power steering

Im interested in putting power steering on my ca, with a hydraulic ram on the steering arm, and getting a rotatary valve out of something and fitting it on the tractor. Has anyone has experience doing this? Or does someone have a better idea? Ill attach a hydro pump on the hand crank, or run a belt of the pto shaft and put it on that, and make some remote hydro valves while im at it.

Getting junkyard parts isnt an option for me... i live in tasmania Australia and theirs about 20 allis tractors in the state, ill have to use parts from something else. Can rotary valves regulate the flow of oil so that the speed im spining the steering wheel is the same speed the ram is turning the wheels??? I understand most hydraulic principle, but i havnt looked into rotary valves before. 

Use the hydraulic steering assist from a Gleaner combine. It goes in place of the long tie rod and won't change your steering response.

Yes my problem is my steering is very stiff, im jumping ahead to power steering. ill pull the whole steering system out of it and give it a good clean and grease first. Im half doing it just as a project, and also to get some remotes on my tractor.

The hydraulic principles you need to know for hydraulic steering:

1)  Hydraulic steering valves are fixed-displacement devices... that means, when you turn the steering wheel one turn, the valve sends out a certain volume of fluid.  Let's say that for a given brand and model of valve, each turn of the wheel generates 3 cubic inches of displacement.

2) Hydraulic rams come in three varieties:
 a) single acting... hydraulic fluid pushes on one side of the ram piston, it in one direction.  Some other force must push it back.  The amount of fluid required to extend the cylinder, is a function of the area of the piston, and the stroke that it extends.
 b) double-acting... hydraulic fluid pushes on both the front AND back side of the ram piston.  With this type, because of the presence of the ROD on the 'back' side, the amount of fluid required to RETRACT the cylinder, is less than required to EXTEND the cylinder.
 c) Double-acting BALANCED cylinder.  This type of cylinder has a rod that passes ALL the way through... with rod ends on both sides of the cylinder.  By doing this, the rod exists on BOTH sides of the piston, so extension and retraction volume are the same amount.

When developing a hydraulic steering system, you must either use a double-acting BALANCED cylinder, or a PAIR of single or double acting cylinders, so that your number of turns required to go from full left to full right, is the same as going from full right, to full left.

If you're planning on doing hydraulic steering, I advise that you affix one end of the hydraulic ram(s) to the front axle, and the other end to the steering linkage between the wheels.  Installing the ram to push and pull between the drag link and tractor chassis causes the front axle to bang back-and-forth against the axle's pivot pin, causing lots of needless steering slop, and breaking/wearing components that really don't need to be abused.