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CTD03 
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Joined: 11 Jan 2012
Location: Western PA
Points: 490
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 Topic: D17 disking pumpkin patch pics
Posted: 07 Apr 2012 at 11:43pm |
Not sure what disk I have but i am going to show you some disk pics and I would like for all of you to chim in and tell me how to set this disk so it cuts right. I dont think i will bealbe to get barrow a tiller so it going to take some passes to get it how it like to plant pumpkins is. So I hope ya all like.
Edited by CTD03 - 07 Apr 2012 at 11:44pm
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1953CA
Orange Level
Joined: 01 Jan 2011
Location: Burlington, WA
Points: 505
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Posted: 07 Apr 2012 at 11:51pm |
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I would think it's a Model 211, your hitch setup is a bit different than mine.
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1945 AllisCletrac / 1948 "B" / 1953 "CA" / 1955 "WD-45" / 1963 "D-15 Series II"
"No Air Support without Ground Support"
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CTD03
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Joined: 11 Jan 2012
Location: Western PA
Points: 490
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Posted: 07 Apr 2012 at 11:56pm |
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I do need some disks and I would say a rebuild soon but funds are tight so i am doing one thing at a time and the tractor is first I am hoping to get it running right after pumpkin season is done... I have said that for 3 years
Edited by CTD03 - 08 Apr 2012 at 12:09am
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Eldon (WA)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Spokane, WA
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Posted: 08 Apr 2012 at 12:16am |
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200 series with the traction booster hitch. I spent many hours pulling a 212 (12 foot wide) with a WD45 diesel as a kid....you need to have the transport valve on the tractor in order for it to work right. You should be able to set the height of the sc tongue by using the crank on the disc and not a jack when hitching it up......then level out the disc once it is hooked up. We always ran the front a little deeper than the rear for the first pass, then leveled it out for the finish pass.
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CTD03
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Joined: 11 Jan 2012
Location: Western PA
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Posted: 08 Apr 2012 at 10:09am |
 Eldon (WA) wrote:
200 series with the traction booster hitch. I spent many hours pulling a 212 (12 foot wide) with a WD45 diesel as a kid....you need to have the transport valve on the tractor in order for it to work right. You should be able to set the height of the sc tongue by using the crank on the disc and not a jack when hitching it up......then level out the disc once it is hooked up. We always ran the front a little deeper than the rear for the first pass, then leveled it out for the finish pass. |
thank you for your info on setting up the disk. were is the transport valve located? not sure what your talking about. I will have to go see if th manual has this. I dont think thats the same as the traction booster is it?
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Eldon (WA)
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Posted: 08 Apr 2012 at 10:36am |
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The transport valve was an optional box (with a knob on it that screws in or out) on the back of the tractor between the tractor hydraulics and the implement lift cylinder hose. It was necesarry in order for the traction booster drawbar to work properly. The purpose was to force the lift arms to raise before the hydraulic cylinder so that you got the weight transfer without lifting the disc out of the ground.
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CTD03
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Location: Western PA
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Posted: 08 Apr 2012 at 9:21pm |
well today nothing much happened just waiting for the right time of year to start planting pumpkins my sunflower garden is almost ready for me to start planting at the end of april.
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Ryan Renko
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edwardsville, I
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Posted: 08 Apr 2012 at 9:33pm |
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We had the same disc on our farm and our loving father gave it away to someone when we upgraded to something newer. It was a cherry. I need to go tell dad that the things he gave away 20 years ago are worth allot of money now!!! Ryan
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Eldon (WA)
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Posted: 08 Apr 2012 at 10:17pm |
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Ours was still sitting in the trees back in South Dakota last time I checked. TB drawbar had been removed when we bought a JD 720D and didn't need it anymore. Last I saw it was laying out in the pasture. Disc was well used over the years, welded up in a number of places and the serrated front discs are worn to round....don't think it is worth much anymore....I guess I should take the good bearings off of it before my brother scraps it.
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b170dr
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Joined: 05 Feb 2012
Location: Gays Mills Wi
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Posted: 08 Apr 2012 at 11:07pm |
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I've got a 200-14ft i use as my only disc. Have a set of D-17 wheel weights on each side up front and a rock box built over the disc sections,has several hundred pounds of rock on it. Got 20 inch blades, realy cuts, There a great finish disc,with three section harrow behind. I'd like to find a 18ft 200,but you have to get farther south to find them, or go up in the cold country bouve the border. Just keep playing with that disc. I'd put a two sedtion drag behind, realy help bust up those claudes of dirt.
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'64 B-10, '58 D-14, '60 D-15D, '58 D-17D, D-19, 170, 2-185D, 190, 68 D-21 11, 72-220, 7000,7030, F-2 G,w/5 Heads,L-2 G, 330 No-Till
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Eldon (WA)
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Posted: 08 Apr 2012 at 11:26pm |
b170dr wrote:
I've got a 200-14ft i use as my only disc. Have a set of D-17 wheel weights on each side up front and a rock box built over the disc sections,has several hundred pounds of rock on it. Got 20 inch blades, realy cuts, There a great finish disc,with three section harrow behind. I'd like to find a 18ft 200,but you have to get farther south to find them, or go up in the cold country bouve the border. Just keep playing with that disc. I'd put a two sedtion drag behind, realy help bust up those claudes of dirt. |
The 200 series was only available up to 15'. The 2000 series looks the same, but was available in 18.5 and 20'. Here is a pic of my 2000 series 20' before I put the hitch back on after moving it....it is missing the gangs on the wings, so is only around 13' now. Not too bad of a disc for $150.
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