Allis wd45 cam timing

My brother and i are pulling his allis wd45 and we need to run it a little faster and hotter. I was told to run a 170 governor spring for more rpms and to advance the cam one tooth where it meshs to the crank. IS doing this really going to make a big difference?

if its a bolt on gear . bolt it on to cam drill through cam gear into nose of cam . install a chevy dowl pin into nose of cam like comes in chevy cams . Then purchse the moroso degree bushings .  Enlarge the pilot hole allready drilled into the cam gear for them to fit into and slot the cam gear bolt holes  . The kit comes with bushing in increements of 2 degrees up to 8 degrees depending on which way the offset is to the dowel will depend on if you have advanced it or retard it . The cam turns counter clockwise crank turns clockwise . This is because of a gear on gear if it where a chain the cam would turn the same direction or if it was a odd gear number like a gear drive it would but it doesnt have the third idler gear. Yes I posted and wi read a tooth change is 13 or 14 degrees Wi must have raed it he does alot of searching in my old posts. Seeing that most stock cams are about 116 a ful tooth would get you closer to 104 . the last one i done was came out to 108 with the 8 degree bushing installed but the lines on the gears still matched .To get more you would have to use mopar crank degree keys and machine the crank snout and crank gear to utilise them in conjuction with the cam degree bushing . everytime you advance the  cam more it adds cylinder pressure  and compression makes one lug .hope this helps . I spew alot of real world knowledge onto internet for all .  mitch 

Edited by mlpankey - 17 Jul 2012 at 12:57pm

We hold the degree wheel on with magnets. Works good.

heres a picture of a fellow doing it right i found in his photo bucket heehheee

mlpankey wrote: i wounder whos photobucket it may be ... notice the washer and bolt.

albums/xx26/pankeyc/tractor parts/09240916201.jpg

heres what the bushings looks like

it will run  a whole tooth depending on where the cam is now will depend on how well it will run with a full tooth change  this is effected by regrinds and non matched gear sets . 170 gov spring is a few more rpms depending on the valve springs and where the valve floats at will also depend on how well the engine runs with increased rpms.

I like the duct tape idea, gorilla glue now makes a duct tape, and from what I understand it's suppppper strong.

Rod B wrote: Actually pankey there's a few loopholes in your story. 1 the bushings advance or retard will depend on how far they are positioned from the cam's centerline. Unless installed at the same distance as in the chevy the offset will be different. 2. I'm quite sure wi50 was building these things long before pankey was spilling bs on the internet. Anyonee with basic math skills can count the teeth on the gear and do simple math to know that one tooth is worth 13.8 deg of change. 3. No need to take the crank out of the engine and drill and tap the end. It's easy to make a simple hub to fasten on the crank nose to hold a degree wheel. I have mine tapped to hold the crank pulley bolt to lock it on the crank as it does the front pulley.

chevy cam dowl pin with a chevy 2 degree bushing will move the allis cam 2 degrees if the gears is drilled with the gear bolted on and the marks aligned. the having the gear bolted on and drilling through gear for dowl you must have missed. And most think 60 teeth in a 360 degree circle is 6 degrees but you have to account for lash on both sides of the tooth. Rod we couldnt move the sled in 3500 . the next time out brought home trophies but started at 5000lbs. Cam needed retarded and torque killed to pull 3500

Edited by mlpankey - 19 Jul 2012 at 5:49pm

its real hard for you to understand that the three bolts place the gears timimng mark with the cams ground strait up timing. So when the dowl is drilled with the gear bolted on then the dowl is now locating the mark so the bolt holes can be elongated. Then the engineered degree of bushing used to the located engineere dowl moves the cam that many degrees. you drill the dowl inlign with the bolts  besides the cam flange is only so big in diameter and you need enough meat in cam flange for the dowl to hold gear from slipping once bolt holes are elongated.

Edited by mlpankey - 19 Jul 2012 at 8:06pm

wi50 wrote: Rod is correct, meaning a 4 deg bushing is only worth 4 deg if it's installed at a specific distance from center. Put it closer and it's worth more, further out and it's worth less. Don't install it at a random spot and assume that the cam moved what the bushing was advertised at. Double check. It's simple geometry

We must have done ours perfect 116 centerline 8 degree chevy bushing checked with degree wheel move us 8 degrees for 108. ofcoarse we always strive perfection.

The cam moved 8 degrees with a 8 degree button . Theres nothing wrong with you admitting you can't repeat what I did.  Einstien said everyones a genious but if you judge a fish on its ability to climb a tree it will spend its whole life thinking its stupid.  Its all about ones own abilities.

Knowledge is power and some just install bushings and if it comes up short its just tgat and some rotate the bushing in the gear to try to get all of the bushing.

Rod B wrote: Because the bushing is installed further from center it has less effect than what it was originaly designed for. An 8 deg bushing will move the cam about 6 deg. We can't change the laws of mathmatics or physics. So pannkey is either lying, a poor machinist leaving to much clearance. Or probably just inaccurate measureing. Numbers don't lie, but liars make numbers. If he pays attention here in class his next engine might run.

Earlier I posted that Rod is correct. That is about right as far as an 8 degree chevy bushing moveing the cam timeing 6 degrees. Ir 4 degree bushing moveing it 3 degrees when installed on the allis. The math says it will, and that's been my experiences with useing the bushings because of where they have to be placed in the Allis. I don't use the bushings anymore. I just slot the gear and install the cam and adjust it off the wheel.

But for those of us who can accuratly measure and the ability to think things through we know this. Don't worry Rod, pankey will just keep alienating himself in any thread that has anything to do with engines...... or any thread I post any pictures in.

I know some of the finer details are beyond some of the readers, and simple to understand for others. It's to bad that one of them "spewes bs" on the topics not understood. It may lead others to make mistakes.   

Now here's the real truth. If the orirntation of the bushing was off, the offset that it provides would be even LESS.

Think before posting.