product in a squirt bottle called Tordon. It is a ready to use formulation and requires no mixing. Just treat this on the stump and tillers after cutting.
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dustinmo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dustinmo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Sep 2012 at 10:01pm
I dont think you can  have been cutting down a couple for years and they just wont die, Try pouring salt on the stump thats right regular table salt and dont be stingy as it is really cheap
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Gerald J. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Sep 2012 at 10:13pm
4 pound glyphosate directly on the freshly cut stump, not the next day. Not diluted.

Tordon is another as is Crossbow. All three work best when applied while the stump is bleeding.

Gerald J.


Edited by Gerald J. - 03 Sep 2012 at 10:15pm
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omahagreg View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote omahagreg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 6:26am
I was told by a tree company, drill multiple 1/4" holes as deep as possible, in the stump. As stated already, apply table salt. Stump will rot away within a year!
Greg Kroeker
1950 WD with wide front and Freeman trip loader
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bently View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bently Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 7:06am
Get a two and a half gallon jug of garlon with the blue dye and a cheap hand sprayer. It's a selective herbicide unlike tordon that kills everthing. Garlon wil do the job and it goes a long way. Just spray the cambium layer and the bark on the stump and they will be stone cold dead. Used it for fifteen years when I did line clearance. 20% is good enough to kill most trees. Walnuts and elms are resistant to it, but it'll get them too if you use enough. Garlon breaks down quickly whereas Tordon stays in the ground for quite a while and is non selective. Tordon is what they use at substatiions and that is why nothing will grow there.
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bently View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bently Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 7:11am
Forgot to say I did line clearance for fifteen years. Garlon is for broadleafs whereas Tordon will kill grass and everything else. I sprayed it for the entire time I did line clearance with no ill affects on me.
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Henry se/k! View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Henry se/k! Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 9:39am
Do you know that a mulberry tree is tougher than steel. If you don't thimk so, drop your corn ptanter marker in a small mulberry tree and see what happends
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Brian F(IL) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian F(IL) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 10:26am
Dennis,
Go with the Tordon.  You won't be disappointed.
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CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 10:29am
Tordon works great. All you need to do is put a coating on the growth ring just inside the bark and it's dead. 
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx,1938 B2xx, 1950 WD, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lars(wisc) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 10:33am
depending on the size of the trunk, saw it off flush with the ground and them mow over it every time you mow your lawn, eventually it will die.
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Brian Jasper co. Ia View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 12:17pm
I finally got the poison oak killed off on my barn. It took mixing Crossbow with diesel fuel to do it. I've been doing what Lars says on some other mulberries. They don't give up very easy...

Edited by Brian Jasper co. Ia - 04 Sep 2012 at 12:19pm
When plunder becomes a way of life for a group of men, they create for themselves in the course of time a legal system that authorizes it and a moral code that glorifies it. Frederic Bastiat
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 1:16pm

I have had good luck with Tordon, and gly's, however, I've found that REALLY BIG mulberries will recover from a Tordon hit, simply because the roots reach out so far, that the tordon does not reach out far enough.

I had one mulberry that had a stump about 50" across. It had been sprouting for years...  I stripped and tordon'd it around the trunk in the early fall... and it totally laughed at me... so about five weeks later, I had the tree company cut it down and take the big pieces away...  stack the leafy branches and small wood in one part of the yard about 30' from the stump.  It took them a few days to do it... by the time they'd gotten the trunk down to ground level, the leaves had turned from green to purple.
 
Then I incinerated the stump
 
I cut both ends out of a 55-gallon barrel, set it on top of the stump... on top of four bricks, so there was an air-gap between stump and barrel.  Threw some dry twigs, sticks and lumber scraps in, and got a fire started... once going, I stuffed the leafy branches in it.  The purple in the branches indicated that the leaves were amidst the anaerobic phase of Kreb's Cycle (noncyclic photophosphorilization)... hence, they were fermenting- creating alcohol.  They spit and hissed, and burned like mad... making the barrel draw LOTS of air at the stump level.  Once it was hot, I started throwing in the cut up branches... 2' pieces... they emitted a wonderful blue flame out the ends... when that barrel gets hot, it becomes translucent- you can see the flames right through the steel... as the water inside the wood flashes to steam, it blasts out an alcohol flame that's intense....
 
the result is intense heat, and incredible air draft at the stump.
 
What happens next, is that the stump becomes a giant wick... the roots keep passing moisture up to the stump, and since there's no leaves, nothing comes back to nourish the roots... and the roots die.  You know you're making progress when the sprouts around your property start to wilt... just keep burning... they'll dry up and die.  It's hard work, but if you've got a big tree, it's worth the effort.
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dipstick In Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 5:25pm
Wow! Dave, that's cool, now I gotta find a mulberry to play with! Maybe next year I wont have purple starling suprise all over the cars! Those things have more output than a goose does.
You don't really have to be smart if you know who is!
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Ted in NE-OH View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted in NE-OH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 5:43pm
I use 1:1 Roundup on grapevines that I cut in the woods. Seems to work.Tongue
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WC7610 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 6:02pm
Have used Crossbow for several years on CRP and fence lines.  This year I used Remedy, only because the Coop didn't have the Crossbow- they told me Remedy was a newer version of same thing. 
 
Now is the perfect time to spray.  To kill tree roots, spray in Sept when the leaves are starting to turn as the tree is taking nutrients to the roots and it will take the poison all the way.  I've heard about the salt thing and rotting in one year- gotta try that.
Thanks



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote patrickmull Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 7:07pm
we have  a right of way cleaning outfit that uses tordon and used oil put it on as soon as you cut the tree
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allischalmerguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 9:40pm
Thanks for the help...I have Mulberries to cut...smaller ones than Daves!
Pastor Mike
It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1942 C, hobby farmer, Pastor in Walford Iowa
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 2012 at 1:12am
I looked up the chemistry for Remedy, Crossbow, and Tordon.

Crossbow is 16.9% triclopyr and 34.4% 2-4D ester.
Remedy is 61.6% triclopyr and some kerosene. MSDS doesn't say how much kerosene.
Tordon is 10.2% picloram and 39.6% 2-4D.

So you can make Crossbow from Remedy and 2-4D.

The Remedy label says for stumps to apply 1 part Remedy to 3 parts oil to the cut stump. Otherwise for brush it suggests a low rate for mulberry, but for late season, like now a higher rate.

My tenant attacked Sumac this year and it came back the first three attacks. He applied a quart of Crossbow one time to a quarter acre where it should have been 4 ounces to the acre. Killed the top, but it sprouted again from the roots. A second pass did the same thing twice. I finally talked him into cutting back to the label strength and now the patch's sprouts are dead. Hitting it with way too much herbicide killed the top before the herbicide could translocate to the roots. Hitting it with the rated rate did get translocated to the roots it now looks like.

Crossbow is about $80 a gallon, Tordon about $32 a quart, and I found something like Remedy for $22 a quart and my tenant has plenty 2-4D to mix with the triclopyr to make a cross bow equivalent.

Mulberry is NOT on the Crossbow or the Tordon label as a controlled species. Its on the Remedy label.

Gerald J.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 2012 at 7:13am
Originally posted by Gerald J. Gerald J. wrote:

Hitting it with way too much herbicide killed the top before the herbicide could translocate to the roots.


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This is one of the reasons why it's good to study a tool one uses, and try to develop an understanding of not so much how, but WHY it works, prior to using it.

From a basic look, we see a splitting maul, and think that if it's sharp, and you swing it hard, it just splits wood... but we forget that it's heavy and blunt, and works because the wood has a natural weakness due to it's grain.

Same goes for chemicals and biology...
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimNearFortWorth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 2012 at 5:31pm
Good topic as we can all pick up on some possible solutions with our own growth issues.
I use Remedy, at the recommended mix, it takes care of 90% of the Mesquite sprouts that reappeared after (somebody?) thought they could just drive over them and grind em up with the cutter. Learned to soak them real good along the trunk and leaves, plus hitting the small stump as soon as it is cut off (30 days after intially traeting).
Larger trees left me wondering as i had been pulling out various types with the 190XT, catching them within two days of a good rain during the winter months so the root ball would come up on most types. As i can only get them up by pulling up to 6-7" diameter trees, I took to using a wood bit on anything 6" or bigger diameter. Bore a 1" hole about 2-3" deep on an angle, then pour a 1/4 cup of straight Remedy in the hole (ASAP) drilled about 3-4' feet above ground. The leaves at the top of a 20-30' tree will start to turn in one week.
Hope to be able to start burn piles around larger trees treated after one year, plus maybe just pushing some 8-10" ones over with the loader after two years.
Worth noting is what I felt was a possible reaction to Remedy after seeing my rubber glove had a hole in it this spring while treating. Rinsed my hand and only remembered the Remedy after coming down with itching sensation all over and it has lasted for months now. Spoke with a number of specialists  with DOW Chemical just this afternoon and was given assurances that Remedy will leave the human system after 2-5 days, after external exposure.
I'll keep using it for both trees/shrubs and general weed control.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TexasAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep 2012 at 11:40am
I use Remedy on mesquites just like Tim, kills them dead.  If it kills a mesquite it will kill anything.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dwayne TX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep 2012 at 1:48pm
I'll cast another vote for Remedy, mixed with diesel.  Must be a Texas thing - I've used it at label strength on mesquites, cat claw,  and salt cedar.  Used it on prickly pear, even though our county agent said it won't work.  Told him not to say that too loud because I didn't want the pear to hear him and come back to life.
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